I ordered and received speedbleeders. they are a special one-way bleeding screw for brakes. you need 4 of them and they allow one person to bleed the brakes to perfection. also makes it easy to pump out old brake fluid and install new at the same time. they have a one-way valve that lets fluid out but keeps air from getting in. If you like to keep your brake fluid fresh and working, the speedbleeders make it much easier job and your wife doesn't have to come out and pump the brakes - domestic tranquility. Anyway, speedbleeder didn't know the size but guessed 10mm with a thread every milimeter. It was right on. part number 1010. They are a little longer but still go under the original bleeder cap which is what I recommend. the speedbleeder supplied caps are hard to get off once on. the original bleeder screws need a 10mm wrench but the speedbleeder screws use a 3/8's so make sure you change wrenches and not round off the bleeder. I installed mine today in preparation for installing the SS brake lines from crown which I also received this week. pumped up a big fat pedal with the bleeding and I'm done modding for the day. juma
oooh nice, I was looking at the CST lines (but cheaper, directly from the guys who make them) and I was not sure what I wanted to do with the juice. Are you changing to DOT 3 fluid or keeping whats in there...?
oooh nice, I was looking at the CST lines (but cheaper, directly from the guys who make them) and I was not sure what I wanted to do with the juice. Are you changing to DOT 3 fluid or keeping whats in there...?
I'm keeping dot3 fluid until i get hoses in and working. there is much fluid to be lost in putting in the hoses, so i don't want to be putting in the expensive stuff till its all together and working for a few weeks. I've found with hoses, you don't want to make the job more complicated by doing something else at the same time. just for info, ford brake fluid is about the highest quality dot 3 there is on the planet. for dot 4, I like ATE in gold or blue. it comes in both colors so you can alternate and be able to tell when the new fluid is coming through.
I am concerned that if I change fluid & lines, this will just enable me to warp the rotors more efficiently (due to inadequacy of the calipers, rotors and/or pads), and then the dealer might attribute the problems to the brake mods. Any thoughts on this?
I am concerned that if I change fluid & lines, this will just enable me to warp the rotors more efficiently (due to inadequacy of the calipers, rotors and/or pads), and then the dealer might attribute the problems to the brake mods. Any thoughts on this?
well I have absolutely reduced torque on the lugnuts to 87 as recommended by jettech. i feel it is the combination of too much torque and hot rotors that causes warping. as with jettech, all is well so far. I have seen this in the past on the chevy impala forum where many had warped rotors from too much torque.
I guess if the dealer noticed the hoses they might try to raise that issue. They shouldn't be able too make that charge but they might and I doubt there would be much recourse. I don't believe it is likely they will make that connection and I gotta have good braking. I feel it is way more the likely that the guy checking your rotors will be thinking about what kind of beer he is going to drink that nite and not even notice the brake lines.
this really isn't much in the way of brake mods -- on the impala caprices we were taking the master cylinder apart and machining new orifices and adjusting the balance by removing springs and other internals.
another thing to keep in mind is what we are trying to achieve - autocross braking or one-stop. I feel the brakes are adequate for the one stop emergency and I just want to be able to do that to the max. repeated hard pull downs as though roadracing are not on my agenda.
the only other thing I'll ever do is get auto specialty rotors if they ever make them for the titan. they always spec'd out 2-3 pounds more than stock and that extra metal made a better heat sink. juma
oooh nice, I was looking at the CST lines (but cheaper, directly from the guys who make them) and I was not sure what I wanted to do with the juice. Are you changing to DOT 3 fluid or keeping whats in there...?
Cheaper always gets my interest. Do you have a $ figure and contact info or anything specific?
I would add one fact on speedbleeders. of the 20 I have bought, one did not work in that it leaked even when tighten down very snug. this was on a nissan altima. what it is, is that the bottom of the screw is not cut exact and a little fluid seeps out. you will know if you have this defect because after a little real driving it will blow the rubber bleeder boot off. after you install, check the boot and the brake fluid level every day for the first few days. If you have a leaker, put your old one back on and call speedbleeder for a free replacement. have your invoice number handy. they will rush it too you. juma
Hey Juma, where did you order the hoses and the speedbleeders from? Thanks.
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04 LE CC 4x4 w/o Off-Road, Big Tow. Built 12/05/03. Drop in K&N Air Filter, XM Sat. Radio, Clear Headlamp/Fog Light Protector, 2.5" Pre-Runner Lift, SS Brake Lines, 20" Centerline Stingrays III, 305/55-R20 Toyo Open Country A/T, Billet Grill, Truxedo Lo-Profile. Air Lift Kit Rear.
Well, now that I have a new job with consistent weekends off, I have time to change out my lines to the stainless I ordered a couple of months ago. While I'm at it, I'm going to put in some Speedbleeders, and plan on ordering them early next week (by Monday) so I can have them next weekend.
Based on the above info, I'm ordering P/N: SB1010. Does everyone still agree that this is the best fitting valve to use?
juma, you mentioned in the first post that they are a little long. Would P/N: SB1010S work better? They are about 1/8" shorter.
Also, Are the stainless steel bleeders worth the doubled price -- $60 for the set vs. $28 for the set?
Thanks for the help.
Part Number Thread Size Overall Length
in. (mm)
SB6100 #...........M6 X 1.0..........1.13, (28.80)
SB7100S #.........M7 X 1.0..........1.19, (30.22)
SB7100 #...........M7 X 1.0..........1.38, (35.15)
SB8100 #...........M8 X 1.0..........1.28, (35.54)
SB8125..............M8 X 1.25.........1.10, (27.99)
SB8125L #..........M8 X 1.25........1.28, (32.54)
SB8125LL...........M8 X 1.25.........1.50, (38.09)
SB1010S #.........M10 X 1.0.........1.23, (31.35)
SB1010 #...........M10 X 1.0.........1.35, (34.44)
SB10125 #.........M10 X 1.25........1.35, (32.44)
SB1015 #...........M10 X 1.5.........1.35, (32.44)
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Last edited by Titan4x4Aggie : 04-23-2005 at 04:28 PM.
Seems the speedbleeder website recommends the SB1010 for most of the Nissan vehicles, and if the 1010S was better, it would be recommended. I'm guessing the 1010 is the better one.
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07-31-2004, 09:56 AM
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