Alignment??

[jd1973]

I'm getting a tad upset/frustrated. I have a problem with what I believe has to be alignment related. Every tire put on the front left wears on the inside and develops chops. Rattles my teeth after a while. I have had numerous alignments (both at the dealer and other shops) and everything checks out. Ditto for baalancing. Dealer is confused to say the least. Any ideas????

SE 4x2 with OEM 18" Goodyears

[Austin]

Toe in will wear the outside of a tire's tread, while toe out will wear the inside of a tire's tread.

The toe spec on the Titan .1", +/- .1". That's pretty much zero toe, so you shouldn't be experiencing any inside/outside tread wear if you're aligned properly. So, two possibilities - either the machine they're using to align your truck is malfunctioning (which is doubtful), or your dynamic alignment differs from your static alignment quite a bit.

What that means is that, while your truck is on the alignment rack, it is adjusted to the spec of .1" toe in. When you're driving your truck, the tire toe out (and wears the inside of the tread) due to road force and a worn or loose component. Could be the steering rack itself or one of the tie rods, maybe even one of the ball joints.

With properly adjusted and equal toe in/toe out on both sides, your steering wheel will be (should be) straight while driving straight, or possibly just a bit to the left to compensate for road crown if you're driving on a crowned road.

Is your steering wheel straight while driving straight? Does it ever seem to change positions?

[jd1973]

Appreciate the info. I'm inclined to agree with the dynamic vs static alignment differences. I will ask my dealer to take a closer look at the associated parts. They are pretty easy going so it shouldn't be a problem. The steering wheel is centered and there is no movement.
JD

[Austin]

If you're looking yourself, look at all rubber boots on that side. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod end, CV shaft. Check the wheel bearing for any play.

Once a rubber boot around a joint rips, the joint is toast. It may last for a while, but even if you only drive your truck on the road, a torn boot lets road grime in. That road grime mixes with the grease and will eat away at the joint. If you ever hear a joint clunking, it's definitely time to be replaced.

[jd1973]

In my experience sloppy bearings normally should not damage just the inside area of the tire. Seems the wheel would be sloppy and eat the tire in all areas. I suspect either the tie rods or ball joints. Maybe even a bad/bent shock mount?

I'll check the truck out this upcoming week at the dealer. Let them do the work under warranty.

Great insight on this issue (PROBLEM). Appreciate all the help.
JD

[Austin]

Originally Posted by jd1973

In my experience sloppy bearings normally should not damage just the inside area of the tire. Seems the wheel would be sloppy and eat the tire in all areas. I suspect either the tie rods or ball joints. Maybe even a bad/bent shock mount?

With independent suspension (such as the front of the Titan), the drive wheels will tend to toe in when given power. On non-driven wheels, road force (drag and inertia, refer to Newton's first law) will tend to toe out the wheels. So, any slop in the suspension or joints will allow greater toe-out than designed for.

Manufacturers usually set alignment specifications for minimum tire wear. Minimum tire wear is acheived with zero toe - when the wheel is pointed in a direct straight line with the direction of travel. Because road force tends to toe out a wheel, the Titan's static alignment calls for some toe-in - that way, when the truck is actually moving, the resulting net toe will be zero (ideally).

Here are the OEM alignment specifications for the Titan:


As you can see, even at the minimum allowed toe-in, there should still be 1.8mm of toe in.

[jd1973]

Excellent information. I am armed with the knowledge to have the dealer run around in circles this weekend.