I know that bigger is better and bigger pads = better stopping and all that...but if I put 22" wheels with a 305/45R22 tire which is the same rolling diameter as my stock 18's with 265/70R18 tires then how is that more stress on my rotors and pads when coming to a stop? I wouldn't guess the weight to be more since the tire is smaller and the wheel may weigh more but wouldn't it all kinda wash with the OEM setup? Now the look of a small rotor my be visually out of wack with a big open wheel, but that is just looks. Again, I know what all will come back with, but again, on paper what's the difference? Maybe I'm just tired and need to clear my mind, but I was just thinking about this while I was online looking at wheels for my Titan.
Look at the manufacturer's specifications for the wheels/tire weights and compare. It might be a bigger difference than you think, or not. I really don't know since I don't have experience with "big" wheels.
I'm no expert but I've searched a bit on the internet. From what I've read, here are couple of points:
1. metal weighs more than rubber so more metal and less rubber usually means more total weight. I'm sure there're exceptions to this as forged wheels are very light. Certain offroad tires like all-terrain and mud-terrain with multiple steel plies may weigh more than other tires of the same size.
2. weight on tires and wheels are different from weight on other parts of the vehicle. When tires and wheels spin, weight multiplies (rotating mass). I'm not certain by what factor but I've read anywhere from 2x to a whopping 8x! So worse case, extra 10 lbs of weight on each wheel/tire becomes 320 lbs of extra static weight for the brakes to handle (10 x 4 x 8 = 320).
Again, these are from my own research on the internet and I have no prior personal experience so I could be way off.
I have 22's and there's definitely more rotational mass. they're also much more heavier than stock. It's a PITA to load and unload them in the bed.
as far as braking i would say there's definitely a difference in stopping. I can't guage how much much definitely noticeble. I have the tsg on the rotors for judder and about 3k-4k so far and seems to be fine.
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formerly owned ....04 CC LE 4x2 Big Tow,Smoke, Custom Axis Crewe black 22x10 w/ 325/50/22 Kumho Road Venture AT, Bushwacker flares, CST 8inch lift, DR coilovers, rear Bilsteins, PRG traction bars,Webasto Panoramic moonroof, Volan Gen3 CAI, PowerAid TB spacer, BMW X5 bixenon HID and smoke painted headlights,Volant Vulite LED taillights, B-cool black powdercoated grills and bumpers, 20% tint on front side windows, Retrax bedcover, powerdercoated smoke Lund SS bugguard ,XE black door handles, Alpine W200 doubledin+H701 processor,OEM nav bezel w/ 7" touchscreen,Elegonics custom fiberglass box,2 6inch headrest monitors, Seas Lotus Reference comps (front stage),CDT EF61(rear fill), Brax 2400.2 amp for highs,Brax X2000 amp for subs,OK i'm tired......
I know that bigger is better and bigger pads = better stopping and all that...but if I put 22" wheels with a 305/45R22 tire which is the same rolling diameter as my stock 18's with 265/70R18 tires then how is that more stress on my rotors and pads when coming to a stop? I wouldn't guess the weight to be more since the tire is smaller and the wheel may weigh more but wouldn't it all kinda wash with the OEM setup? Now the look of a small rotor my be visually out of wack with a big open wheel, but that is just looks. Again, I know what all will come back with, but again, on paper what's the difference? Maybe I'm just tired and need to clear my mind, but I was just thinking about this while I was online looking at wheels for my Titan.
Thanks,
Not much.
Bottomline is the new redesigned rotors are more than enough for braking. Think of it this way, these brakes are large enough for towing 9k, they can handle your rims. You can go bigger for looks, but it isn't necessary. Just remember not one maker of drilled rotors offers a warranty as they crack. If you want to get bigger rotors, get plain or slotted. Slotted will vent a little better, and also cause more dust and pad wear. Coatings are gone after 100 miles on the braking surface but usually remain elsewhere.
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Bottomline is the new redesigned rotors are more than enough for braking. Think of it this way, these brakes are large enough for towing 9k, they can handle your rims. You can go bigger for looks, but it isn't necessary. Just remember not one maker of drilled rotors offers a warranty as they crack. If you want to get bigger rotors, get plain or slotted. Slotted will vent a little better, and also cause more dust and pad wear. Coatings are gone after 100 miles on the braking surface but usually remain elsewhere.
That is exactly what I was thinking, the rotors are made for a high towing capacity and I don't really tow anything and won't be for a few years, so I shouldn't have to change the rotors. I got into this discussion with a friend at work after talking about supersizing my wheels and he suggested new rotors. The wheels I want won't show much if any of the rotor, so appearance isn't a concern. Thanks for the replies...
To be sure you need to check the weights of your existing wheel/tire combo and the wheel/tire combo you're looking to purchase. Overall weight is one consideration, the other is how that weight is distributed. Larger wheel/tire combos have more mass farther away from the axis of rotation, which equates to more inertia. This makes it harder to get them turning, and once turning harder to get them to stop. If you go with a 20"+ combo you will lose braking power. Is it enough to concern you? I don't know, only you can make that determination.
10-09-2005, 06:04 PM
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