Had a recent "incident" with puncturing one of the stock tires beyond repair. This has placed me in a search for new wheels and tires. I have a couple of ideas. Truck has SAW coilovers/TC UCAs in front @ 3.75" of lift on a 4X4, no rear lift as of yet, just shocks. Current ideas are as follows:
2. ProComp 1079s 18X9 -6mm offset/4.75" BS wrapped with BFG AT 305/65-18 (=33.7)
Ultimately I would like a simple looking wheel with the optional simulated beadlock ring like the PC 1079 that will fit and not stick out real far. Have also considered AR Mojave and Mickey Thompson Classic Lock. Need some guidance. Need to make a decision in the next couple days. I mainly chose the 17" route due to the high price of 18" tires. For the same price of just the 18" tires I could get new wheels AND tires in 17s. So help me out here wheel gods. What will work without spacers and grinding and all that. Minor rubbing that can be resolved by taking down the pinch weld is acceptable.
1. If you need nobbies. BFG 315/70/17s if you just want a good offroad tire that will ride good on the road.
__________________ 2007 White with Charcoal/Titanium interior SE CC 4x4 with off road, tow, SE popular with bench, and utility bed package with sliding bed extender
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1. If you need nobbies. BFG 315/70/17s if you just want a good offroad tire that will ride good on the road.
Good suggestion, because even though BFG calls those a 315mm width tire, the BFG specs. state they are more like a 305mm, (34.5x12x17). Some even run those on the stock off road rims with just a PRG level kit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricepow
...that will fit and not stick out real far. ...Minor rubbing that can be resolved by taking down the pinch weld is acceptable.
The 9" -6mm offset rims will stick out 55mm, (2 inches), more than the off road rims. Probably a lot more stress on steering, wheel bearings, etc. by have the weight move out from the OEM location, especially if you off road.
Too avoid rubbing the the best backspacing is the OEM ~5 1/2". To get this the OEM 8x18 have a +25mm offset, and the OEM off road 7.5x17 alloys have a +30mm offset.
7.5" rims need a +31mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +24mm.
8" rims need a +25mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +18mm.
8.5" rims need a +18mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +12mm.
9" rims need a +12mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, but I would never run a 9" rim.
10" rims need a 0mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, but I would never run a 10" rim.
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Jeez. What a headache. Are there any rims out there that I am missing? I was considering the American Racing Mojaves. Or are these just as bad? 17X8 0mm offset 4.5" BS. You can kinda see the route Im heading with the style of wheel I would prefer. Any suggestions?
The MB Razor from Discount. It comes in a 8.5"x17 with a +25mm offset. So they stick in more by 1/4". One guy stated his rubbed and he sent them back, but I had Discount mount one a week or so back when I was getting a rotation. They fit on my Titan with at least 3/4" clearance to the knuckle. They don't have fake bead locks though.
Oh and the Mojaves, although they will stick out an inch more, they will at least be way better than those 9" rims.
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Re: Will this work?
I got some P.C. wheels with the same numbers and P.C. 305/65/17 extreme a/ts and only get a slight rub at full turn in reverse. If I took off those little mud flaps it would stop. I love the way it all looks. Hope that helps at all.
Have you considered my wheels? Well not mine in particular but Centerline Tomahawk Champ XLs? They're forged aluminum, light and have the perfect BS/offset (IMHO). They just barely stick out. Search for my posts if you're interested I've taken plenty of pics of them.
Oh yeah, if I were you I'd go w/ a 35" tire (or something close like aqua recommended), I went with a 33" tire first and even w/ just my Donahoes set at 2" I thought they looked small. You'll end up wanting a 35, trust me.
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Have you considered my wheels? Well not mine in particular but Centerline Tomahawk Champ XLs? They're forged aluminum, light and have the perfect BS/offset (IMHO). They just barely stick out. Search for my posts if you're interested I've taken plenty of pics of them.
Oh yeah, if I were you I'd go w/ a 35" tire (or something close like aqua recommended), I went with a 33" tire first and even w/ just my Donahoes set at 2" I thought they looked small. You'll end up wanting a 35, trust me.
The centerline look fairly good for offset for an 8" at +12mm, 5" backspacing so they will stick out only half an inch. But aren't those the ones that Sammy Sandbag had breakup on him? Edit: No they were Centerline Tomahawk. Check out his thread, (think I'll avoid that brand): Catastrophic Wheel Failure (w/ Pics)
Good suggestion, because even though BFG calls those a 315mm width tire, the BFG specs. state they are more like a 305mm, (34.5x12x17). Some even run those on the stock off road rims with just a PRG level kit!
The 9" -6mm offset rims will stick out 55mm, (2 inches), more than the off road rims. Probably a lot more stress on steering, wheel bearings, etc. by have the weight move out from the OEM location, especially if you off road.
Too avoid rubbing the the best backspacing is the OEM ~5 1/2". To get this the OEM 8x18 have a +25mm offset, and the OEM off road 7.5x17 alloys have a +30mm offset.
7.5" rims need a +31mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +24mm.
8" rims need a +25mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +18mm.
8.5" rims need a +18mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, most I'd move them out is to +12mm.
9" rims need a +12mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, but I would never run a 9" rim.
10" rims need a 0mm offset for a 5 1/2" backspacing, but I would never run a 10" rim.
.
Because it isn't necessary to to go that wide with the majority of tires, even 35s. So why add the extra weight? And because they stick out more, they are more likely to cause rubbing, especially with 35s and with offset less than +12mm, (which most of them have).
A good example of a big agressive looking tire on just a 17 x 7 1/2 inch rim is in the post just before yours. Yellomantis' Titan looks great in his current sig pic. A 9" rim would flatten the sidewall bulge as well.
Think I may have just had a breakthrough. SInce I am having such a terrible time deciding on some rims Im thinking about just getting some tires for the stock rims. Did a search on Tirerack and Discount and found that those tires you have yellomantis are also available in a 35X12.50-18 for $232 a pop. Ive liked the way those have looked since I seen yours. I think I may go with those for now and consider rims later. Those really made your truck look nice and agressive. What do you guys think? 34.8" diameter, 12.5" section width. Should clear with removing the mud flaps eh?
Think I may have just had a breakthrough. SInce I am having such a terrible time deciding on some rims Im thinking about just getting some tires for the stock rims. Did a search on Tirerack and Discount and found that those tires you have yellomantis are also available in a 35X12.50-18 for $232 a pop. Ive liked the way those have looked since I seen yours. I think I may go with those for now and consider rims later. Those really made your truck look nice and agressive. What do you guys think? 34.8" diameter, 11.8" section width. Should clear with removing the mud flaps eh?
Wow, the rep at the CORR races said that size wouldn't be available till next year.... Right on man! These tires kick @$$......
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2006 4X4 LE OR CST 7" Lift, RadFlo 2.5 coilovers, PRG Uppers, RadFlo 2.0 rears, Deaver 2.5 mini pack, 3" custom block, PRG traction bars, TC HD rear shackles, 2* advance, Custom Supertrapp exhaust, XE mirror covers and door handles, 17X8 AR Mojave Teflon's, 35/12.50R17 Toyo Mud Terrains, Bushwacker fender flares.
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