Ok so here is the deal. I have a 04 4x4 Titan with 4" lift, 20" wheels and bfg A/t, Billy Boat exhaust, JBA headers, AFE Stage II Intake. Those are the basics. All work was done by a professional shop and has always been dealer serviced at all intervals. Ok now to the problem. I have had the truck for 6 months and have put 7k on it for a total of 57k. There is a vibration??? feels like going over speed humps when you are at any speed above 30mph and are just giving enough gas to maintain that speed. Kind of like it is chugging or not getting enough rpms. 45mph the rpms are a little over 1k when cruising. this has been going on for a couple of months. Gas mileage has also gone down since I got the truck. The last issue happened last week while I was on the highway at 70mph. I floored to make a pass and it dropped a gear and revved to 4K where it sounded and felt like it was bouncing off the rev limiter. Almost felt like the transmission was slipping . This would only happen when I went WOT. If I rolled on the throttle and only went about halfway it was fine. It did it again the next day on the highway while on a on-ramp. I was doing 45 and punched it and the revs went to about 4K and it did gain any rpms just bounced at around 4K. Well a semi was next to me with traffic behind and I almost got pummeled because the damn semi driver accelerated. Since I can't have things like this happening on a regular basis I made an appointment and took it to the dealer today. they had it all day and called me this evening to tell me that all of the issues were caused by the AFE intake. They said that it is running very rich and that the AF ratio was reading around 75%. They said no codes related to transmission or engine. They also said trans fluid was a little dirty but not excessively. I am having them go ahead and flush it as it is close to the 60K interval. Now the dealer says that will not fix the problem. They say that all of this is caused by the intake. Intake has been on for about 4 months. They said that it was throwing the computer off and causing the rich situation. I run a minimum of 89 octane but usually run 93. 93 is not always avail in my area. has anyone else out there experienced this type of issue? anyone have an opinion on this situation. I researched the intake for over 2 months and chose AFE because of the reviews I read. I purchased it from 4wheel parts and installed myself. Only part not professionally installed but I have above average mechanical knowledge. Please help as I have a rental and it has to be back Friday...also going broke paying for it and might still have to pay for repairs....plus I just want my damn truck back. any help appreciated. If you need any more information to make a judgement or opinion just ask. i will be on this site the rest of tonight and all day tomorrow if I need to be.
NEED HELP QUICK!!!! Dealer say intake is problem!!
Lizard
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Ok so here is the deal. I have a 04 4x4 Titan with 4" lift, 20" wheels and bfg A/t, Billy Boat exhaust, JBA headers, AFE Stage II Intake. Those are the basics. All work was done by a professional shop and has always been dealer serviced at all intervals. Ok now to the problem. I have had the truck for 6 months and have put 7k on it for a total of 57k. There is a vibration??? feels like going over speed humps when you are at any speed above 30mph and are just giving enough gas to maintain that speed. Kind of like it is chugging or not getting enough rpms. 45mph the rpms are a little over 1k when cruising. this has been going on for a couple of months. Gas mileage has also gone down since I got the truck. The last issue happened last week while I was on the highway at 70mph. I floored to make a pass and it dropped a gear and revved to 4K where it sounded and felt like it was bouncing off the rev limiter. Almost felt like the transmission was slipping . This would only happen when I went WOT. If I rolled on the throttle and only went about halfway it was fine. It did it again the next day on the highway while on a on-ramp. I was doing 45 and punched it and the revs went to about 4K and it did gain any rpms just bounced at around 4K. Well a semi was next to me with traffic behind and I almost got pummeled because the damn semi driver accelerated. Since I can't have things like this happening on a regular basis I made an appointment and took it to the dealer today. they had it all day and called me this evening to tell me that all of the issues were caused by the AFE intake. They said that it is running very rich and that the AF ratio was reading around 75%. They said no codes related to transmission or engine. They also said trans fluid was a little dirty but not excessively. I am having them go ahead and flush it as it is close to the 60K interval. Now the dealer says that will not fix the problem. They say that all of this is caused by the intake. Intake has been on for about 4 months. They said that it was throwing the computer off and causing the rich situation. I run a minimum of 89 octane but usually run 93. 93 is not always avail in my area. has anyone else out there experienced this type of issue? anyone have an opinion on this situation. I researched the intake for over 2 months and chose AFE because of the reviews I read. I purchased it from 4wheel parts and installed myself. Only part not professionally installed but I have above average mechanical knowledge. Please help as I have a rental and it has to be back Friday...also going broke paying for it and might still have to pay for repairs....plus I just want my damn truck back. any help appreciated. If you need any more information to make a judgement or opinion just ask. i will be on this site the rest of tonight and all day tomorrow if I need to be.
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Bump Bump...anybody that can help this man? I'm not sure...wish I could. Hope you figure it out and get her back on the road soon.
good suggestion....keep them coming. I tightened everything on the intake about 100-150 miles after install. and then again at last oil change...500 miles ago. will try again when I get the truck back.
One more thing...was just talking to a friend with a Lightning (I used to have one) He asked how I knew I had headers. I was given somewhat of a list of items done to the truck and that was one of them. i also found the reciept for the exhaust and the headers in some paperwork...so just assuming it was installed. He also asked if it was chipped. Not to my knowledge...no computer work done as far as I know. He found that odd with the combo of exhaust/headers/intake I am running....any basis to this train of thought. also how can I tell for sure that I have headers installed????
One more thing...was just talking to a friend with a Lightning (I used to have one) He asked how I knew I had headers. I was given somewhat of a list of items done to the truck and that was one of them. i also found the reciept for the exhaust and the headers in some paperwork...so just assuming it was installed. He also asked if it was chipped. Not to my knowledge...no computer work done as far as I know. He found that odd with the combo of exhaust/headers/intake I am running....any basis to this train of thought. also how can I tell for sure that I have headers installed????
Been under the truck for 2 oil changes and have seen the headers but it's the first time I have been under a titan so not sure what they are supposed to look like. anyone out there have a pic of stock and then modified. Will do a search for them. When I get truck back I can take pics of underneath.
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34,477 Posts
Just like bbomar said above, headers will be easy to tell. Just look up there and see!
Anything about uprev in your paperwork? It really is possible that with your mods that you are running rich!! The only way to get the full potential out of your mods would be with something like uprev.
Odd that it just started it though. Check your connections like suggested and try the reset!
Anything about uprev in your paperwork? It really is possible that with your mods that you are running rich!! The only way to get the full potential out of your mods would be with something like uprev.
Odd that it just started it though. Check your connections like suggested and try the reset!
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Look here at JBA's site, there are pics on there. http://www.jbaheaders.com/
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1,429 Posts
I think I know what your problem is. For the 75% ratio, it is the intake. The oil on the filter fogged up the MAF and its not reading the air right so the computer is basicly guessing how much air is coming in. All you gotta do is get carburettor cleaner and spray it on the MAF and wipe it off with a Q-tip. Now for the 4K redline thing..........I had the same exact problem as you about a week ago. Its a cat. Its choking the engine and not letting the exhaust to escape, the cat should be covered under warrenty.
OK nothing about UREV in the paperwork I have. is this just a co. to do a flash on your ecu? Will have to check under the truck when I get it back for the headers.
Question if it does not have headers and is just running a exhaust and intake can it still be running rich?
Question if it does not have headers and is just running a exhaust and intake can it still be running rich?
OK so now it is killing me not having my truck here to check things out and try some of these suggestions but i think that I am going to just pick it up tomorrow and start going down this list. Any other suggestions......
Reset = disconnecting battery for more than 15 minutes???correct?
Reset = disconnecting battery for more than 15 minutes???correct?
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Lizard said:
Your gonna have to replace the cats also. There could be more than one bad cat.
Will investigate the cats further when I get it back. The reset was not the only option I am considering...it was more of a question to confirm haow to reset. I think I will start with a process of elimination...MAF fix....reset...cats...etc
BTW thanks for everyones help. Keep the suggestions coming if you think there are more issues. I will be on tomorrow after I pick the truck up with updates for this thread.
BTW thanks for everyones help. Keep the suggestions coming if you think there are more issues. I will be on tomorrow after I pick the truck up with updates for this thread.
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Lizard!!! Here is how to reset you ECU...........
Resetting your ECU
Resets to factory settings. Also clears some error codes that pop after a CAI or Stereo install.
Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple (or more) tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
9. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Reset the AirBag light (For you audio installers)
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.
Resetting your ECU
Resets to factory settings. Also clears some error codes that pop after a CAI or Stereo install.
Give it a try, but be patient....it may take a couple (or more) tries with your stopwatch to get it right.....timing is extremely important here!
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
9. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Reset the AirBag light (For you audio installers)
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.
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1,429 Posts
Lizard said:
Yea, you can PM since I have experienced both of those problems and I can help you out.
OK just a couple of more questions...
I have not had a CEL light come on at all during this entire ordeal. Should I still attempt a reset?
Can Dealer reset ecu? Plugin or something?
Cats under warranty...will talk to dealer but is it still covered with my modifications....anyone with experience on this?
If I clean the MAF won't it foul again using the same filter?
I have not had a CEL light come on at all during this entire ordeal. Should I still attempt a reset?
Can Dealer reset ecu? Plugin or something?
Cats under warranty...will talk to dealer but is it still covered with my modifications....anyone with experience on this?
If I clean the MAF won't it foul again using the same filter?
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