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mopar

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Finally thanks to a good tax return I'll be lifting the Titan w/Procomp Today any pointers or Suggestions?
 
Greg posted this a while back...
PrerunnerGreg said:
2wd will save about 1-2 hrs. we just did a basic PC kit yesterday and it took just over 4 hrs but we did a mini-lift and had to run for brake fluid during that time too. Here are some tips.
1. pre assemble everything you can
2. spread the tabs that hold the rear diff mount, they are always a bit too close and it makes sliding the diff into it a pain.
3.the brake caliper bolts are tough, you may need to use a small propane torch as this will greatly ease the locktite.
4.as you remove bolts, put them together with the nut and use a permanent marker to write on the bolt where it came from, ei; lower ball joint, lower shock, etc. Even though they look the same the nuts and bolt lengths are pretty specific. also note the direction they were mounted, which end points forward, etc.
5.use a flare nut wrench on the brake lines, if you dont have one, buy it before you start (10 and 8 mm). Have brake fluid to replenish the res.
6.Be vary careful of the wheel speed sensors, we wrap them in foam padding and put them up out of the way to keep them protected. Its not cheap to replace them.
7.Grind the tabs (little punch tabs on the stock sheet metal to locate the lower arm during assembly at the factory) on the lower a-arm mounts before attempting to install the subframes, these often get in the way and make it very difficult to line up the bolt holes.
8. the rear is pretty simple, use a grease to make pressing the shock bushings in easier. and watch the abs/brake lines.
9 grind the sterring stops about 1/4".
10.The coil spacer studs are never straight, put a nut on and tap them striaght with a hammer before you start. Also, its easiest to open the three holes up to about 1/2" before even tring to slide the studs through. This will make mounting AND dissassmebly easier.
That was taken from this thread:
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-suspension/46416-pro-comp-lift-install-time.html

Hope that helps. You might want to call Greg if you have any specific questions.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
how do you get the hubs off the old spindles?
 
how do you get the hubs off the old spindles?
First wash them down with some pb blaster. Next unbolt them from the spindles, third beat the crap out of them with a rubber mallet.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
One tip is be careful with you sledgehammer more dangerous than you think. over 9 hours and 9 stitches and I am only 1/2 way done with the front and I had to go and get my hubs pressed at sears
 

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WHOA, holy crap!!! You ok bro? That looks really nasty
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I hope you got the stitches before you went to Sears. That looks painful. I hope you're okay.
Nope kept working for about 2 more hours went to Sears and then the hospital. Didn't want to spend the rest of the day at the ER. Got to the Hospital around 8:30 out by 10 stitches and xrays so not too bad the nurse said had I gone in at 3 I would have been there at least 3-4 hours which is what I had figured.

Today I need to drop the diff onto the new brackets. Change brake lines put knuckles on,put bracket supports on, Coilovers on.

Then goto the rear which should take less than an hour. Need to swap out Block, Bottom Bolt Plate and shocks and then go somewhere to my PRG Off Raod traction front mounts welded.

May be working a little slower today so good thing I took tuesday off as well I may need it.
 

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ouch, good luck dropping the diff was the hardest part for me. But I didnt have a transmission jack so i had to balance it on the jack with one hand while trying to get the bolts started with the other.
 
flares are gonna look sick with the lift!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well I dropped the diff into the bracket not that bad. Kit came with the camber bolts so I used an old camber bolt with 2 nuts and a socket on the nut a spreader for the tabs worked great no more sledge hammer incidents this way and it just slid right in. Need to pick up an axle nut and a abs sensor bolt. but I'm getting there.
 

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Anyone have a spare spindle nut or know where I can get one without buying a whole CV assembly? Mine hase the threads all messed up.
 
For any ProComp parts that you might need, each individual Part has a ProComp Part # associated with it in the Install Manual. Just look up the part# of what you need and call 4-Wheel Parts to have it ordered for you. I had to order a second pair of Sway Bar Spacers to save my CV boots from getting rubbed at full lock. Took about 4-days for them to get here from the Denver warehouse.

Also, it's up to you, but I noticed on mine that the silver parts of the Spindles like to rust. You may want to consider spraying them with some of that Duplicolor Truck Bed Spray from Autozone or something else that will hold up before you put your wheels back on.

Dadgumned that cut looks deep. The first pics didn't look too deep with the skin layed over but those stitches look a little deeper.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thanks pops I had just looked there as I remembered ordering parts fron them before. Well I'm glad I'm not lifting an armada.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Oh I also lost one of the abs sensor allen head bolts can't though
 
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