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nismojunky

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So as the title says i finally followed the instructions on active tuning for there grounding kit. Went to my local audio shop bought 8.5 feet of black 4 gauge and 10 ring terminals crimped it and installed. Took about 40 mins, mines a 4x4 so the bolt beside the transmission was a PITA with the front drive shaft there but i got it. It defiantly shifts nicer, smoother, and quicker. worth the 21$ it cost me to do plus it killed a hour of my day haha

heres the web site i got the information from

ActiveTuning 04-07 Nissan Titan/Pathfinder Armada Custom Engine Grounding System Installation - ActiveTuning
 
will this do any good on a 2011

Swyped from my Bionic
 
I need to do this also!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
will this do any good on a 2011

Swyped from my Bionic
I dont see why not, havent been able to find anything about 08+ grounds so dont hold me to that haha
 
Guess we will just have to try it and find out haha
 
Found this on ebay 170767861755. I dont like the price, but it does list it for newer titans.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
like i said go to your local audio shop ask for 3 peices of 4 gauge 24" long one 22" long and if your a 4x4 1 8" long with ring terminals, you do need a few misc blots but not to hard to find. I noticed a smoother shifting transmission, plus I love tinkering with my truck so it was worth the $ to me
 
Ive heard good things about doing this. Smoother shifting, Smoother idle, faster start ups....and i also like to tinker sooo im game haha
 
it works the same way on 08+ i did it on my 2011.
but it helps more on 04-07.
i did it on Beason's 06, and he loves it.
on my 2011, didn't notice much of a difference.
and there was no difference between kits.
i did both, and installed both with the same materials.
 
Did you leave the factory grounds and just run new ones, or did this replace the factory ones?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
leave them in place just add these
 
Did you leave the factory grounds and just run new ones, or did this replace the factory ones?
leave them in place just add these
Might want to double-check - I think that the procedures suggest removing existing grounds to scrape away paint that Nissan tends to just bolt right on top of.
 
you do not have to remove the factory grounds. just make sure you strip the paint on where you're mounting your new ground wires.
electrically speaking, you really don't have to remove them, you can have an unlimited amount of ground wires, not saying that it would help in anyway, but it won't harm the truck electrically. (extra weight might suck)
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Might want to double-check - I think that the procedures suggest removing existing grounds to scrpe away paint that Nissan tends to just bolt right on top of.
I took his question as so I remove all factory grounds and use these, no just add these i scraped off the paint where I added the new grounds thats it
 
I can't get the link to open so can someone tell me what grounds we are upgrading.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
not upgrading but adding pics not added but linky should work later on


First we will install the 24" supplemental Chassis Ground. One end is installed onto the negative battery terminal with the nut provided as shown:

Note: This wire shouldn�t be used when the vehicle has a current-measuring device on the negative battery cable between the battery and the chassis attachment point (We've only seen this in 07's). We recommend removing the chassis attachment point and cleaning to bare metal for a better connection. Nissan bolts these on right over paint.

The other end is mounted to the inner fender bolt hole near the cowl on the passenger side. You will need to remove one push fastener to lift the plastic cowl trim and access the bolt. Be sure to remove the paint for good contact at all chassis ground locations. Add a small amount of silicone grease to prevent rusting if desired.

Be sure cable drops off the top of the battery before it curves rearward towards the cowl or it will contact the hood liner.

The 24" cable is installed on the driver's side of the engine and to a bolt near the cowl on the inner fender. Locate the bolt shown and install one end of the cable here:

You may use a cable tie to secure the cable at the plastic tab behind the airbox. Leave the slack on the engine side of the cable tie to allow for engine movement.

The other end is fastened under the bracket bolt near the front of the valve cover shown here:

Here is another view of this same wire installed with an aftermarket intake:

The next 22" cable is to the alternator. Install it into the second threaded hole next to the factory ground wire as shown using the bolt and washer provided. I accessed this area from behind the front tire on the passenger side:

Push the other end up through the gold anodized bracket next to the factory wire harness.

Fasten it at the extra hole in the bracket below the battery tray adjacent to the factory chassis ground location using the bolt, nut, and washers provided. Clean the area for a good connection:

On the 4x2, the last 24" cable is a transmission ground. Look for a small bracket on the driver side rear of the transmission, and remove the upper bolt to install the cable:

The other end attaches to the same location as the factory exhaust ground strap:

You may optionally drill a small hole in the sheetmetal on the edge of this rectangular hole and use a cable tie to secure the cable. Leave the slack on the transmission side to allow for movement:

On the 4x4, a smaller 8" ground cable is used and installed on the rear of the transfer case as shown here:

2006+ 4X4 models please refer to this photograph for your transmission ground location:
 
I just ordered 9 feet of 8 gauge and 8 ring terminals for this in Friday. Just waiting for them to arrive then I'll get the nuts, bolts, and washers to install everything. Wire and ring terminals cost $15 shipped.

Sent from a phone.
 
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