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Discussion starter · #81 ·
05Titan05 said:
HEATH,

Did you reinforce the screws that hold the sub in? Im afraid after some serious booming the sub might break loose from the wood. Any "beef up" area in the box where the screws are going ?
No, I just used coarse wood screws. I have never used anything else. I also have never seen any manufacture use anything else but wood screws on their own box/sub combos. Even the JL W7 uses plain ole screws. But you can never overdo it I guess. I did use liquid nails on all my joints, tacked it togther using my brad nailer and then screw the final assembly. This box is not falling apart. Then when I get my Line-X sprayed on it, then it will totally be rock solid and airtight!
 
Hey heath, have you gotten your box carpeted and all finished yet? I'm gonna carpet and everything this week and was wondering if you had any tips for me. Also how is that 250/1 amp for running 2 of those W3 subs? I am debating on whether I can just use it or if I need a 500/1. I have heard that the 250/1 actually put out more than the e1400D amp so was thinking that with an e4300 amp for the speakers. Anybody else who has used this setup have any input?
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
ecbmxer said:
Hey heath, have you gotten your box carpeted and all finished yet? I'm gonna carpet and everything this week and was wondering if you had any tips for me. Also how is that 250/1 amp for running 2 of those W3 subs? I am debating on whether I can just use it or if I need a 500/1. I have heard that the 250/1 actually put out more than the e1400D amp so was thinking that with an e4300 amp for the speakers. Anybody else who has used this setup have any input?

Nah, I am still needing to take it to my buddy and get it sprayed with Line-X and my bed at the same time. I just haven't had time, been busy at work, took a week vacation, and doing stuff around the house. I have taken it out, filled in all my screw holes and routed the edges to round it out so when it gets sprayed it is all smooth. I have to make my flames and JL symbol with foam board so when it gets sprayed it will pop out in 3D.

The 250/1 is running them ok. I have disconnected one of the subs to leave one connected to the 250/1 and that really hit hard, so I'm gonna take the amp and replace it with the 500/1. The 250/1 does push the subs good, but more juice, more sound. I want it better. But it's still not a bad amp for the setup. I does perform higher than it's rating. My gains are just under halfway and the sub is turned down in crossover of my Alpine HU and it still is alot bass!
 
Cool, thats what I was thinking. I am gonna get a 500/1 also. I forgot you were line-Xing it and not carpeting it. I am gonna carpet tommorow. What speakers and speaker amp are you running? I am going VR 6.5's and a 300/4 amp.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
ecbmxer said:
Cool, thats what I was thinking. I am gonna get a 500/1 also. I forgot you were line-Xing it and not carpeting it. I am gonna carpet tommorow. What speakers and speaker amp are you running? I am going VR 6.5's and a 300/4 amp.

I have Boston Acoustic SL series 6x9's in front and 6.5 in rear. I am currently running them off an older Alpine 4 channel amp, but it is so underpowering those speakers it's not funny. I have plans for the JL 300/4, I just have to figure out where to mount it. I would really love to make some kind of amp rack like what I have now but with the 300/4 incorporated. But there is not much room for both and I really hate to leave that under the front seats. A set up that beautiful needs to be mounted and displayed with pride :)
 
I was thinking about an amp rack too, but then looked under the front seats and saw how nicely an amp would tuck under there. Granted, you wouldn't see it so nobody could look at your nice setup, but there's not many options. I don't think it would be very good to put amps behind a kingcab rear seat, although I think somebody did it. Do you know anything about the JL VR speakers? If so, would they be overpowered running off a 300/4?
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
ecbmxer said:
I was thinking about an amp rack too, but then looked under the front seats and saw how nicely an amp would tuck under there. Granted, you wouldn't see it so nobody could look at your nice setup, but there's not many options. I don't think it would be very good to put amps behind a kingcab rear seat, although I think somebody did it. Do you know anything about the JL VR speakers? If so, would they be overpowered running off a 300/4?

Actually the VR series are very good. The woofer is that exact same as the XR series just the tweeter is different. I've heard both and VR sound good and I've owned XR and they sound really good. I don't think that would be too much power, but it will be alot of power to those speakers. You could save a little money and go with the e4300 amp and that would do more than enough to power those speakers.

I guess you could mount the amps on the back wall, I was looking at that and you would either have to drill into the metal to mount the amp or reinforce it somehow b/c it is just cloth back there. Plus you might have a depth issue, I haven't studied that option in great detail.
 
Well I got the box built and installed. I ended up puting a RF amp in instead of audiobahn. 250 rms to each sub. The bass is not anywhere near hard enough. I guess its back to the drawing board. I might think about forward firing or up firing box this time. I will think hard about downfiring again. Anyone with up firing or forward firing 10's set up in there truck? I'm intrested in the sound.
 
What kind of subs do you have? The 2 10's i have (comp VR's) with only 100 more watts that you have it way to much. I only have my amp turned up 1/2 way and no bass boost from the deck. I do have an eq, but i never turn the bass past 1/2 way. I don't think I would consider the up firing box as I have heard that you lose a ton of volume firing into the seat. (i guess you could leave the seat up though). How big is your box also? is it sealed or ported?
 
Audiobahn aw1051t DVC subs. My box is probablly 2 small for the enclosure. I also have serious light dimming now. I have never had dimming this bad. I mean the Audiobahn amp for the highs pushing the stock speakers cant be drawing that much, but on the other hand the RF is at I believe full gain with the bass up all the way to get any kind of decent bass. My old set-up in my 97 eclipse would beat so hard my nose would itch. This Box set-up doesn't do crap. I have the stock deck in but it in no way can defeat that much power. I had a stock deck in my mits that had about the same output this deck has. I know it wont be as good as aftermarket but not that bad either. I need some serious rework here!
 
Is your wiring correct on the subs? have you tried running just one to make sure that they are not out of phase? I have never been a big fan of the Audiobahn lines, but this sounds like something beyond just the speakers.

You might want to try the ground upgrade from your battery. it seems like quite a few people on the board have gone this route with great success (i got my 1/0 wire in yesterday and hope to install it this week)

Was this the same system you were running in the eclipse? if not, what has changed?
 
05Titan05 said:
Audiobahn aw1051t DVC subs. My box is probablly 2 small for the enclosure. I also have serious light dimming now. I have never had dimming this bad. I mean the Audiobahn amp for the highs pushing the stock speakers cant be drawing that much, but on the other hand the RF is at I believe full gain with the bass up all the way to get any kind of decent bass. My old set-up in my 97 eclipse would beat so hard my nose would itch. This Box set-up doesn't do crap. I have the stock deck in but it in no way can defeat that much power. I had a stock deck in my mits that had about the same output this deck has. I know it wont be as good as aftermarket but not that bad either. I need some serious rework here!

Well, Try Upgrading the Big 3

Or at least upgrade the Ground wire on your titan use 0ga in place of the stock ground, Upgrading the alternator power wire is a bit more tricky I have not done this yet and I don't have any dimming.

Make sure your amps have the proper size wire and that the gains are stet correctly

All you need is a DMM

to get them in the ballpark


Fist 0 out everything on the HU as far as Bass and trebel fade etc (unless it is woofer fade, then set it to a reasonable level or full if your gain is adjustable enough on the amp)

(DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS)

Set the DMM to AC Voltage and place the leads on one of the speaker terminals.

Start with the gain all the way down to the highest pre-out voltage ont he amp and turnt eh crossover off while adjusting.

Turn your HU to about 2/3rd (is a good point to max out) volume and play a 40htz "test tone" (sine wave) to your sub's amp. or 1000HTZ tone to your components amp.

Adjust untill the Proper Voltage is attained.

This will help ensure no or little clipping on the amplifier up to that volume, if you go louder can can still run into clipping. If you boost bass or adjust the signal youc an still run into clipping.

If your amp is less powerfull than your subs then use it for finding the voltage

VOLTAGE:

V=sqrt(P*R)

IE you are running your amp @ 100wx2 @ 4 ohms (RMS)

use V=sqrt(100x4) or 20V

Or if your amp is more powerful than your subs use the RMS wattage of the subs times the impedence they are run at 300 watts @2 ohms calculate

sqrt(300x2)

if your amp is clipping then it is puling way mroe juice than it shoudl which can cause your lights to dim and damage to your speakers. Using a Bass Boost can also cause teh amplifier to clip and send a dirty signal to yoru speakers.
 
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