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And the vibration continues

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jelake

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2009 Nissan Titan Pro4x CCLB
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Been chasing a vibration/ shudder for a minute now on my 2009 CCLB P4X. I believe at this point the problem is in the rear diff; quick overview- vibration presents at exactly 35-42 MPH then disappears and returns at 68- 73 mph and then disappears. At this point I have replaced the following:

Both front wheel bearings
Both front cv axles,
front diff and propellar shaft
Main drive shaft and carrier bearing
Both rear axle shafts (complete assemblies)
All 4 brake calipers and rotors
All 4 wheels

Also have an additional issue when I come to a slow stop now days where the rear end seems to bounce/ want to move forward a bit (but doesn't), not sure if its axle wrap and/ or associated with the original problem since it developed afterwards.
I do have the bearings for the rear diff on order (have not arrived yet) and plan on getting an alignment shortly there after.I did find a TSB from Nissan in regards to the first gens and the rear cab body mounts that describe this exact issue, but Nissan also insisted in the TSB all other areas have to be ruled out prior to that route (I have the body mounts in the garage, just haven't installed them yet. Is there something else that I might have overlooked? Posted a few months back on this as well, so this is more of an update in some regrd.
 
#2 ·
Weird speeds for a vibration.

And that slow speed vibe is the same speed no matter if you are in any gear? Not just what ever gear it's in while in drive?

The motor and transmission mounts are good?
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Tran mount is good, have a brand new one that I bought but upon verification that the current one is good haven't put it on.

At the recommendation of a tech at Level10, dropped the rear drive shaft, put in four wheel drive and drove it for a couple of miles one day (essentially made it a front wheel drive truck momentarily), vibration completely disappeared. When manually shifting it is also gone (or at least unnoticeable) in 4th but present in all others.

The low speed shudder/ vibration would normally indicate a bearing which is why I am leaning to the bearings in the rear diff at this point.
 
#4 ·
Without the driveshaft in, did the diff input seem to have excess slop?

That definitely helps narrow it down though, knowing that when the driveshaft is off, the vibes stopped.

You should be able to hear the bearings though. Like jack it up and chock the wheels and than put the truck and in drive and let it spin so you can get under and feel/listen with a mechanic stethoscope, or something similar.

The leaf spring bushings are good?
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Havent tried the stethoscope method yet, but the bearings are on order, truck does have 198K on it so fair wear and tear makes sense things are a bit worn too.

Springs seem to be good, although the rear shackles have a bit of rust. Have a new set of those too but havent changed them out yet. Did new springs and shackles on my old 04 duramax (traded in on this truck) three out of 4 eye bolts took 30 mins to get out- the fourth took me another two hours and a lot of swearing. I have changed out the rear shocks and added sumo springs, which did dampen the vibration so it isnt as severe. It is more noticeable when I let the truck coast by taking my foot off the gas.
 
#6 ·
I wonder if the those speeds happen to be where there is a shift point and it's making the diff angle up or down so it's not aligned with the transmission output. Maybe it kind of points oddly for a second or two and than returns to normal position?
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thats possible, the truck is leveled, although I changed the rear block from a 2 inch to a 1 inch and added a 2.5 degree shim yesterday, thinking that the yoke angle on the rear diff might need to be adjusted as it looked a bit sharp. The angle was lessoned but the vibration remained.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I was leaning towards the transmission before but when I spoke with the tech at level10 he leaned me towards the dropping the shaft to isolate the problem. A shift point would make sense except that when I dropped the shaft and ran it in the same speeds, the shudder was gone.

At this point the only place I have left to really go is something either in the rear diff (been trying not to crack it open to this point) or the springs...
 
#9 ·
I guess we are to the point of seeing what the bearings do since you did degree shims on the back? Unless you have a go-pro and can zip tie it to record the diff while go drive it around a little. Or Velcro your phone to record it? I have seen people do both of those successfully to record the diffs
 
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#10 ·
I didn't think about the driveshaft removal t st. That does 100% eliminate that thought
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
I am thinking that the bearings in the diff are probably the original (I got the truck at 155K in 2020) and without knowing what the prior owner did, it could be that the bearings are starting to go (at least that is what I am hoping). Thinking I might change out the springs as well in the near future. However, at this point, if the bearings don't cure the problem I would def be at a loss for what it could be.
 
#12 ·
Me too. I am out of ideas
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
Quick update, have now replaces the motor mounts, the bearings in the rear diff, and the transmission valve body.
On the plus side my mileage has seen a nice uptick with the new valve body... shudder is still present. Going to replace the trans mount and to rule that out as well even though it is near new. Both the old drive shaft and the new one had the shudder not thinking it is that.
Still at a loss as to what is causing it.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Captains log, day lost count on the vibration...

tires and wheels have now been replaced as well. Going back to the starting line and relooking pinion angles. Carrier bearing to the rear came in at 5.2* and rear diff forward at 2.5*. Going to pull the 1 inch blocks and head back to the 2 inch (where I was when this started) and remeasure- shims maybe be the solution at this point or at least an angled block. Other option would be to drop the carrier bearing but since it is only leveled wasn't thinking that would be necessary. Upper portion of the 2-piece shaft is almost flat to the naked eye (transfer case to the carrier bearing). Would be much simpler if it were a simple one piece rear drive shaft...
 
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