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Discussion Starter #1
I have a very loyal '04 Titan with over 175k HARD miles on it. It has been very reliable for me so I am going to return the love!

I am going to replace all the shocks and springs and am wondering what else can I freshen up to give it that nice tight feel it had when new.

What all bushings, joints, etc should I replace/check to get that like new feeling?
 

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You would replace the entire Upper and Lower control arms instead of just replacing the bushings?
I wouldn't replace any of that unless it's broken or slap wore out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is what you want, your coil springs are still good but you can upgrade to the moog springs if you want but they will lift the front of your truck. Bilstein shocks and struts will greatly improve your ride especially if your still on the originals.
Bilstein 5100 Complete SET - Total Automotive Performance - Your Source for Auto Parts and Accessories
Thanks, This is what I was planning to do, but wanted to replace old bushings while I was at it.

I was thinking replace the rack and pinion bushings, swaybar bushings, tie rod ends, etc.

Looking for a list of bushings I should order before I tear everything apart. If replacing the UCA and LCA will give me a really good improvement, I am not against it, but would just replace the bushings if that is deemed adequate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looking around I see ball joints running $18 to Moog ones that are $45 each. Bushings seem to run about $10 to $25 each.

If you add all that up, that is almost $300 in parts (depending on what qualities you buy), and you still have to wrestle with getting the bushings out and in.

The Moog control arms only cost about $350. Are they better than OEM? Other than the obvious problem with throwing away perfectly good metal, it seems a no brainer buying the Moogs and have ball joints and Bushings already set, pressed, and ready to go.

Am I not calculating this correctly?
 

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One of our sponsers are selling a set of new lower and upper controls for $266 VIA 1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online



I thought about replacing both my uca and lca recently. I put mogg ball joints upper and lower 50k ago and they are starting to feel a little loose now. My arms are just rusted to hell with the Minnesota winter. Those sets from 1aauto are with a lifetime warranty. They are no dirtking or prg. Thinking about pulling the trigger for how cheap they are I have also read from a member they seem to hold some good quality.



1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Timmy, I saw these when doing some searching. I wonder how they hold up quality wise versus the Moogs. Liftetime warranty is attractive, but I would honestly pay someone the $266 to switch them out if they started having problems. The labor is why I am considering replacing the UCA and LCAs in the first place
 

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Thanks Timmy, I saw these when doing some searching. I wonder how they hold up quality wise versus the Moogs. Liftetime warranty is attractive, but I would honestly pay someone the $266 to switch them out if they started having problems. The labor is why I am considering replacing the UCA and LCAs in the first place
No problem man!

I would say my moggs held up fine over the years with all of the off roading I do for hunting. Now I am to a point where my arms are just so corroded and I'm sure the bushings are shot.

When I replaced my upper and lower ball joints it did take me a few hours. The ball joint press I rented from O riellys didn't really have the proper adapters. I can't image changing the arms would take any longer. Especially if you are changing your shocks anyways.

And if you have the money to avoid labor, by all means.

I might actually pull the trigger on those 1aauto arms today. I will let you know how the install goes.
 

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Looking around I see ball joints running $18 to Moog ones that are $45 each. Bushings seem to run about $10 to $25 each.

If you add all that up, that is almost $300 in parts (depending on what qualities you buy), and you still have to wrestle with getting the bushings out and in.

The Moog control arms only cost about $350. Are they better than OEM? Other than the obvious problem with throwing away perfectly good metal, it seems a no brainer buying the Moogs and have ball joints and Bushings already set, pressed, and ready to go.

Am I not calculating this correctly?
With parts (about $350) and labor I only had ~$600+ into it all.

MOOG is better than the OEM.
 

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Junk.



I put mogg ball joints upper and lower 50k ago and they are starting to feel a little loose now.
That is why you replace the UCA and LCA with the ball joints already installed from MOOG or wherever you like to buy. Your OEM control arms have already had ball joints pressed in and now the hole is too big for the replacement ones to fit in.

Labor to replace arms is cheaper than pressing ball joints in and out. If the ball joints are bad, so are the bushings in the arm. Why not replace all at once?
 

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No problem man!

I would say my moggs held up fine over the years with all of the off roading I do for hunting. Now I am to a point where my arms are just so corroded and I'm sure the bushings are shot.

When I replaced my upper and lower ball joints it did take me a few hours. The ball joint press I rented from O riellys didn't really have the proper adapters. I can't image changing the arms would take any longer. Especially if you are changing your shocks anyways.

And if you have the money to avoid labor, by all means.

I might actually pull the trigger on those 1aauto arms today. I will let you know how the install goes.
Tim, If you decide to buy those from us we'll stand behind the warranty if anything happens.

I just replaced the entire front steering linkage ball joints and all with the parts that we sell, and it feels really good. I have an 04 Grand Cherokee with 189,000 on it. It's mostly hiway driven.

As employees we try to run as much as possible over here on our own vehicles to ensure that our customers receive decent repair parts.


Tony:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is what you want, your coil springs are still good but you can upgrade to the moog springs if you want but they will lift the front of your truck. Bilstein shocks and struts will greatly improve your ride especially if your still on the originals.
Bilstein 5100 Complete SET - Total Automotive Performance - Your Source for Auto Parts and Accessories
MikeClark, You said the Moog Springs will lift my front. I have a old leveling kit I installed when the truck was about 8 years old. Should I remove that if I put the Moog springs on?

Also, the 5100 series shocks for a 4x4, would those work with a 4x4 with the off road package?
 

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MikeClark, You said the Moog Springs will lift my front. I have a old leveling kit I installed when the truck was about 8 years old. Should I remove that if I put the Moog springs on?

Also, the 5100 series shocks for a 4x4, would those work with a 4x4 with the off road package?
Yes the 5100's are the same for both 4x4 and 4x2. The moog springs will lift the front of your truck 1" as long as you leave the 5100's on the bottom setting. The most you can lift the front of your truck is 2" before needing upper control arms with better clearance(rough country,dirt king,prg). When I put moog springs on my 5100's I kept the 5100's on the bottom setting and the spring was compressed a good bit but not too much. If you have a leveling kit that works and you like the way the truck sits I would just get the 5100's and call it good. The ride will be better than new.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Yes the 5100's are the same for both 4x4 and 4x2. The moog springs will lift the front of your truck 1" as long as you leave the 5100's on the bottom setting. The most you can lift the front of your truck is 2" before needing upper control arms with better clearance(rough country,dirt king,prg). When I put moog springs on my 5100's I kept the 5100's on the bottom setting and the spring was compressed a good bit but not too much. If you have a leveling kit that works and you like the way the truck sits I would just get the 5100's and call it good. The ride will be better than new.

Thanks for the info. All of this really helps. You said if I like the way the truck sits, just get the 5100's and call it good.

Would you guys think the original oem springs would be good after 175k of towing and hauling more than I should?

Only have experience with my toy land rovers, and after 10 years, those springs usually sag over a inch, some cases almost 2 inches.

And with the horror stories I have been hearing with coilovers, should I opt to get 5100's with coils already on them, and where would I source that.

I really appreciate all the help. Almost got a order list ready!!!!!
:laugh:
 

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The only place I've seen with preassembled 5100's is PRG but they want 650 and people have had trouble getting their orders from them. I would use TapAuto they are fast. Coilovers would be easier to install if you don't mind spending the money. When I installed mine I used a rental spring compressor and an electric impact gun,pinned it to the ground with my foot and went to town on it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks MikeClark. Getting this ordered soon.

Last question, is there a way to tell if the old springs/coils are wore out. On our rovers, we would measure from the fender well to the center of the center cap of the rim to see if they are sagging too much.

Does anyone know what the measurement on a stock 2004 Off-Road Package 4x4 should be?
 

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Thanks for the info. All of this really helps. You said if I like the way the truck sits, just get the 5100's and call it good.

Would you guys think the original oem springs would be good after 175k of towing and hauling more than I should?

Only have experience with my toy land rovers, and after 10 years, those springs usually sag over a inch, some cases almost 2 inches.

And with the horror stories I have been hearing with coilovers, should I opt to get 5100's with coils already on them, and where would I source that.

I really appreciate all the help. Almost got a order list ready!!!!!
:laugh:
I wouldn't worry about the front springs. I would worry about the shackles breaking on the rear springs. There were a few shackle failures on early Titans before Nissan changed the design. I was one of the unlucky ones with a shackle failure but caught it early enough before the spring went thru the box. Inspect your shackles.

On my 2004 Titan I put 2008 Pro4x springs on the front with Bilstein 5100s on the low setting. Added about a 1.5" of front end lift if I remember correctly.
 
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