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I don't believe there is a TSB out for '06 crew cab rear windshield water leak. However, I noticed that water dripping from the black frame above the small window glass on the passenger's side when I was driving in the rain. The dealer removed the entire windshield and recaulked it (actually they let Glass America do the work). They had to do it twice because the first repair attempt resulted in a leak from a different spot. You might want to inspect your rear windshield even if you do not have a sliding rear windshield when you find your rear floor carpet wet.
 

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Yes, I have the same problem... Three times at the glass shop and it is still leaking... Has anyone ever found a resolve to this? I have an 06 CC with a power rear slider.
 

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i did a write up on this same issue. Mine just started leaking again. Check my posts.."Water leaking in cab" im willing to bet this is the same problem you are having.
 

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Thanks for the tip, in fact I actually found your prior post when this problem first came up.. I checked the seams and they looks good.. I did all the normal leak preventative measure that most T owners perform; i.e. AC drain tube mod, checked the body plugs, door gaskets, etc.. The water is (now) coming in a little above the black interior trim ledge that is formed on the glass and more so along the top edges. If I run a garden hose over the top corner (now on both sides when before the glass replacement is was only the drivers side from what I could tell), it trickles down the upper inside edge, and sometimes above that black ledge piece. The shop doubled up on the window seal (foam gooey material) on the outer edge of the black plastic glass frame in attempt to eliminate the leak, but it is still leaking! Yes, I have to run the garden hose (with no attachment) upwards in the corners to get the obvious leak to happen, but regardless, the glass should not leak! And yes, when it rains little puddles form on the floor pan in the back edges of the cab. The glass shop now wants to install some type of R.V. T-Mold rubber gasket around the outer glass in order to still get paid from my insurance company.. Oh, and yes, I was able to claim the repair under my comprehensive insurance (thank God!). But I simply do not want a band aid on the problem, nor do I want some ugly rubber t-mold running the perimeter of my back glass.. I'm not asking for much, just no leaks. I even took out all the seats and trim panels myself to make their lives easy! I think its time to drop the original shop and enlist someone else that may be able to fix it right. Has anyone else out there enccountered this problem? Any advice you can offer me or the next shop to attempt this repair? Seems like several members have had similar issues. I have pictures of the seams/pinch welds/mating surface from when the glass was out.. The glass shop said they could not see anything body wise that would cause this leak.. I can post them if that would help someone lead me/us to a resolve.
 

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water might be coming in through the holes for the 3rd brake light. if you want to check this you have two plugs on the inside near the back window. if you take these out you have access to the bolts that hold the 3rd brake light on. take the light off, put silicone around holes on the top between light and roof, let it dry a little, put light back on. hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the tip TITANBOY, I've checked that seal/gasket and it is good. Wouldn't hurt to put some silicone around the stud holes as a preventative measure though. My window leaks, even when there is no water around the 3rd brake light.
 

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Update: After two glass shops, 5 attempts, 2 sets of glass, and my interior getting thrashed, I have had to determine the problem myself and repair.
Here is my situation: My T had a minor dent on the edge of the roof on the driver's side, close to the roof trim piece, between it and the 3rd brake light when I bought it. I did not notice it until finalizing the sale and walking out on a stair case high enough to see the roof edge.. Coincidently that side was the one leaking when this all began, discovered by the condensation under the drivers side floor mat and eventual discovery of a wet back carpet. I was told by a glass shop that the plastic frame that mates to the cab, and that the glass is formed to, was damaged and that there was a gap between the two.. Creating the leak.. So, I scheduled the replacement. Well, no, it was not the issue after all the repair attempts. Since giving up on the shops I went ahead and bought a $20 tube of 3M Urethane and masked off the glass and inside the body channel as far as possible. I applied a bead of sealer and used a scrap piece of plastic to force the urethane between the glass, plastic frame, and cab. I smoothed it over and viola! No more leaks from the edges. BUT, I still noticed a drip from both top corners.. I removed the outside roof trim pieces (again) and realized that this slow drip MUST be coming from the small cracks in the seams an/or rivets becuase there is no way after 2 layers of Urethane around the top and sides of the outer glass that there could still be a leak. So I masked off the roof, scuffed and cleaned the seem area, and applied a thin coat of urethane, and once again viola! Amazing that two glass shops and five different installers couldn't figure this out. I noticed yesterday after a heavy rain here in Florida that there is still a minor drip present on my passenger's side top rear, most likely due to a crack in the seam/seem filler material that I did not fill. Unfortunately the passengers side crack extends past where the trim piece covers, but I plan on masking and filling it with urethane and dealing with how it may look.. Only I will know that there is a thin 1" long line of urethane on the roof seem.
So if you have a leak, check the seems under the back roof trim pieces. If thats not it, save yourself the hassle if its the window seal and mask and urethane the outside yourself.
Let me know if anyone would like to see some pictures or if you have any questions or comments.
By the way, I have my original glass with the slider that is perfectly fine that I will be listing for sale if anyone needs it.
 

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I applied a bead of sealer and used a scrap piece of plastic to force the urethane between the glass, plastic frame, and cab. I smoothed it over and viola! No more leaks from the edges.
Do you have a picture of this ? Are you saying you filled in the big groove all around the rear window ? ust want to be sure because I am having the same problems.

Thanks
Joe
 

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Yes, I filled the inner edge of the glass frame against the cab. I used masking tape to cover as much of the channel as possible as to not have a big fat bead of urethane between the two. Take a look at the pics and let me know if this makes sense.
 

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Sorry to the member that PM'd me, I deleted the message by accident. As per my previous posts I was going to send you the following response.

"The glass company that did it was not one that I would recommend as the rear seats neat to come out along with all the paneling, etc. Even after they re-worked it twice it still leaked. I believe now that it may be more of a design error than a leaky window or seal. My fix, going on several years now, was to mask off the glass and the cab and run a bead of 3M window adhesive caulk around the top and edges of the rear glass, however not the bottom. Seriously, years later and its good. Save the time and effort and go this route, plus if you're careful it looks good."
 

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Phasterthanyou, I am considering doing the same thing as you. I ordered 3m Marine Silcone MG SIL sealant. Did you fill the whole gap in? IS there any reason you didn't do the bottom?

Rather then have someone gut the interior, and remove window, install, find it still leaks like you and others have found, I am thinking your way may be the best way.

Let me know details. Thank you

PS: Also is it still fixed?
 

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Also, has anyone else repaired this way? Experience?
 

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Phasterthanyou, I am considering doing the same thing as you. I ordered 3m Marine Silcone MG SIL sealant. Did you fill the whole gap in? IS there any reason you didn't do the bottom?

Rather then have someone gut the interior, and remove window, install, find it still leaks like you and others have found, I am thinking your way may be the best way.

Let me know details. Thank you

PS: Also is it still fixed?
Hey Italy,
Yessir, 5 years later and still good. I did however do a touch up of sorts a couple years ago. Originally I caulked just inside the gap between the glass and cab to where the bead of caulking was level with the glass, when I did the touch up I filled the entire gap right to the inside edge of the cab where it eases in. Unless you're looking for it or are right up to it you'd never know. Definitely the best solution.
As for not running a bead across the bottom, with the glass out you'd see that there's a flange that rises above the edge of the glass. With that said, there's virtually no way water could build up in the lower gap and work its way in. So frankly, there really was no need to. Naturally for peace of mind and since you'd already be doing the top and edges, it probably wouldn't hurt to hit the bottom while you're at it. But like I said, you don't need to do so to accomplish the repair.
For less than 20 bucks (cost of the 3M black adhesive/caulk) I consider this a permanent fix for a fraction of the cost and aggravation of replacing the glass or tearing out the freak'n interior trying to source and fix a leak.
Good luck!
 

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Hey Italy,
Yessir, 5 years later and still good. I did however do a touch up of sorts a couple years ago. Originally I caulked just inside the gap between the glass and cab to where the bead of caulking was level with the glass, when I did the touch up I filled the entire gap right to the inside edge of the cab where it eases in. Unless you're looking for it or are right up to it you'd never know. Definitely the best solution.
As for not running a bead across the bottom, with the glass out you'd see that there's a flange that rises above the edge of the glass. With that said, there's virtually no way water could build up in the lower gap and work its way in. So frankly, there really was no need to. Naturally for peace of mind and since you'd already be doing the top and edges, it probably wouldn't hurt to hit the bottom while you're at it. But like I said, you don't need to do so to accomplish the repair.
For less than 20 bucks (cost of the 3M black adhesive/caulk) I consider this a permanent fix for a fraction of the cost and aggravation of replacing the glass or tearing out the freak'n interior trying to source and fix a leak.
Good luck!

Hey Bud! Thank you for your detailed write-up and explanation. The only thing different I was going to do is use 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant that is clear. I figured using Marine grade clear silicone would be a good choice because it is a sealer designed for vibrations and direct sunlight, etc.

I plan on doing what you did the second time, filling in the entire gap, which would make life easier, and honestly, that should of been done from the factory.

When I looked in the gap, there was a ton of black mold mildew in that channel just from moisture. Bad design. I cleaned the channel completely out with a mixture of bleach and water.

I know they say Silicone is extremely hard to remove if this project fails, but, at this rate, it seems worth the risk.

Just about every post on the forum and others state, resealing the window does not work, even after it is done several times. Some say after trying to reseal several times, they had to replace the window finally at a price tag of $750-$800 just for the window itself. (I have the power window).

In my mind, why bother having your interior gutted several times trying to rectify this and destroy it at the same time. Again, poor design by Nissan.

The window is butyl taped in, not good anyway, should of been urethaned in. Not only that, you have the plastic frame that is sealed onto the window (part that holds the bolts) and there has been reports that water leaks between this frame and the window too.

Others have reported that the different matings of the metal cab/overlap joints where the butyl tape resides leak between them too. Again, Design.

Seems like the only way to stop the window from leaking is to seal this gap completely and it would resolved all the issues one shot without spending a ton of money and time.


WHat do you think of using the Silicone/Clear?
 

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Can you post pictures of what it looks like now that you filled it completely in?

Thanks!
 

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ok, I siliconed the whole gap all the way around the window. Honestly, it doesn't look bad at all and unless you know its there, you wouldn't notice.

I used Clear 3m Marine Silicone.

Will tell the next time it rains, but I am certain this cured it.
 

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Hey Italy,
Yessir, 5 years later and still good. I did however do a touch up of sorts a couple years ago. Originally I caulked just inside the gap between the glass and cab to where the bead of caulking was level with the glass, when I did the touch up I filled the entire gap right to the inside edge of the cab where it eases in. Unless you're looking for it or are right up to it you'd never know. Definitely the best solution.
As for not running a bead across the bottom, with the glass out you'd see that there's a flange that rises above the edge of the glass. With that said, there's virtually no way water could build up in the lower gap and work its way in. So frankly, there really was no need to. Naturally for peace of mind and since you'd already be doing the top and edges, it probably wouldn't hurt to hit the bottom while you're at it. But like I said, you don't need to do so to accomplish the repair.
For less than 20 bucks (cost of the 3M black adhesive/caulk) I consider this a permanent fix for a fraction of the cost and aggravation of replacing the glass or tearing out the freak'n interior trying to source and fix a leak.
Good luck!

You are a genius! I sealed around the window, first taping off the window and body. I used 3M Marine clear silicone. I also removed the roof trim that is held on by the rivots and sealed completely under them.

I drove it through car wash 3 times, and then it poured rain all day today. ZERO water leaking. I appreciate your recommendation and write up.

This is DEFINITELY the fix for this as the back window in our trucks (Power) is a poor design and will keep on leaking even if you replace the window.

This fix looks good and works.
 
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