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Discussion Starter #1
First off... yes I have searched and I can't find the answer to my exact set up and there are some out there similar but trucks were older so I'm not sure if I'm in the same boat?

Looking to level my truck. 2014 Pro 4X

Want to add 1.5" PRG spacers and add Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners and leave the front set on the lowest setting (or 0" according to what I'm reading)
Adding 285/70-18 Nitto Exo Grapplers

Question is....
1. Do I need to add front sway bar links?
2. Will I have coil bucket contact?
3. Will I need a cam bolt kit?
4. Do you think I will have to do PWM?
5. Any rubbing issues?

Any and all help is appreciated!
Thanks
 

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You might need front bar links, but probably not.

You shouldn't have CBC but occasionally folks get it even with 1.5" lift.

You may be able to get by without cam bolts but my money is on you needing them.

You shouldn't need the PWM but maybe you will. You might have to lose the mudflaps or at least mod them slightly, though i doubt it. Other than that, I suspect it will work.
 

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I think you will get CBC. When I had a 1.5" leveling kit on the stock struts I got CBC.

For background, I have a 2011 Pro4x with 5100s, 1.5" spacer, dirt king bushing UCAs, trued up Duratrac 275/70R18s (if I remember correctly), and energy suspension end links. I nearly get CBC even with dirt king bushing UCAs, 5100s (bottom shelf i.e. 0" lift), and a 1.5" effective lift spacer. At full extension the UCA is about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the CB, so the stock UCA would hit for sure.

After replacing the struts you will need get an alignment so get the cambolts. You don't want to ruin your new tires right? I got mine off amazon for about $50 - just search for Moog K80276 and order 2. Also, the lock nuts aren't great so grab grade 8 lock washers from home depot before you put the cambolts on. In fact, taking the old cam bolts out gives you more clearance to install the struts.

I would keep the sway bar. I tried without the sway bar when I had the 5100s on the lowest setting, DK UCAs, and a 1.5" spacer, and it was way too floaty for me. Kind of scary on the freeway actually. I wouldn't want my SO driving. The stock end links should be okay, but you can get the rough country ones off amazon for about $30. I went with energy suspension adjustable end links, which are beefier than the RCs but more expensive.

My 2 cents:
If I was to do it again I would do all of the suspension components at once the right way. Aftermarket UCA, 5100s on lowest setting, 1.5" spacer, keep the end links. It's really frustrating when you have been to the alignment shop 3 times in 2 months after messing with the suspension over and over.

Here's all that I tried in chronological order:
Stock struts, 1.5" spacer, stock end links, - rode okay, except CBC, at about 50k miles these struts were worn
5100s on top setting, no spacer - rode terribly - very bumpy only gain was tighter corning and near perfect level
5100s on top setting, no spacer, no sway bar - still very bumpy and now floaty, medium bumps seemed better than with the sway bar
5100s on bottom setting, 1.5" spacer, DK UCA, no sway bar - ride quality is excellent, but very floaty
5100s on bottom setting, 1.5" spacer, DK UCA, sway bar, ES end links - perfect ride for me, smooth over bumps no float, but not quite level ~1/2" rake

Another thing people don't really talk to much about before you lift is shimmy over bumps. With larger tires and a lift you will notice it more. The rack and pinion on these trucks is simply not strong enough to handle heavy tires. The lift makes it slightly worse since the length of the tie rods get slightly longer, meaning a longer lever arm and therefor road forces are more easily felt through the steering wheel. Not to mention the change in angle of the tie rod relative to the LCA causing more shimmy. I have not figured out how to fix this, but I suspect that changing the tie rods so that they are set slightly lower would help.

When you get your tires make sure the shop balances them correctly. Big tires are harder to balance. They should do it dynamically, with weights on the inside and outside portion of the wheel. If they don't and you do all this suspension work then you will go crazy trying to track down vibrations. If they have a lot of trouble getting them balanced then the tires could be out of round. If you have any vibration that you didn't have before over 60 mph then the balance is off or the tires are out of round.

On my current set up the ride and shimmy over bumps is the best its ever been since I bought the truck at 40k miles.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I think you will get CBC. When I had a 1.5" leveling kit on the stock struts I got CBC.

For background, I have a 2011 Pro4x with 5100s, 1.5" spacer, dirt king bushing UCAs, trued up Duratrac 275/70R18s (if I remember correctly), and energy suspension end links. I nearly get CBC even with dirt king bushing UCAs, 5100s (bottom shelf i.e. 0" lift), and a 1.5" effective lift spacer. At full extension the UCA is about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the CB, so the stock UCA would hit for sure.

After replacing the struts you will need get an alignment so get the cambolts. You don't want to ruin your new tires right? I got mine off amazon for about $50 - just search for Moog K80276 and order 2. Also, the lock nuts aren't great so grab grade 8 lock washers from home depot before you put the cambolts on. In fact, taking the old cam bolts out gives you more clearance to install the struts.

I would keep the sway bar. I tried without the sway bar when I had the 5100s on the lowest setting, DK UCAs, and a 1.5" spacer, and it was way too floaty for me. Kind of scary on the freeway actually. I wouldn't want my SO driving. The stock end links should be okay, but you can get the rough country ones off amazon for about $30. I went with energy suspension adjustable end links, which are beefier than the RCs but more expensive.

My 2 cents:
If I was to do it again I would do all of the suspension components at once the right way. Aftermarket UCA, 5100s on lowest setting, 1.5" spacer, keep the end links. It's really frustrating when you have been to the alignment shop 3 times in 2 months after messing with the suspension over and over.

Here's all that I tried in chronological order:
Stock struts, 1.5" spacer, stock end links, - rode okay, except CBC, at about 50k miles these struts were worn
5100s on top setting, no spacer - rode terribly - very bumpy only gain was tighter corning and near perfect level
5100s on top setting, no spacer, no sway bar - still very bumpy and now floaty, medium bumps seemed better than with the sway bar
5100s on bottom setting, 1.5" spacer, DK UCA, no sway bar - ride quality is excellent, but very floaty
5100s on bottom setting, 1.5" spacer, DK UCA, sway bar, ES end links - perfect ride for me, smooth over bumps no float, but not quite ~1/2" rake

Another thing people don't really talk to much about before you lift is shimmy over bumps. With larger tires and a lift you will notice it more. The rack and pinion on these trucks is simply not strong enough to handle heavy tires. The lift makes it slightly worse since the length of the tie rods get slightly longer, meaning a longer lever arm and therefor road forces are more easily felt through the steering wheel. Not to mention the change in angle of the tie rod relative to the LCA causing more shimmy. I have not figured out how to fix this, but I suspect that changing the tie rods so that they are set slightly lower would help.

When you get your tires make sure the shop balances them correctly. Big tires are harder to balance. They should do it dynamically, with weights on the inside and outside portion of the wheel. If they don't and you do all this suspension work then you will go crazy trying to track down vibrations. If they have a lot of trouble getting them balanced then the tires could be out of round. If you have any vibration that you didn't have before over 60 mph then the balance is off or the tires are out of round.

On my current set up the ride and shimmy over bumps is the best its ever been since I bought the truck at 40k miles.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for the great write up.
I agree... want to everything together right away so I don't have to keep taking the time to go back and forth to the shop and have something fixed. Would rather do it right the first time. Tires are only .5" taller than stock so hopefully won't be a ton of weight added.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Whats the thought if I just put the Bilstein on middle setting (1")?
I'm guessing harsher ride.... but would I need all the additional components like UCA, cam bolts, end links, etc.
 

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You won't need ucas. You probably won't need cam bolts. If you went to middle perch the ride is great but adding the spacer and middle you'd need ucas, cam bolts, and such.

As for endlinks at middle or bottom and a 1.5" spacer, you probably won't need them. At middle and spacer it will for sure be needed.
 

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Not to thread jack but, I am going to be running the exact same setup. Are the billy's still a .5" taller than the factory rancho's even set at the 0" mark? I read somewhere they (were) are .5" taller to avoid CBC. Is this till the case? If so, OP would be closer to 2" of lift
 

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Not to thread jack but, I am going to be running the exact same setup. Are the billy's still a .5" taller than the factory rancho's even set at the 0" mark? I read somewhere they (were) are .5" taller to avoid CBC. Is this till the case? If so, OP would be closer to 2" of lift
Not the new ones. New ones have a different hat that doesn't add the .5" extra strut length.
 

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I'd get the cam bolts because they're cheap and easy to install. Might as well do it while your down there.

Personally I would get the alignment done (requires cam bolts) after replacing the struts for fear of ruining $1k worth of tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After reading everyones input and continuing to surf all the other forums it seems like every vehicle is different even the same make, year and model.... some PMW, some UCA, some running 35's with spacer lift, end links..etc. LOL
I think the safe bet for me is going to go with the Bils set at middle perch (1")and cam bolt kit from PRG, and then just add the stock size 275/70-18 BFG AT KO2 on the stock wheels and call it a day.
My luck .... I will start this minor project and next thing I know I will be in for $4K and still have a terrible ride?
 

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Well there's good info and then there's bad info. At 1" of lift you do not need 40-60 dollar cam bolts. If you do the person doing your alignment is piss poor at their job. 275/70r18 is a skinny 33. You can run any wider 33" tire. Promise. At least you can on stock wheels. 35's won't work on stock wheels. Been there tried that, you'll rub the frame. You won't get cbc with 1" of lift either.

User error would cause 4k in money spent. Refer to my previous post where I answered your question.
 

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Well there's good info and then there's bad info. At 1" of lift you do not need 40-60 dollar cam bolts. If you do the person doing your alignment is piss poor at their job. 275/70r18 is a skinny 33. You can run any wider 33" tire. Promise. At least you can on stock wheels. 35's won't work on stock wheels. Been there tried that, you'll rub the frame. You won't get cbc with 1" of lift either.

User error would cause 4k in money spent. Refer to my previous post where I answered your question.
x2. lots and lots and lots of bad info. him, me, and fishnalaska can only catch so many threads to answer lollllllll
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well there's good info and then there's bad info. At 1" of lift you do not need 40-60 dollar cam bolts. If you do the person doing your alignment is piss poor at their job. 275/70r18 is a skinny 33. You can run any wider 33" tire. Promise. At least you can on stock wheels. 35's won't work on stock wheels. Been there tried that, you'll rub the frame. You won't get cbc with 1" of lift either.

User error would cause 4k in money spent. Refer to my previous post where I answered your question.
Whats your suggestion for a wider 33? This truck is going to be turned into a 3rd vehicle soon, for just running around and going to hunt, camp, and pull trailer with 4 wheeler in it.
 

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Whats your suggestion for a wider 33? This truck is going to be turned into a 3rd vehicle soon, for just running around and going to hunt, camp, and pull trailer with 4 wheeler in it.
Like tires? Toyo at2 or duratracs. Size? 33x12.50. I'm not listing all of the metric close to equivalents :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Like tires? Toyo at2 or duratracs. Size? 33x12.50. I'm not listing all of the metric close to equivalents :lol:
I could run a 12.5 wide tire without rubbing issues or PWM... with Just a straight up 1" Billy level?
Like the look of a 295/65-18 Duratrac.... Didnt' see any Toyo in that range?

That would be fantastic!!
 

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Re: 1.5" PRG and Bilstein

Yeah, you could. Stock tire size is already 33/10-11ish. That tire size would be just fine that you listed.
 

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Just backing up what papro4x said. I just put blisteins on middle perch on my 2011 pro4x and no cam bolt was needed at all so if thats all you are gonna do save your money. I may add though the rake is still pretty noticeable at least with my truck but your truck may be a different story.
 

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Toe will be off when you put the spacer on, so an alignment would be necessary anyway and IMHO you might as well have the CBs on when it's done. I don't know how an alignment could be messed up with them on. My alignment guy at Lee's Alignment also has a Titan and recommended the CBs for proper alignment. I was messing around with my suspension a lot so I decided to go ahead and install them.

For the guys who didn't put the cam bolts on, I am curious what's your camber measurement? How's your tread wear? I am totally fine with being wrong about putting them on. I'd just hate to see someone wear their expensive tires unevenly to save $50 when they're going to get an alignment anyway.
 

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I ran a 2.5" leveling kit and didn't need them. Tires were wearing fine. Now that said, I before that I ran a 1.5" kit and was aligned dead on.

No issues. Never had an issue. I didn't absolutely need my DK cam bolts until I went up to my 6" kit and coilovers.

Again, at 1" of lift or 1.5" it's not needed and if the person doing the alignment can't get it in spec than find someone better at their job.

Search the forum high and low. You'll find a lot of info from vendors and peeps with basic levels all saying what I just did..

I'd show you my sheets but I cleaned them out of the truck along with all the other scrap paper.
 

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PRG, the man the myth the legend, doesn't recommend cam bolts until moving up to a 2" spacer FWIW.
 
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