[mudhole]

when i turn the key, nothing happens, at the starter relay there is no voltage to close the circuit. the only thing that happens is that the radio turns off. the battery shows no drop in voltage when key is turned, 12.9 volts. i have checked all fuses both visibly and with continuity test. i have tried the nats reset where you turn on/off 3 cycles while leaving it on for 5 seconds, i took off the neutral safety and everything seemed to be connected, however i didnt check for continuity because i could get easy access for the probes.


this truck always started, but then it sat for maybe 2 months...

oh, it has a new IPDM already and i checked each relay by putting 12 volts to it and all relays closed and showed continuity, i also swapped relays to try it as well.

i feel like this is an ignition/security type problem...any help?

 

[Smccarty3]

I'd start with a battery. Unless it's brand new. Titans don't like weak or old batteries. Do you have a remote starter on there? Is it throwing any codes? From what I have read if you try to start it with a key that's not programmed for the truck it can cause problems.

 

[Walrus]

Crusty cable syndrome.
Clean the terminals. Inspect the cables.

 

[mudhole]

the battery was purchased on november of 2015, so only 7 months old, i will swap out the negative cable, but i would think i would see a voltage drop when i try to start it...but that is an easy thing to swap out.

 

[37L1]

Check your ground wires.

 

[mudhole]

well i have switched out negative ground cable, that didnt fix it, still not getting power to relay, then i hooked up battery charger to it, tested voltage at battery with it hooked up and it was 13.8v, tried to start with that attached, still nothing...

it has got to be the NATS or ignition, how do i test those...i tried to reset the nats, but that didnt help either.

 

[robstrevor]

I know I say this a lot...but... it's always the battery. I had a battery test fine before and it was actually bad. People have bought bad "new" ones. I'd try a new battery before I investigated anything else. Key phrase you said, "it sat for 2 months". That could be all it took. Just my 2 cents.

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[mudhole]

going out to do that now...I HOPE that is it!!!

 

[mudhole]

my bad luck holds true, different battery same outcome, no turnover, no power to starter relay.

 

[robstrevor]

my bad luck holds true, different battery same outcome, no turnover, no power to starter relay.

Damn. I'm sorry. Lol that sucks. Could it be a bad relay?

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[mudhole]

i wish it was a bad relay, i switched them around, and tested them while out, i am not getting any power to the relay to close the circuit.

it has got to be in the ignition or the NAT security...it is an 2004 xe so from what i understand there is not a chip in the key for this.

the one symptom other than not starting is that the radio turns off and on when i try to start, no other electrical does, dome, headlights etc all stay on, but there is no voltage drop at the battery.

if it is NATS/key issue, would the starter still turnover?

 

[mudhole]

if it is a neutral switch issue would it still turnover?

 

[robstrevor]

I don't have an answer for you on that. Have tried just following the wires and inspecting them all the way to where ever it goes?

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[Grafton]

if it is a neutral switch issue would it still turnover?

I don't believe so.

Not sure if you have seen the start circuit, hope it helps:


STARTING SYSTEM PFP:23300 System Description EKS008W7
Power is supplied at all times:
● through 40A fusible link (letter m , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
● to ignition switch terminal B. With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied:
● from ignition switch terminal ST
● to IPDM E/R terminal 21. With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied to IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room) CPU. With the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied:
● through A/T assembly terminal 9
● to IPDM E/R terminal 48. Ground is supplied at all times:
● to IPDM E/R terminals 38 and 59
● from body grounds E9, E15 and E24. Then the starter relay is turned on. The IPDM E/R is energized and power is supplied:
● from terminal 19 of the IPDM E/R
● to terminal 1 of the starter motor windings. The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor.

The starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.

 

[mudhole]

thanks for the diagram!!!!!, so if i am reading this correctly, if the starter relay is not getting energized to close the circuit, then i need to check the black/red wire coming from ignition switch to see if i have "juice" when the key goes to start?

 

[mudhole]

houston we have lift off!!!!, thanks for the wiring diagram!!!!, now here was the problem, i happen to have a son...

this son, i am assuming it was him because my daughters wouldnt have done it, thought the fuse sitting all by itself was a spare and grabbed it. I went through and tested every individual fuse, fusable link, relay, cable, battery, neutral switch, not knowing that a fuse had been taken out...until i saw it on the wiring diagram....

here is what you i need to pass on to others that are maybe younger, havent had the life experience i have had....dont have kids, or if you have them already, lock all vehicles and hide the keys.

thanks for all the help and advice...having the wiring diagram was invaluable, after approx. 5 hours of trouble shooting, it was fixed in 3 minutes.

 

[robstrevor]

Haha wow. Glad it ended up being simple.

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[Grafton]

now here was the problem, i happen to have a son...

:laugh: ... awesome!!!

:cheers: