[trail Rider]

I've got 105000 miles & a lot of rust underneath. Started the process today of removing the bearings.

Caliper bolts - check
wheel hub bolt - check
ABS connector - check
This is going to be easy, :big_grin:
3 bearing bolts - not so fast. I got a breaker bar & actually got each one to crack loose. It was a pain getting the sockets to fit. However, I am in the process of trying to get the bolts out. Only the breaker bar will continue to get them to budge. Each press down has a ripping sound & there is no let up in the force required. I think I may use a torch in the morning to try & expand the area around the bolts.

Hopefully, I'll continue to make progress, if all goes well I may also replace the rotor & pads.

 

[LUBECAKES]

They are tight! Worst case is you remove them by any means necessary and buy new bolts.

 

[HRTKD]

Did you spray the bolts with penetrant? Just make sure your rotors and pads aren't anywhere close by where the penetrant could get on them.

 

[LSturbointeg]

i did mine off the truck. for me it was much easier access especially when you can use a table bench vise

 

[trail Rider]

I now have all 3 bearing bolts removed. As I thought, getting the hub out proved to be the most difficult step. I had to provide a fairly substantial beating with a sledge hammer. I was a little worried about the splines, but they seem OK. I think I will order new bolts & metal gasket which has a lot of rust & corrosion on it. The heavy metal cover just behind the drive shaft splines is also heavily rusted, but I think I'll let that slide. Hopefully, it will last another 75000 miles.

 

[trail Rider]

Does anyone know where to get that metal flange piece? It just says see sec440 on the schematic.

 

[DeadRiver]

Does anyone know where to get that metal flange piece? It just says see sec440 on the schematic.

Service manual says "splash guard" but does not provide a part number. It's my assumption it's a dealer only item.

Though I founds this on :google: and linked from Autozone :dunno:

 

[DntBrnDPig]

It's a rotor shield - can you just beat it back into shape?

 

[trail Rider]

UPDATE - Need advice

I finally got the front driver side wheel bearing installed along with new rotor & pads. I started her up & the ABS & SLIP lights stay on. In addition, no brake pressure. When installing, I reattached the new ABS sensor plug & didnt open any brake line nipples. No brake fluid leaked. Didn't seem to be any issues during the install.

Yikes, any ideas about this? I never had those lights go on before.

Was thinking maybe some air got in the system when I pushed the rams back in? A simple bleed at that nipple?

 

[LUBECAKES]

Re: UPDATE - Need advice

I finally got the front driver side wheel bearing installed along with new rotor & pads. I started her up & the ABS & SLIP lights stay on. In addition, no brake pressure. When installing, I reattached the new ABS sensor plug & didnt open any brake line nipples. No brake fluid leaked. Didn't seem to be any issues during the install.

Yikes, any ideas about this? I never had those lights go on before.

Was thinking maybe some air got in the system when I pushed the rams back in? A simple bleed at that nipple?

Did you press the brake repeatedly? You have to do do that after installing pads.

 

[HRTKD]

When you backed off the caliper did you make sure the cap on the brake fluid reservoir was open so that there wasn't too much pressure?

Recheck the ABS sensor plug connection. I would hope that it isn't a bad sensor. Connect the sensor to the old bear assembly instead and see if the lights go off.

 

[trail Rider]

Good news - 1st HRTKD, I did not open the reservoir cap. But I just bleed the brakes at the new hub/rotor end & blew out a bunch of air bubbles. I now have brake pressure. I took a little easy spin up the street & the ABS & SLIP lights have gone off.

I'll now begin the front passenger side, much better educated & confident in the process. Man, this is fun, I'm 50ish & its the 1st time I've ever done this kind of job. Lots of smaller stuff & motorcycles, but this was a little intimidating at 1st.

 

[HRTKD]

Last year was the first time for me to replace a wheel hub assembly. I'm in the same age range. I used gear puller along with the BFH and I think it made the job a lot easier.


After you do the other side, consider doing a complete brake fluid flush. I do mine about every two years.

 

[trail Rider]

It was definitely a workout. After 13 years (much in the pacific northWET) the hub bolts were TIGHT. I literally had to beat on the hub for 15-20 minutes with a sledge hammer to get it out. But I'll get it back together tomorrow with fresh parts. Hopefully will be OK for another 13 years or so. Then time for a new one. I'll definitely do the brake flush like you suggest.

 

[HRTKD]

I put a bit of anti-seize on the rim into which the hub assembly goes. That way, just in case I had to replace it again, it wouldn't be quite so difficult to remove.

 

[LSturbointeg]

i know when i did my lift when i had to change out the brake lines with the extended brake lines i ended up just flushing the whole system out. good to hear you got it squared away!

 

[DntBrnDPig]

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