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I have a 2007 4X4 SE crew cab with 127,000 miles, 2.94 rear end gears

OK so pulling away from a stop light I heard a loud thump from the back of the truck and I lost power to the rear wheels. As I have searched on this forum it looks like there have been issues with the differential. I had previously not heard any noise or any other indication that something was coming, just a catastrophic failure. So some questions that I hope you guys can help with:

#1 - When I have it rebuilt can I have the gearing changed to the 3.36 gears and LSD as long as I am having it done anyway?
#2 - If I do #1 above do I also have to change the gear ratio for the front? It would seem logical that I would and if so I will probably just leave the ration the way it is.
#3 - Is it common for the housing to be damaged enough that I will have to replace it as well? I have seen entire replacements on rockauto for about $1,600 but am just wondering if this is common.

Thanks for your help and there are probably things I should have mentioned that I did not even know to ask so if more info would be helpful please ask.

Ralph
 

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A new gear ratio in the rear requires the same gear ratio in the front. There are some shops that can ship an entire axle to you if you can't find someone local to do the repair.
 

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# 1 yes LSD = TrueTrac, which is easiest to do if you don't have the oem e-locker, which has left and right axle shafts of different length.
# 2 yes
# 3 no

"so if more info would be helpful please ask."

Drain the rear differential, remove the rear differential cover and take some photos. If you're lucky, the oem spider gears got shredded and everything else is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
# 1 yes LSD = TrueTrac, which is easiest to do if you don't have the oem e-locker, which has left and right axle shafts of different length.
# 2 yes
# 3 no

"so if more info would be helpful please ask."

Drain the rear differential, remove the rear differential cover and take some photos. If you're lucky, the oem spider gears got shredded and everything else is ok.
So when I took off the cover I discovered that the spider gears where shreded. It looks like the ring gear is fine. So if this is the case then all I should need to do is put in the Truetrac correct? What else gets replaced with the truetrac, i.e. what bearings, races, seals ect. I called a reputable shop hear in Portland Oregon who was referred by a couple people I trust and they said it would be $385 for the labor to rebuild it. He said to make sure I got the right parts to go with truetrac (which he highly recommends) as he thought that the ones that are used for the regular stock carrier may not fit, is that true? Also I noted that there looks like there has been some oil leakage at the ends of my axles so should I assume that new axle seals are needed as well?

Thanks so much
 

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"What else gets replaced with the truetrac"

Check and confirm this with your mechanic:

I think you need two each of these Timken parts:

Carrier bearings JLM704649
Races JLM704610

Maybe ring gear bolts. My 2004 service manual, says the bolts must be replaced, not reused. I dunno why, maybe TTY or something.

"there looks like there has been some oil leakage at the ends of my axles"

Axle seals (from Nissan x 2) and axle bearings with races (Timken Set 10 x 2) . Maybe new rear brake pads and parking brake shoes if they got soaked in gear oil. Replace the check valve vent that sticks up on the top of the rear axle housing (which tends to plug and blow the seals) with a hose vent mod that you can find by searching this forum.

 

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I see that 4X4parts.com has a truetrac with bearings and races for $709 is that a reasonable price? Here is the link: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-19458653-titan-detroit-truetrac-rear-differential-with-races-and-bearings.html Is there a vendor that has a good reputation on this forum as I would like to support those who support this board.
Depends on whether you like to buy stuff from people on ebay:

 

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I looked at that ebay listing and it does look pretty complete. I am fine with buying on ebay and have not really ever gotten burned. I presume the National A-10 is the axle bearing? I think in your write up about changing axle bearing you used the Timken A-10, I would assume that the national is similar quality?

Is the person selling a member of this forum? Not that it really matters that much.

Gotta get this done as I am tired of borrowing a vehicle from someone else.
 

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Well I finally got all the parts ordered. I purchased the Truetrac from the person on ebay which is the same one linked above. Really good guy to deal with. I decided that even though my ring and pinion gear looked to be in ok shape I figured as long as it was opened up then I would switch to the 3.36 gears which of course means I have to do it up front as well. I ordered the gears from Rugged Rocks (no discounts however_with their install kit for the front (the stuff I bought off ebay had everything needed for the rear ..... I hope).

Now the biggest decision to make is which gear oil to use. Advance auto parts has Valvoline Full Synthetic 75W-140 for $10/quart on sale. I certainly don't want to cheap out on gear oil but there seem to be so many opinions on what to use that it is hard to tell. If anyone has an opinion on the Valvoline please let me know as I am spending enough on the project that saving $40 bucks on oil which could cause problems later would not be wise.
 

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So I thought I would check in and close this thread out. Thanks for the advice.

I got my truck back today. Like many projects I started out thinking simple and cheap. I would just replace the spider gears that blew up. Well then I did a little research here and thought well maybe I should replace it with a truetrac for a significant upgrade and to assure that the same problem would not happen again. The next item of scope creep was I also thought as long as it is all torn apart why not just put in a lower gear ratio so I went with the 3.36 which of course lead to the replacement of the front ring and pinion as well. I found a shop that came highly recommended but when I called to schedule they told me they did not do front differentials, luckily I know enough people that after about 6 phone calls I was connected with a guy who only lives about 5 miles from my house who was described by a friend of a friend as "the best gear guy in Oregon" So $800 in labor later and all is well. Cant really tell that much difference from the ratio change yet but I am still breaking them in so I am not getting on it yet. So the only thing left to do at this point is to replace the gear oil at 500 miles and I should be good to go for another 100K miles.

Total cost:
Front and rear ring and pinion and master install kit (for front) from Rugged Rocks $1,061
Truetrac, bearings, seals, parking brake pads $792
Gear Oil $50
Labor $800
Total $2,703

A bit more than I wanted to spend but I think I now have significantly upgraded capability. I am kind of now wishing I would have went with the 3.73 gears but since I was not really unhappy with the 2.94 I am sure the 3.36 will be great.
 
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