[Buttah]

Yea the front is higher but it’s not as bad as that second pic makes it look. I’ll get a better pic soon.
The ride is so damn good. I don’t have the Bilsteins to compare but I’d be shocked if they are drastically better. We’ll have to see how they wear.
Aligned perfectly. I’m having an issue with one of of the UCA ball joint nuts not wanting to tighten all the way to the proper torque but aside from that it’s great.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Yea the front is higher but it’s not as bad as that second pic makes it look. I’ll get a better pic soon.
The ride is so damn good. I don’t have the Bilsteins to compare but I’d be shocked if they are drastically better. We’ll have to see how they wear.
Aligned perfectly. I’m having an issue with one of of the UCA ball joint nuts not wanting to tighten all the way to the proper torque but aside from that it’s great.

it's been a few years but does the stud have room for a wrench or a vice gripe to go on and then use a wrench to tighten down the nut? Otherwise try to zip it on with an impact, or maybe with the weight of the truck on the tire it might help hold the ball joint from spinning?

 

[Buttah]

It actually needed another thick washer. I’m not sure how I feel about the passenger side having a car 1/4” thick washer and the driver having almost 1/2”. Gonna watch that side. I don’t know if the ball joint is seated deeper or the threads aren’t the same but it’s worth watching. If it pisses me off I’ll switch to uniballs

 

[Buttah]

So it’s been a while since I’ve done anything to the Titan. But doing some upgrading now.

I ordered R1 Concepts geomet slotted rotors and their performance towing pads all around,

I’m also looking at tires or tires and rims. I’m going to start a thread in the appropriate section, however, I’m conflicted whether to keep the stock wheels and put a set of nitto grappler 285/70r18 or put a set of 20x10 wheels and 305/55r20 General Grabbers.

 

[Buttah]

Lots of updates, here is the new list of all mods/upgrades/refreshes:


Build / Refresh to date

Exterior:
Exterior:
Dechromed handles
Rocky Ridge Tow Mirrors
ARE Truck Top
Drake D Black headlights
LED Bulbs
Matte Black Running Boards
EAG Grille

A/V:
Alpine ILX-W650 Head Unit
Alpine KTA-450 Amp
Kicker 6x9 components in front doors and dash
Kicker 6.75 components in rear doors
Kicker Hideaway 8 sub
Crux Backup Cam installed into tailgate handle

Suspension:
KYB SR4230K Truck Plus leveling struts (RC 2” billet spacer “preinstalled” on KYB strut and spring assembly)
Supreme Suspensions 3.5” spacer (removed the 2” RC Spacer)
Rocky Road Sway Bar Fix (Partially installed. DO NOT RECOMMEND)
Wulf Upper Control Arms
Moog Alignment Cam Bolts
Moog Lower Control Arms
Supreme Suspensions add a leaf
Supreme Suspensions U bolts
Dorman Leaf Spring Shackles
Rough Country rear shocks
Firestone Airbags (now with 1.25” spacer)

Rear Diff:
Off-road gorilla Rear diff breather kit (Ordered a K&N breather to replace plastic fuel filter)
Mag-Hytec diff cover

Brakes:
R1Concepts Carbon Geomet slotted rotors
R1Concepts Performance off-road / towing pads

Engine:
Removed engine cover
K&N CAI thanks again to Drake D
Oil Catch Can

 

[dubyam]

Couple of questions for you:

How do you like the R1 brakes?

What was the issue with the Rocky Road sway bar fix? (If it is the one I'm thinking of, it's far over-engineered to "fix" a root cause of the sway bar flip problem which doesn't actually exist.)

 

[Buttah]

The R1’s stop a ton better. Too early to say on how well they wear. I pull a camper that’s ~8000 lbs when fully loaded so I wanted more braking capabilities with the bigger tires.

As for the sway bar links. I wanted nothing to do with Rough Country after they sent me UCAs with bushings that weren’t properly seated and when I asked about it I was sent a response that they “should be fine”.
So I wanted the Heims but didn’t feel like trying to figure out which I needed on my own, didn’t want to order through PRG and hope they get here. So I found that setup from Rocky Road but yes it comes with some goofy clamps that are supposed to prevent the the sway bar from sliding side to side. The sway bar already has rings built in to prevent it. When the clamps wouldn’t fit the sway bar anyway I sent a message asking about it. They sent me new clamps but wouldn’t respond to my inquiries as to why they were needed.

 

[dubyam]

Yeah. I built my own heim joint links. Cheap and easy, relatively speaking. Cost me about $60 and sourced primarily from speedwaymotors.com (I'm an old hot rodder so these guys are on my good people list). Mine even have grease zerks on the heims so I can keep them quiet and smooth. You can see what I did here if you need info.

Thanks for the info on R1. Was planning on getting their setup here shortly. If they stop well towing that meets my specs, for sure.

 

[Buttah]

Nice setup. Mine are sturdy but yea big overpay.

 

[dubyam]

Appreciate the compliment.

Sturdy is always good!

 

[busemans]

dang, those home brew look nice and i really like the greaseable option. that's something i could never figure out with the jeep guys, why use stuff that's not greaseable? but those are and look good.

 

[dubyam]

Thanks, Busemans. I enjoy making custom stuff which fits my particular needs, when it's appropriate. It's easy to spend a lot of money for no gain if you're not careful, but in this case it works well and saves coin. This style would fit a stock truck if you turn the heims into each other nearly all the way, as well.

One note: to grease the passenger side takes a 90deg tip or pulling one bolt and flipping it, as the studs are such that the zero is toward the control arm, not the front like on the driver's side. But hey, they've been on six months and I've greased them once, and likely will grease them again at next oil change, so no big deal.

 

[Buttah]

3.5” spacer is definitely not for the faint of heart. Some aggressive coil bucket trimming.

 

[Buttah]

I should have taken more pictures but I did some aggressive grinding of the Pinch Weld and the lip along the bottom. That lip runs along the bottom edge between the pinch weld and the fender flare. I basically cut slots into it so it’d be easier the fold and used a bodywork hammer to coerce it backwards so it was level with the rest of the inner fender. It created about 1.5 - 2” of clearance. I sprayed it with some rust oleum real thick to make sure it got into the cuts.
I then used sheet metal screws and big washers to screw the fender liner back.
My 35’s clear now. They are just rubbing a little on the fender liner where the pinch weld was, the plastic pokes out there. I’m going to heat it up with a heat gun and bend that back.

 

[Buttah]

On a pretty steep hill so it looks like it has more Cali lean than it does. But I’m pretty happy with it. We’ll see how she tows the camper tomorrow.

 

[dubyam]

Looks good (even though I'm not a fan of the Cali lean). Have to ask, what are your wheel specs? They look deep, like a high negative offset, but you're not sticking way out.

 

[Buttah]

It doesn’t have a Cali lean just looks it in that photo. Wheels are 20x10 -25mm