Before you throw parts at it try cleaning your ignition cylinder with Houdini electronic lock cleaner (can be found on Amazon). I don't promise it will work but it's never bad to clean things first and it worked for me after a few months of intermittent no-starts. Mine would just crank and crank but not fire. Thought it was low fuel pressure or a relay, bad ignition, had no idea where to start. 3 mechanics and a stealership visit later I was tearing my hair out just like you are and ultimately fixed it in about 5 minutes for like 10ish bucks. No issues since in almost a year. Damn construction site dust got in there no doubt. Also try a spare key. My original was straight worn out. I thought my tailgate lock was broken but my spare key opened it fine! Turns out it started my truck up fine too! Good luck!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

Matt, appreciate the response. Are you referring to the fix in this post?

Nissan Armada Questions - Nissan Armada Starter issues? - CarGurus

Nissan Armada Starter issues? - On occasion, I go to turn my Armada on and it all lights, radio, instruments, etc come on, but when I turn the key over, I ...

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I've done this with no luck, which is why I've moved on to the relays, since they are cheap.

Maybe I should just replace the ignition switch?

 

I've done this with no luck, which is why I've moved on to the relays, since they are cheap.

spend the 4 dollars a relay and then you can rule that out.
Check the your main grounds (I can't recall if it was my titan or my VW that had "the big three" ground points that needed to be checked).
Also check your ECT. cheap fix. https://www.clubtitan.org/forums/14-technical-discussion/60698-engine-coolant-temp-sensor-ect.html
90+% its either your ECT or your grounds.

here is your entire service manual:

Index of /FSM/Armada/2011

 

Did you ever find a solution for this issue? Having it now and cannot find the relay I think I need.

 

I’m having same issue? All I see is the one ignition relay. Help

 

so do i

 

Just wanting to know if anyone has figured anything out on this issue? I, of coarse, have the same problem with the same ipdm.

 

Sooooo, yes. Like many on here my 2012 Armada had these symptoms a few months back. After thinking all my initial inspections came up empty, I committed to swapping out the starter. Ugh, what a pain in the *** (under the manifold, in the saddle of the V8 cylinders). Long-story-short, it did NOT crank right up. Therefore, I went BACK to the fuzzes/relays.

My model had the updated (black) IPDM and despite MUCH searching, to include asking the local Nissan mechanics and parts department, I couldn't figure why the "starter relay" wasn't easier to locate with all the diagrams online. The answer - Nissan does not allow the swap of this relay with the new IPDM, like many stated previously with the white IPDM. So, I tried to pull what I was confident was the correct relay (top right). DO NOT DO THIS! It came apart in a hundred pieces, because it is not designed to come out. They insist on dropping $300 on a whole new IPDM. Well, I found one on a wrecked Titan a the local junkyard. I yanked a couple relays on 2007-2011 Nissans as well in hopes that one would at least complete my original IPDM.

When I swapped the IPDM, I got some cranking, but no start. A mechanic friend asked me to verify that I am getting enough CCA (cold crank amps) from the battery. Bingo! despite the multimeter reading 12.4, it was not pushing enough CCA. I purchased the 3rd battery in 8 years (just outside the 4 year warranty) for this vehicle and it started up and has run great since.

In the end, was it the starter? Hmm, perhaps, but I am not convinced - plus, I had already worked to get to it, so I was not about to get back under there to reinstall the old one. Was it the IPDM/Relay? Eh, I don't really think so. I am slightly frustrated that I didn't have the battery bench tested earlier. Perhaps it could have saved me just under $400 and about 12-14 hours under the hood. In the end, I learned a bunch about this problem and I hope I can help just a few of you. I think the culprit for me is that my wife takes many short trips in this "grocery-getter" and I don't think the alternator gets a chance to fully recharge the battery. Best of luck, hunters.

 

Thanks for the info. Now that I think about it that may be my problem, battery ran down quickly this weekend when I was testing the blower motor/vbc. May just try that, I sure don't want to mess with that starter. Thanks again.

 

This is a nightmare, we have had the same issue for weeks. We changed out relays which seemed to help for a bit. We cleaned the ignition switch. Battery tested fine. Starter bench tested fine, but just found out that’s not 100% reliable. We had tested the battery multiple times and it was good until we finally got it cranked and AutoZone said alternator good, battery bad. So new battery, cranked right up then click again. When I get the multiple clicks and no start, it seems to help when I wiggle the lines to the battery. So maybe it’s somewhere in the lines or grounding?? Did anyone else find that helped?

 

New battery helped for a short while, but started again. New positive battery terminal (fusible link) helped for a short while, but started again. Checked the ground wire to the battery thinking maybe it was corroded, but it looked fine. Seems to be getting worse lately. If I turn the key back and forth quickly it seems to finally start.

 

2011 armada driver says push shifter over when in park 1/16 of an inch then try to start. I thought I got my truck for a steal, then less then a week after I bought it, it started clicking but push shifter over just a hair starts up every time

 

Same thing with 2011 Titan. I wonder what part needs to be replaced to prevent having to do this. I've bought a new truck and I'm trying to get my Titan to stop doing this so I can sell it.

 

Having the same problem with my 2012 titan sv flex. First the fuse link got blown. Obd scan it to tcm module. I took apart the valve body And found a short to the power supply harness. Meaning I was getting a small grounding to the white cable going to the fuse link. I ordered a refurbished tcm module from China. Not here yet. But my smart *** decided to cut the 2 pink wires from the tcm harness (located on the tranny next to the shifter lever). To see if they were still getting a small ground. Which they were so when I tried to splice and rewire with male to female terminals I ended up plugging them wrong. Since they both cables are pink. I started truck but had a bad idle and would die out. Until click I blew my secondary fuse on the fuss link. I swapped the pink spliced cables and bridged the fuse link with 8 gauge wiring. I started fine but had a wierd idle. Obd tool scanned crankshaft sensor and tcm again. So now I got a short to the maf sensor, crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensors. I think maybe the ipdm got fried or a cable is getting grounded. I'm in an hell of a puzzle now. Last resort is a electric mechanic. I ordered a salvage ipdm on ebay. See what happens next.

 

Well good luck never cut a Titan wire

 

Been having the same issue as everyone else. My boyfriend told me to say "Follow the negative terminal on your battery down to the ground on the chassis, and test with a multimeter in milliamps while cranking. If you experience a loss in amperage then there's a short in the ground. Replace the entire section of the ground to the chassis and it should fix the problem. It's important to have a multimeter to test this. Hope this helps!"

 

 

Technically the "starter relay" is in fact a 'Park/Neutral Safety Relay'. It DOES NOT engage the starter solenoid per say, it is picked up when the key is turned on. I'm not sure which is + or - here, but one side comes from the CPU (+ on my Titan) while the other side for the "starter relay" coil comes through the TCM (- on mine).

 

Obviously, I'm having the no-start click issue. 2012 nissan armada, intermittent for years now it is dead. I also have this black interior, updated fuse/relay box like OP. Since there is no access to the starter relay, is my only option to replace the whole unit??? Has anyone found other fixes with these updated IPDM? They didnt even sticker an updated diagram inside my cover. It still shows the old layout. Bought the car used, not sure if it was converted before the sale of the truck or as a recall but it's strange either way.

I am having the dreaded "no start, just click" issue with my Armada. There are literally hundreds of posts about this. My vehicle will start with no problem 50 times, then suddenly I'll just get a single click. Then, after anywhere from 5-25 tries, it will sluggishly start and be fine again for 50 more starts. The simple fix I've seen over and over again is replacing the starter relay or the ignition relay or both. The problem is, I can't find a definitive diagram that tells me where the starter relay is and where the ignition relay is on a 2011 Armada. I keep coming across two different diagrams of the IPDM. Here is a photo of my IPDM: View attachment 541411

 

I am having the dreaded "no start, just click" issue with my Armada. There are literally hundreds of posts about this. My vehicle will start with no problem 50 times, then suddenly I'll just get a single click. Then, after anywhere from 5-25 tries, it will sluggishly start and be fine again for 50 more starts. The simple fix I've seen over and over again is replacing the starter relay or the ignition relay or both. The problem is, I can't find a definitive diagram that tells me where the starter relay is and where the ignition relay is on a 2011 Armada. I keep coming across two different diagrams of the IPDM. Here is a photo of my IPDM: View attachment 541411 Here is the diagram that I've found that matches the photo of my IPDM: View attachment 541412 So, in the photo, the ignition relay would be the one on the far right, under the yellow fuses. I've replaced that relay, but the problem remains. What I can't figure out is that I keep coming across this diagram online when I search for 2011 Armada IPDM diagram: View attachment 541413 This diagram suggests that there is a ignition relay AND a starter relay on the same IPDM board. But it does not match the layout of my IPDM board. SO the question is, if the first diagram is correct, and I've managed to replace the ignition relay with no luck, where the hell is the starter relay on a 2011 Armada Platinum???

Have you finally located the starter relay? I have the same issue on my 2014 Titan and can’t find it either.

 

Thanks for the info. Now that I think about it that may be my problem, battery ran down quickly this weekend when I was testing the blower motor/vbc. May just try that, I sure don't want to mess with that starter. Thanks again.

Check the main ground points I had the same problem went through three starters before learning my ground point were dirty and had a lot of corrosion. So the battery and the whole electrical system had a bad ground making the starter arch and blowing three starters please save your self the trouble and Check the ground points very cheap fix

 

Whice ground? The main one off the battery or the body grounds?

 

I have the same problem, now it won't start at all. Just clicks. I checked all my relays and replace them as I had to change out that fuse panel also when my light decided to stop working. So I never got rid of the white fuse panel that I took out. It started this morning went to the Dr office and got there and would not start back up just clicked I turned the key probably 150 times. Went to Walmart and got a new battery thinking it might have been the cca since it was kind of cold this morning. Installed still the same problem. Got it towed home. Found a video on how to test the starter. All you need is a jumper wire to plug the starter straight to the battery. I did it and mine just clicked. So my starter is shot. It's a plug at the back of the engine by the fire wall rasy to get to. Look for this video. I attached a screen shot.

 

Have someone found the solution for this i change my fuel pump ground cable the ignition relay even the computer its new and it was working good for a week but today it start doing it again it cranks but wont start i have a 2019 nissan armada platinum the saddest part its that Nissan had it for almost a month and they couldn’t figure it out after $1000 paid i decided to pick it up from them

 

Update for 2011. Do what Anthony T said above and find the Youtube video in his screenshot where a guy shows you how to test your starter by using a jumper to the positive battery terminal. I did this and verified my starter was bad. I replaced my starter and it starts way faster now too. Thanks Anthony for sharing that link!