[superjet98]

New here did alot of reading but want to know what you guys recommend. Truck needs struts, needs to be leveled and new ball joints/ bushings. Everything is loose and bouncy. It is a daily driver and dont want a crazy lift. maybe a couple inches in front and half in the back. I do offroad too on occasion so not just streeted, looking for a good combo.

 

[Walrus]

Search for a thread called "ups and downs" on this site.

 

[honda250xtitan]

search for any 1 of the million threads regarding this topic.



BUT: MOOG sells OEM replacement uppers and lowers, has new bushings and ball joints installed. Then get a set of Bilstein 5100's, set the fronts on the middle setting for 1" lift. You can get a 1" rear block and run the 5100's with those for the rear. anymore height you'll need to switch to the 5125's on the back.

Any higher then 1.5" front lift on a pro4x you'll need aftermarket uppers.

 

[superjet98]

Also planning on going with a 18x9 et:0 wheel with 275/70r18's

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[honda250xtitan]

you'll be fine with that setup. MAYBE need to trim the PWM

 

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New here did alot of reading but want to know what you guys recommend. Truck needs struts, needs to be leveled and new ball joints/ bushings. Everything is loose and bouncy. It is a daily driver and dont want a crazy lift. maybe a couple inches in front and half in the back. I do offroad too on occasion so not just streeted, looking for a good combo.

We have a bushing upper control arm with heavy duty Moog ball joints that works great with the coilover/ leveling lifts. You will commonly get coil bucket contact (CBC) when lifting the Titans a few inches in the front. Our upper control arms will solve that issue as well as putting the alignment back within spec after lifting the front end which is something the factory arms will not do since they are not designed for any sort of lift.

Our bushing style upper control arms are constructed from 4130 chromoly tubing with heavy duty Moog ball joints which makes them extremely strong and able to withstand much more abuse than that of the factory arms. They are completely sealed and feature grease fittings on all pivoting areas to allow the arms to be easily greased in minutes.

Dirt King 2wd/4wd 04-15 Titan Bushing UCAs

Link to our website: Nissan Titan Bushing Upper Control Arms

 

[dubyam]

If you're just having "looseness" in the front end, I'd start with replacing the struts. I have my OEM struts on still, but they've gone away a bit, and will be getting replaced later this year (I hope). I noticed the front end seeming loose on bumpy roads, and on really rough spots at any speed (bridge abutments, potholes, etc.) it can seem like it's wanting to get away from you, but it doesn't really do so, only hints at it. So I talked to my suspension guy, and he asked if I had any noises. I do, a slight popping sound when the suspension articulates in slo-mo (may be there at speed but can't hear it, it's so slight). He grabbed the front wheel and yanked on it top and bottom without any real play, and said, "Your struts are going." I asked him how he knew it was that and he said the wheel is stable, so the ball joints aren't gone, but the looseness and faint popping is the strut. I was a little surprised, but he said he'd bet the farm, and I trust this guy.

So I'd start with struts and go from there. You can always replace the ball joints and/or arms if need be, after you get the new struts on.