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My 2012 Titan 4x4 has 45000 miles and I do not have to tow with it. I have had it since it was brand new never really had a issue until recently. I heats up to the line before hot at a stop light and then cools as soon as you put it in neutral or get going again. If I sit on the brake and rev to 2000 RPM it jumps way up to hot and fast. Has anyone else ever had this issue or know how to eliminate it ? Its doubtful but could this be from the bullydog GT? the reason I ask is my Bully was stolen out of my truck And has never been uninstalled. I contacted then couple months ago and still haven't gotten a response. Other than that my truck was hit slightly in the front bumper but did not hit the transmission cooler that I know of. Thanks in advance for any info.
 

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I'm going to guess you have an obstruction somewhere.

Beyond that, check all your fluid levels. I've had some experience where low fluid would cause heating at idle but coll off when moving with better airflow.
 

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<snip> If I sit on the brake and rev to 2000 RPM it jumps way up to hot and fast. Has anyone else ever had this issue or know how to eliminate it ? <snip> Other than that my truck was hit slightly in the front bumper but did not hit the transmission cooler that I know of. Thanks in advance for any info.
When you say you hold the brake and rev to 2000, are you in Drive? That will heat the fluid fairly fast, as you are causing the transmission to slip. If you are in Neutral, that's not normal...

Check the fan clutch? With the engine hot (and off), see if you can spin the fan by hand. If it spins freely, replace the fan clutch.

Check to see if your front end damage may have crimped a transmission cooler line.

Good luck!
 

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So I checked fluids this morning I topped off the radiator and the transmission is fine had the same issues this morning when stopped in traffic I shift to neutral and it starts dropping transmission tempature. The coolant temp never rises above normal. I looked at the trans cooler I don't see any type of damage what so ever. Will check the fan clutch now.
 

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I let the engine and transmission warm up and the fan does spin has a little bit of resistance but not a lot. It does spin while it is running. Does this mean it's bad ?
 

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Sounds OK. If the engine is hot and you can move it with light resistance - ie, it moves when you are pushing it, but stops as soon as you are not pushing it - but doesn't spin freely, it's probably OK. Need to look in a different direction, I'm afraid.
 

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I'm likely not using the right part name but it sounds like the pump in your transmission is going out. Is that covered by the 5/60 warranty? Might be.
 

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I wouldn't suspect the pump getting knocked out and not having an audible tell or being able to drive it for any extended period of time.
The majority of pump failures I have seen on transmissions is due to improper installation of the transmission. The pump our transmission has is a positive pressure gerator style pump (Thank you Lubes for providing the proper identification of the style of pump I never heard or knew the design name) this is the pump you would want in your transmission opposed to the other styles as this style is less prone to fail.
This is the same pump design the GM 4L80E and a lot of older transmissions use. The newer GM 4L60E use a less beefy fin style pump that I have seen taken out a lot.

I would see about getting my hands on a temperature gun and getting readings from the pan, inlet/return lines transmission and at the cooler to prove if in fact you are overheating the transmission and it is not a electrical problem.
I seen you mentioned about having the bullydog stolen from your truck previously and not being able to unattach the software or w/e they refer to it as.
These are not manual gauges and the sensor is located under the pan if I am recalling correctly. It would not be far fetched that when the bullydog was removed something shorted and is causing the erratic readings.

Does the truck begin to slip when the temperature climbs? Do you notice any difference in performance/shifting when temps are climbing?

Beyond that I would have a transmission line pressure test done to see if you are having any internal problems beyond electrical.

Also there is a aftermarket oversized cooler bypass valve which is located in the valvebody that is a replacement for the factory one that is known to wear and cause overheating among other symptoms Oversized Cooler Bypass Valve Kit - 63741-07K - Sonnax

I am curious to hear your feedback about drive-ability when it is overheating and what your readings are with a temp gun.

Good luck

As HRTKD mentioned I would have any and all work done under the warranty if still covered before you put the headache on yourself.
 

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Aloha
I just purchased a 2012 sv with 55k miles and I’m having this same exact issue. Car drives fine and all temps are normal unless I’m braking and idling in gear for extended periods. I was waiting in traffic and happened to look down and saw my tranny temp was right at the line for “H”. I put it in neutral and it dropped quickly.

Was there ever a resolution to this? I really love the truck. I just put a tonneau cover, optima yellow top, and an air aid mxp cai on her. This problem has me worried now.

-Shawn
 

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Aloha
I just purchased a 2012 sv with 55k miles and I’m having this same exact issue. Car drives fine and all temps are normal unless I’m braking and idling in gear for extended periods. I was waiting in traffic and happened to look down and saw my tranny temp was right at the line for “H”. I put it in neutral and it dropped quickly.

Was there ever a resolution to this? I really love the truck. I just put a tonneau cover, optima yellow top, and an air aid mxp cai on her. This problem has me worried now.

-Shawn
When the engine is up to operating temperature, shut OFF the engine and then try to turn the radiator fan by hand. If it spins easily then the clutch in the fan has failed and needs to be replaced.
 

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I put in the cai yesterday and being a novice I of course had a couple things drop into the engine bay while i was working. One being my 10mm socket, which I recovered, the other being a small metal sleeve from the engine cover. It fell out as I was trying to thread the new bolt through. That I couldn’t find. While my wife and I were looking for it we manually moved the radiator fan and it did move freely fairly easily if that’s what you mean. If I were to try and spin it it would stop on it’s own and wouldn’t spin freely, but it definitely didn’t take a lot of force to manually turn it. Does it sound like the clutch is bad?

Thank you very much for your reply.
 

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I put in the cai yesterday and being a novice I of course had a couple things drop into the engine bay while i was working. One being my 10mm socket, which I recovered, the other being a small metal sleeve from the engine cover. It fell out as I was trying to thread the new bolt through. That I couldn’t find. While my wife and I were looking for it we manually moved the radiator fan and it did move freely fairly easily if that’s what you mean. If I were to try and spin it it would stop on it’s own and wouldn’t spin freely, but it definitely didn’t take a lot of force to manually turn it. Does it sound like the clutch is bad?

Thank you very much for your reply.
The test only works with the engine at operating temperature. The fan is controlled by the temperature of the engine. I think it's called a viscous clutch. The hotter the engine, the more engages the clutch is.
 

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Ok I popped the hood when I got home with the engine still hot. I carefully reached down and the fan blade was quite easy to move.
 

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Replace the clutch. It's not a bad DIY project. While you're in there, consider cleaning the radiator and condenser from the back side. It's hard to do with the shroud and fan in place.
 

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Are aftermarket fan clutches ok or should I stick with oem? Price difference can be huge. Also, how come the coolant temp and oil temps are fine while only the transmission is overheating? You’d think it would all be overheating if the fan wasn’t working properly.
 

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All good questions and I can only speculate with answers. The transmission cooler is sandwiched between the radiator and the A/C condenser. The transmission cooler REALLY needs air movement over the fins for it to do any good. If the engine is warm then all the heat coming off the radiator is filtering back to the transmission cooler. If the A/C is on then that makes it even worse. The radiator is quite good at bleeding off heat, but if you push your luck, it will heat up.

Check the level of the transmission fluid. Also, verify the color of the fluid. It should be a light strawberry color.

I would stick with OEM on the fan clutch. If you need it ASAP and the local dealer can't get it then maybe aftermarket is OK. CourtesyParts.com has been quite good at getting parts to me very quickly, and at a decent price.
 

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That makes sense, I live in Hawaii so the ac is constantly on max. I was contemplating just picking up whatever my local auto parts store had because the stealerships out in the middle of the pacific are even worse than the mainland 48. Oem Nissan off of Amazon after tax and shipping is gonna cost me $152, Nissan will prob be $200. Robbery if you ask me when I can get aftermarket at autozone for less than $80.

I’ve been babying the truck for a day or two and if I’m stopped in traffic or at a light I’ve been shifting into neutral to make sure temps stay low, so I’m hoping I can get away with not changing the water pump too.
 

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That makes sense, I live in Hawaii so the ac is constantly on max. I was contemplating just picking up whatever my local auto parts store had because the stealerships out in the middle of the pacific are even worse than the mainland 48. Oem Nissan off of Amazon after tax and shipping is gonna cost me $152, Nissan will prob be $200. Robbery if you ask me when I can get aftermarket at autozone for less than $80.

I’ve been babying the truck for a day or two and if I’m stopped in traffic or at a light I’ve been shifting into neutral to make sure temps stay low, so I’m hoping I can get away with not changing the water pump too.
Did you ever solve this issue? Experiencing the exact same problem with my 2012 Armada.
 
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