2013 Titan Driveline Vibration

4242 Views 18 Replies 8 Participants Last post by TheHops, May 13, 2016

eboat2010

Discussion Starter · Apr 12, 2016

Greetings Fellow Titans!

I am new to this forum as of this post. I come before you all to hopefully gain some insight of the nasty driveline vibration that is occurring in my 2013 Titan SV king cab truck. Here's the history:

1. Bought the used 2013 certified truck in 2014 from a Nissan dealer. Mileage at purchased 26K.

2. I have enjoyed the truck with no issues and maintain the overall care of the truck.

3. Over the last 6 months now I'm at 53K, there is a vibration affecting the middle of the truck seat area.

4. Tires are in good shape and have been rotated and balanced every 5K miles. Recently tires were balanced 2 times within a 2 week period. Vibration still occurs in the truck seat area.

5. I've seen threads/stories on the web regarding this driveline vibration. I have spoken to the Nissan dealership and they said, "its one of those things with the Titan".

Is the dealership correct that I own a truck vibrator? Are there any possible solutions to correct the issue?

I appreciate your feedback.

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

HRTKD

· #2 · Apr 12, 2016

Dealerships are lazy unless you have gobs of money.

Check the carrier bearing. It's between the transmission and the axle along the drive shaft. This assumes you are 4x2 and not 4x4. Then check for play in all the u-joints. The OEM shocks are generally considered junk. A new set of shocks may help but you really need to identify the source of the vibration.

The passenger front seat has a tendency to oscillate on many Titans. There is a DIY fix for it but I never did it on mine.

TheHops

· #3 · Apr 12, 2016

HRTKD said:
Dealerships are lazy unless you have gobs of money.

Check the carrier bearing. It's between the transmission and the axle along the drive shaft. This assumes you are 4x2 and not 4x4. Then check for play in all the u-joints. The OEM shocks are generally considered junk. A new set of shocks may help but you really need to identify the source of the vibration.

The passenger front seat has a tendency to oscillate on many Titans. There is a DIY fix for it but I never did it on mine.

Awesome, I thought I was the only person with a possessed front passenger seat. It looks like there's an invisible person having a seizure in it. I may need to try and find that fix.

I too have some vibration, and have had it pretty much since I've owned the truck. I just ordered some 2.5 degree shims last week. They should be here today or tomorrow. I'm hoping those will solve the issue.

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

eboat2010

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 13, 2016

Thanks for the suggestions and I will investigate and update you soon. I am interested in the post that mentions installing shims and hope an update will be posted.

TheHops

· #5 · Apr 13, 2016

eboat2010 said:
Thanks for the suggestions and I will investigate and update you soon. I am interested in the post that mentions installing shims and hope an update will be posted.

They come in today. I'm hoping I'll be able to get them put in after work Thursday or on my day off on Friday. Once I get them on I'll report back! :cheers:

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

thumperpaul

· #6 · Apr 13, 2016

Torn tranny mount?

eboat2010

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 28, 2016

thumperpaul said:
Torn tranny mount?

I have visited two different Nissan dealerships regarding the driveline vibration and they have both mentioned shims seem to be the answer. I even spoke to a Nissan tech and he had a 2012 Titan and installed the shims and seemed to help. I wanted to find out if TheHops on this blog who responded to my post has installed his shims and did they make a difference?

eboat2010

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 28, 2016

TheHops said:
They come in today. I'm hoping I'll be able to get them put in after work Thursday or on my day off on Friday. Once I get them on I'll report back! :cheers:

I have visited two different Nissan dealerships regarding the driveline vibration and they have both mentioned shims seem to be the answer. I even spoke to a Nissan tech and he had a 2012 Titan and installed the shims and seemed to help. I wanted to find out if TheHops on this blog who responded to my post has installed his shims and did they make a difference?

LUBECAKES

· #9 · Apr 29, 2016

The shims do help!

TheHops

· #10 · Apr 29, 2016

eboat2010 said:
I have visited two different Nissan dealerships regarding the driveline vibration and they have both mentioned shims seem to be the answer. I even spoke to a Nissan tech and he had a 2012 Titan and installed the shims and seemed to help. I wanted to find out if TheHops on this blog who responded to my post has installed his shims and did they make a difference?

I haven't gotten them in yet. I had one side completely in before I found out my center pins would be too short. As for the other side, I was unable to loosen the U bolts so I'm going to need to gain access to some air tools and a deep socket before I tackle that again. I'm going to try and set aside a day next weekend getting it done if I can find some longer center pins. As for the side I was able to get in, I can definitely tell it would rotate the axle to a more favorable position. I don't know if it would completely eliminate my vibration, but it would definitely help.

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

Justinyzfr1

· #11 · May 3, 2016

Any updates? I have a 2006 LE Off Road edition that I am losing my mind over what seems to be a driveshaft related vibration. My truck has all new motor and trans mounts, rear oem leaf packs, new nissan rear end, all new moog superjoints, full front end, brand new wheels and tires with hub centric rings, etc and it still vibrates the passenger mirror and seat like its possesed. Any help on this would be great. Oh yeah, all new rancho quicklift kit also.

Pale Rider

· #12 · May 3, 2016

same here, passenger seat has a ghost passenger in it and the right side BT mirror distorts from the vibration.
as far as I can tell, everything underneath looks normal.

HRTKD

· #13 · May 3, 2016

Has the driveshaft lost the balancing weights?

Justinyzfr1

· #14 · May 4, 2016

Im pretty sure the driveshaft hasnt lost its weights. I towed an E55 the other day on my car trailer and it felt smooth as silk. Im wondering if I need to put a spacer on the driveshaft as if I had a lift. Its the most annoying vibration Ive ever felt. I swear my Frontier Prox has done the same thing since it was brand new. Im wondering wth is up with these damn things

Walrus

· #15 · May 4, 2016

Justinyzfr1 said:
Im pretty sure the driveshaft hasnt lost its weights. I towed an E55 the other day on my car trailer and it felt smooth as silk. Im wondering if I need to put a spacer on the driveshaft as if I had a lift. Its the most annoying vibration Ive ever felt. I swear my Frontier Prox has done the same thing since it was brand new. Im wondering wth is up with these damn things

How much squat did you get? The D/S gets shorter as the truck squats. This is D/S related.

eboat2010

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 5, 2016

I had a 2011 Frontier SL and didn't have vibration issues like what we're all commenting on with our Titans. As I mentioned in my early post, two of the Nissan dealerships techs said this is one of the faults with the Titans and shims seem to be the answer to reduce or eliminate the vibration. I agree, it's not an enjoyable ride with your interior cab vibrates!

Justinyzfr1

· #17 · May 5, 2016

So youre saying the rear end needs angled more up in the front? Where do you get these shims? Im just surprised because mine is stock height with a brand new rear and leafs from nissan. Im interested in this because Im about to get rid of the truck because of this

TheHops

· #18 · May 13, 2016

So, it took me forever but I finally got my shims in. My centering pins are a hair too narrow, and I feel like I should have gotten slightly larger shims so I'll probably be redoing it, but even as is I have to say it cut my vibration in half. My rear view and side mirrors no longer "buzz" (it would distort the headlights of vehicles behind me), and the passenger seat no longer looks like it has a seizing ghost sitting in it. It still vibrates a bit, but it doesn't *shake* like it used to. All in all, I definitely recommend getting shims for any lifted Ts that have bad vibration.

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

TheHops

· #19 · May 13, 2016

Justinyzfr1 said:
So youre saying the rear end needs angled more up in the front? Where do you get these shims? Im just surprised because mine is stock height with a brand new rear and leafs from nissan. Im interested in this because Im about to get rid of the truck because of this

Basically, you want the point where your driveshaft attaches to the transmission up front, and where it attaches to the differential in the rear, to be as parallel as possible to each other. I made the mistake of thinking that having the rear parallel to the driveshaft was optimal, but it's all about the relation between the front and the rear. If you could have your transmission, driveshaft, and differential all perfectly in line that is the perfect scenario, but it's unrealistic with most applications, particularly if lifted.

Don't mess with the front, just try and get your pinion angle (rear) to match your transmission angle (front). You do this by shimming your leaf springs (fat side of the wedge to the rear), to rotate the entire rear axle and differential, downward (counterclockwise if looking at the left side of the vehicle, clockwise if looking at the right side). They sell shims at quite a few online vendors. I think I went through an ebay vendor for mine. Just google "leaf spring shims." You will also most likely need longer "leaf spring centering pins." I *think* the proper size for Titans is 3/8. I thought it was 5/16 so I picked up some 5/16 pins that were 6 inches long, and trimmed them to size. It worked, but there was a bit more wiggle room than I was comfortable with. That being said, those ubolts are torqued on so tight that they're not going anywhere regardless.

Since I just did this project like 3 hours ago, if you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll do my best to answer.

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:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

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