2017 Titan Trailer hitch
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HI Bulleye
I am in the same boat or worse new truck and can't hook up the boat. Did you figure anything out? I need to add hitch and trailer light connector would like to be as factory if possible.
Thanks for info.
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1,417 Posts
Why don't you order it from your dealer?
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334 Posts
Curt 13304 - Class III 8000lb hitch ~$160
Curt 57000 - relays kit ~$20
Hopkins 40974 - OE style trailer connector ~$30
Easy install, looks factory
or Buy the factory kit from Nissan MSRP $430 999T5W3110
Curt 57000 - relays kit ~$20
Hopkins 40974 - OE style trailer connector ~$30
Easy install, looks factory
or Buy the factory kit from Nissan MSRP $430 999T5W3110
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23,329 Posts
If the OEM factory hitch for the 2017 is anything like the OEM hitch for the 2007 then it will be a Class IV hitch, not a class III. Then again, if you don't already have the hitch then you may not have all the components to pull the maximum weight and the Class III hitch will be "good enough".
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175 Posts
I like the ease of buying factory, but money is always a factor for us in life. If close in price I would go to dealer at twice for the same thing I would go aftermarket.
The after market plug looks like the exact one that fits in the factory bumper whole I see in the metal, easy cut the plastic and stick it in. Great to hear I have simple options that have worked for after market. I am asking dealer for reduced pricing on some stuff, but not sure that is going to work out so well since the price I paid for the truck was so low they might not like me anymore.
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Okay did a little more home work on this. All viable but I do have one question. I saw the here for curtis
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-hitch-2017-nissan-titan-c13304.aspx
and looked at pictures of factory on line attached it, and clearly there is more pipe exposed on Curtis
Any comments from Curtis hitch owners those that installed the factory one.
Update to add photo of bumper back side where the trailer wiring plug inserts. Looks like 5-10 minutes with the dremel tool to zip through the plastic and in the relays.
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175 Posts
Well I just found the instruction for the factory hitch, no thanks...The hitch replaces the sub-metal of the bumper so you have to take it all apart. No reason to do that besides it didn't seem to increase the load numbers over the Curt hitch option. So that will be my pick.
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175 Posts
Curt 13304 - Class III 8000lb hitch ~$160 (I ordered Anythingauto $)155 free delivery scheduled for 2 days
Curt 57000 - relays kit ~$20 (still looking) Found ebay 4 day delivery free ship $19.15
Hopkins 40974 - OE style trailer connector ~$30 (advanceauto $22 with tax online with coupon pickup at store same day
Will install hitch later this week.
Curt 57000 - relays kit ~$20 (still looking) Found ebay 4 day delivery free ship $19.15
Hopkins 40974 - OE style trailer connector ~$30 (advanceauto $22 with tax online with coupon pickup at store same day
Will install hitch later this week.
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334 Posts
Amazon has the relays
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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175 Posts
Was hoping to find them local, but did ebay as it was free ship so was cheaper and just as fast since I don't have the amazon prime shipping.
Thanks again
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Hitch arrived. I ordered this at 8 AM Monday and it was on my door at 10:45 AM next day. Now that is fast shipping on an item this big. They have them warehoused in Dallas TX area and sent FedEx for free which I guess is one day for us here in Austin. I would think this is a drop ship item for the sellers but not sure anyway that was fast shipping. Looks good.
Time to go pickup the plug and get it in first so I don't get hitch in my way.
Time to go pickup the plug and get it in first so I don't get hitch in my way.
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175 Posts
Put the hitch and trailer plug on and thought I would share my trick to doing the job for those that might want to do this as a DYI. The instructions looked fair as I skimmed them after the fact so I am not going to do a detailed step by step.
First I did the plug, my SV base had the 7 pin plug hanging on the back of bumper with a cap. There is a hole already punched in metal behind the plastic cover where you see the factory plug on trucks. I used a drimel tool with an attachment that looks like a drill bit that is for cutting stuff like this plastic. Takes about 3 minutes if you are being careful, punch a hole from inside and then work from outside. If you don't have a dremel tool they sell a bit for a regular drill that will do similar job. The plug will pop into hole and clamp on to the plastic, the clips are not short enough to get on top of the metal but seem to hold good.
You are going to need a break over bar or more muscle than I have or impact if you are so lucky to have one handy as factory bolts are tight and you want some good torque when on the new ones.
Trick for making it easy as I think it can be:
I saw a few posts where they said they couldn't get it past the exhaust without dropping the hanger. This is not a fact, but you do have to use a good approach and this will help if you are doing this alone. After removing the tow hooks from the frame use a ratchet strap strung across the frame member to bumper and let it hang on either side. Lay your hitch under the back of truck on the box it came in and hook ratchet strap inside and under the hitch and hook in hole in plate that lines up with the pipe going across. Now ratchet the strap just a little so it is hanging, at this point you want to swing the exhaust side out and guide the front most part of hitch so that you can swing back into place near the hole.
Now you should be hanging roughly in place maybe a couple of more ratchets up and guide the front hole by exhaust in place for the first bolt. Turn it in by hand several turns so it won't fall out but not too far as you want plenty of slack to align all the rest of bolts. Next front on the other side and then one more back bolt each side you should be able to lift and stab them fairly easy. Now get the all the bolts started several turns, then slowly work around tightening a couple of turns. If you try to tighten one bolt all the way up you will most likely find yourself with a bolt against the edge of hitch and you could be messing up the threads a little so take you time.
Finally if doing this by hand take a break and get your torque wrench or break over bar and be sure to work your way around and get them all tight. You might want to check them after first tow.
First I did the plug, my SV base had the 7 pin plug hanging on the back of bumper with a cap. There is a hole already punched in metal behind the plastic cover where you see the factory plug on trucks. I used a drimel tool with an attachment that looks like a drill bit that is for cutting stuff like this plastic. Takes about 3 minutes if you are being careful, punch a hole from inside and then work from outside. If you don't have a dremel tool they sell a bit for a regular drill that will do similar job. The plug will pop into hole and clamp on to the plastic, the clips are not short enough to get on top of the metal but seem to hold good.
You are going to need a break over bar or more muscle than I have or impact if you are so lucky to have one handy as factory bolts are tight and you want some good torque when on the new ones.
Trick for making it easy as I think it can be:
I saw a few posts where they said they couldn't get it past the exhaust without dropping the hanger. This is not a fact, but you do have to use a good approach and this will help if you are doing this alone. After removing the tow hooks from the frame use a ratchet strap strung across the frame member to bumper and let it hang on either side. Lay your hitch under the back of truck on the box it came in and hook ratchet strap inside and under the hitch and hook in hole in plate that lines up with the pipe going across. Now ratchet the strap just a little so it is hanging, at this point you want to swing the exhaust side out and guide the front most part of hitch so that you can swing back into place near the hole.
Now you should be hanging roughly in place maybe a couple of more ratchets up and guide the front hole by exhaust in place for the first bolt. Turn it in by hand several turns so it won't fall out but not too far as you want plenty of slack to align all the rest of bolts. Next front on the other side and then one more back bolt each side you should be able to lift and stab them fairly easy. Now get the all the bolts started several turns, then slowly work around tightening a couple of turns. If you try to tighten one bolt all the way up you will most likely find yourself with a bolt against the edge of hitch and you could be messing up the threads a little so take you time.
Finally if doing this by hand take a break and get your torque wrench or break over bar and be sure to work your way around and get them all tight. You might want to check them after first tow.
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175 Posts
All done. These hitches are probably twice the thickness of the frame material. I am pretty sure you would damage the frame before the hitch breaks. If not better than factory it should be at least as strong. You see a little pipe in front of spare tire where they factory hitch is actually part of the bumper support.
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My relays showed up in the mail so I went to install them and found they were already there new from factory without the trailer package. So check before you buy unless you want a set of spares.
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Great write up patrickxfl, thank you for all the great info.
My question is will this hitch work with the OEM bed step ?
Genuine Nissan 999T7-W4820 Rear Bumper Step Assist
My question is will this hitch work with the OEM bed step ?
Genuine Nissan 999T7-W4820 Rear Bumper Step Assist
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I have no information on the step as I have never considered. Do you have the instructions for installing? I could probably tell you by looking at them.
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These are the instructions.
https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/asistgc_1/USENG/diskdocs/1/V/C/1VC14.PDF
I wonder if the spacer part labeled as "E" gets removed to allow space for the hitch mount depth. thank you for your time and help.
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