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2018 SV Starting Issues - Please Help

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11K views 57 replies 19 participants last post by  2018titanSVxd  
#1 ·
I’ve reached the end of my patience with my 2018 SV. I’ve taken it to the 2 best mechanics I know and they are at a loss also.
Here’s my issue: truck will start fine several different times in a row and everything seems normal. Then the next start will be nothing but a click. The screen comes on and the radio will play, but it will not crank. If I hit the lock and unlock a few times on my remote and then start it, it will eventually start.
When it does start normally the Bluetooth will only connect about half the time. I’ve disconnect and reconnected the Bluetooth to my phone and my wife’s and still get the same issue.
I recently replaced the battery a couple of months ago. For a week or so it started flawlessly. Now it’s back to the same problems as before. Starter and alternator are both testing fine. I’ve replaced both the break switch and the ASCD switch that are both located at the top of the break pedal that have caused similar issues to other Titan owners.
Nothing is helping. If anyone has any suggestions I’d love to hear them.
 
#44 ·
Sir, I was having a similar problem but I found out it was my security being tripped by an alarm system that I didn't even know was installed. I pulled all of that system out of my truck and it hasn't done that to me anymore so I'm pretty sure that was the problem. You might check to see if your alarm or security device might be doing it to your vehicle. Hope that helps sir.
 
#47 ·
I’ve reached the end of my patience with my 2018 SV. I’ve taken it to the 2 best mechanics I know and they are at a loss also.
Here’s my issue: truck will start fine several different times in a row and everything seems normal. Then the next start will be nothing but a click. The screen comes on and the radio will play, but it will not crank. If I hit the lock and unlock a few times on my remote and then start it, it will eventually start.
When it does start normally the Bluetooth will only connect about half the time. I’ve disconnect and reconnected the Bluetooth to my phone and my wife’s and still get the same issue.
I recently replaced the battery a couple of months ago. For a week or so it started flawlessly. Now it’s back to the same problems as before. Starter and alternator are both testing fine. I’ve replaced both the break switch and the ASCD switch that are both located at the top of the break pedal that have caused similar issues to other Titan owners.
Nothing is helping. If anyone has any suggestions I’d love to hear them.
change your battery cable ends at the battery
 
#48 ·
Figured I’d throw my experience in here as well. New to the forum but have scoured all the topics trying to diagnose the same issues many here seem to be happening.

Rewind 8 or so months ago, I began having the issues you mentioned. I’d drive 45-60 mins to work and it’d struggle to start or wouldn’t. Took it to Nissan and battery tested fine (this would be the theme over the months). Was told by the dealership “you’re probably not driving long enough to turn on the vehicle variable charging system (VVCS),” and “turn on your headlights and A/C while driving to get it to charge the battery.” They also advised about the depinning of it was the VVCS, but something I would have to get in at a later date.

Well it’s winter now and without the A/C compressor being on all the time, headlights on wasn’t enough to trick the VVCS to charge and I’ve been dealing with a completely dead battery….so dead that even a jump required 10-15 mins before it would turn over. I’d drive over an hour, park for 15 minutes and return to a dead truck.

Got it back to Nissan (for the 4th time) and it finally failed to start for them. Initial Diagnostic said it was driveshaft/crankshaft sensor failures and needed replacement. After seeing this forum this replacement solved the problems for a few, and out of a combination of convenience and my ignorance that the dealership was correct that this would solve the issue, I had them replaced for a lovely $1300.

The truck lasted a day before it wouldn’t start again. Took it back and said “the battery has to be the issue.” With as many times as I’ve cycled it, jumped it and ran it dead, there was zero way it was healthy. Second diagnosis, they said the battery was fine and it was the starter. After some back and forth with Nissan and the dealership, we compromised an 80/20 cost for a new starter since it was part of the issue prior to warranty expiration. So, new starter installed for $200.

Got home and read the tech notes and thought it was interesting and somewhat frustrating that they still had no clue. Tech stated “started the truck 6 times before the truck wouldn’t turn over….starter internally failing, recommend replacement.” They also indicated that the battery even after replacing the starter was only registering 500-550CCA until the 6th test where it hit 650CCA and “passed”.

This time the truck lasted 2 days before being completely dead again. Last visit consisted of me telling them to depin the system and I wanted a new battery installed. New battery =$200 /w prorated cost and found out the truck VVCS had been depinned the prior visit, which only confirmed my suspicion it may have been the battery this whole time.

Now the charging system has the truck sitting ~ 14.1-2v (based on the digital gauge on the dash). No more fluctuations for the VVCS trying to decide when and how much to charge the battery.

I’ve only had the truck back for a day so I’ll update if this combo new battery/depinning has solved the dead truck issue.
 
#49 ·
Figured I’d throw my experience in here as well. New to the forum but have scoured all the topics trying to diagnose the same issues many here seem to be happening.

Rewind 8 or so months ago, I began having the issues you mentioned. I’d drive 45-60 mins to work and it’d struggle to start or wouldn’t. Took it to Nissan and battery tested fine (this would be the theme over the months). Was told by the dealership “you’re probably not driving long enough to turn on the vehicle variable charging system (VVCS),” and “turn on your headlights and A/C while driving to get it to charge the battery.” They also advised about the depinning of it was the VVCS, but something I would have to get in at a later date.

Well it’s winter now and without the A/C compressor being on all the time, headlights on wasn’t enough to trick the VVCS to charge and I’ve been dealing with a completely dead battery….so dead that even a jump required 10-15 mins before it would turn over. I’d drive over an hour, park for 15 minutes and return to a dead truck.

Got it back to Nissan (for the 4th time) and it finally failed to start for them. Initial Diagnostic said it was driveshaft/crankshaft sensor failures and needed replacement. After seeing this forum this replacement solved the problems for a few, and out of a combination of convenience and my ignorance that the dealership was correct that this would solve the issue, I had them replaced for a lovely $1300.

The truck lasted a day before it wouldn’t start again. Took it back and said “the battery has to be the issue.” With as many times as I’ve cycled it, jumped it and ran it dead, there was zero way it was healthy. Second diagnosis, they said the battery was fine and it was the starter. After some back and forth with Nissan and the dealership, we compromised an 80/20 cost for a new starter since it was part of the issue prior to warranty expiration. So, new starter installed for $200.

Got home and read the tech notes and thought it was interesting and somewhat frustrating that they still had no clue. Tech stated “started the truck 6 times before the truck wouldn’t turn over….starter internally failing, recommend replacement.” They also indicated that the battery even after replacing the starter was only registering 500-550CCA until the 6th test where it hit 650CCA and “passed”.

This time the truck lasted 2 days before being completely dead again. Last visit consisted of me telling them to depin the system and I wanted a new battery installed. New battery =$200 /w prorated cost and found out the truck VVCS had been depinned the prior visit, which only confirmed my suspicion it may have been the battery this whole time.

Now the charging system has the truck sitting ~ 14.1-2v (based on the digital gauge on the dash). No more fluctuations for the VVCS trying to decide when and how much to charge the battery.

I’ve only had the truck back for a day so I’ll update if this combo new battery/depinning has solved the dead truck issue.
get rid of those battery cable ends