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I was thinking I needed to remove that clip that is circled, but when I got to messing around with it it sounded like it wanted to break so I didn’t fiddle with it too hard, it’ll pop out and pop right back in? Is it a clip like one of the 4 that is holding the trim piece?
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I was thinking I needed to remove that clip that is circled, but when I got to messing around with it it sounded like it wanted to break so I didn’t fiddle with it too hard, it’ll pop out and pop right back in? Is it a clip like one of the 4 that is holding the trim piece?
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No it's a soft plastic push clip. I thought the same thing, but it came out with some force and went back in securely. Twice actually.

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Even if it does break, they sell them on Amazon. 10 for $10.

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Pry up with a flat head until you can get needle nose under the edges.

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I ran out of daylight around 8:15 CT so I’m going to continue in the morning. Appreciate the help and tips @Nismomike, I don’t have a spanner wrench but I do have a crescent wrench that I can probably get situated up there. Hopefully I can get that clip out without destroying it and appreciate the replacements on Amazon. I feel like the passenger side will be a breeze compared to the driver side
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I ran out of daylight around 8:15 CT so I’m going to continue in the morning. Appreciate the help and tips @Nismomike, I don’t have a spanner wrench but I do have a crescent wrench that I can probably get situated up there. Hopefully I can get that clip out without destroying it and appreciate the replacements on Amazon. I feel like the passenger side will be a breeze compared to the driver side
Yes, it is much easier not having that one push clip. I was gonna throw my shocks on after work one day, until I ran into that clip. I ordered a bag of replacements that night assuming I would break it for sure. My truck was only a month old, so maybe that helped it not to break. But once you get it out, it's smooth sailing. I think I actually used a standard socket on a breaker bar to hold the inside bolt.
Tomorrow morning I'll be throwing on the rear 1.5" blocks and longer u-bolts along with adjusting the front struts to the 1.1" lift setting. Ordered Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 305/65r18 today and I'd like to get them installed next weekend.

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Yes, it is much easier not having that one push clip. I was gonna throw my shocks on after work one day, until I ran into that clip. I ordered a bag of replacements that night assuming I would break it for sure. My truck was only a month old, so maybe that helped it not to break. But once you get it out, it's smooth sailing. I think I actually used a standard socket on a breaker bar to hold the inside bolt.
Tomorrow morning I'll be throwing on the rear 1.5" blocks and longer u-bolts along with adjusting the front struts to the 0.7" lift setting. Ordered Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 305/65r18 today and I'd like to get them installed next weekend.

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Took a 12 hr break and got back after it, thanks for the tips @Nismomike, your input made my task easier. I didn’t have a socket extension so I just stuck my deep socket on the spare tire lowering tool end and that worked just fine on the top bolts on both sides. I also dropped my spare tire because on the driver side I didn’t have a direct line of sight or room to maneuver because of my tail pipe that exits on that side. Dropping the spare tire opened up all kinds of room.

Excited to see what you get done today @Nismomike, also did you get new wheels with the tires? I’ll probably order the cam bolts and sway bar links sometime this week and eventually 6100s for the front but I’m going to ride the stock Bilsteins up front for now. My rear was just soooo stiff after the 3” lift, to the point it was annoying hearing the clunk and how uncomfortable it felt going over the slightest of bumps in the road so I had to do something about it.

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Took a 12 hr break and got back after it, thanks for the tips @Nismomike, your input made my task easier.
Glad it all went together for you. I hope you get the ride improvement you were hoping for.
I had a long day with the truck. Some good, some bad. I received my JBA Catback this week and wanted to throw it on first thing this morning. Well, unfortunately one of the hangers was not welded in the correct location, and the y pipe flanges were not aligned properly. So after removing the stock exhaust, I realized I wasn't gonna be able to make it work without a welder. Pretty lame of JBA tbh. Now I have to pay an exhaust shop to do the install. I guess I might as well have it completely welded at this point. So, stock exhaust had to go back on. Complete waste of time. Also wanted to change my oil this weekend. After all that, I went ahead and installed the 1.5" rear lift blocks. Went smooth as expected. Decided to postpone adjusting the struts this weekend. Truck is back to its factory rake +1.75" rear. Ride is still dialed. Really pleased with how everything is turning out. I'm a little worried the strut adjustment is gonna have a negative impact on ride and CV angle, I just hope it's not too much. Struts will be set to 1.1" next Saturday morning and my new tires are getting installed that afternoon.



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on those plastic push clip zip ties, you can also slide those angle nose wire cutters (cutting end is about 3/4 or an inch long) under the squeeze the ends closed a hair to grab under the flange and wiggle up. that's how i always used to get the ones on the bmws when the kids and i used to have them. they actually work good on all those tree looking push in plastic clips lots of manufacturers use now days
 

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Glad it all went together for you. I hope you get the ride improvement you were hoping for.
I had a long day with the truck. Some good, some bad. I received my JBA Catback this week and wanted to throw it on first thing this morning. Well, unfortunately one of the hangers was not welded in the correct location, and the y pipe flanges were not aligned properly. So after removing the stock exhaust, I realized I wasn't gonna be able to make it work without a welder. Pretty lame of JBA tbh. Now I have to pay an exhaust shop to do the install. I guess I might as well have it completely welded at this point. So, stock exhaust had to go back on. Complete waste of time. Also wanted to change my oil this weekend. After all that, I went ahead and installed the 1.5" rear lift blocks. Went smooth as expected. Decided to postpone adjusting the struts this weekend. Truck is back to its factory rake +1.75" rear. Ride is still dialed. Really pleased with how everything is turning out. I'm a little worried the strut adjustment is gonna have a negative impact on ride and CV angle, I just hope it's not too much. Struts will be set to 1.1" next Saturday morning and my new tires are getting installed that afternoon.



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Man, you're buying all the stuff I've been looking at. Dealer replaced the exhaust tubing aft of my muffler because it was rattling and now the truck has exhaust drone. Turns out the new Titans don't have the resonator on the exhaust anymore so I'm stuck with it. Thinking about the JBA and then adding a Vibrant resonator or maybe just a Borla ProXS and resonator.
 

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Took a 12 hr break and got back after it, thanks for the tips @Nismomike, your input made my task easier. I didn’t have a socket extension so I just stuck my deep socket on the spare tire lowering tool end and that worked just fine on the top bolts on both sides. I also dropped my spare tire because on the driver side I didn’t have a direct line of sight or room to maneuver because of my tail pipe that exits on that side. Dropping the spare tire opened up all kinds of room.

Excited to see what you get done today @Nismomike, also did you get new wheels with the tires? I’ll probably order the cam bolts and sway bar links sometime this week and eventually 6100s for the front but I’m going to ride the stock Bilsteins up front for now. My rear was just soooo stiff after the 3” lift, to the point it was annoying hearing the clunk and how uncomfortable it felt going over the slightest of bumps in the road so I had to do something about it.

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How them Billy's treating you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Man, you're buying all the stuff I've been looking at. Dealer replaced the exhaust tubing aft of my muffler because it was rattling and now the truck has exhaust drone. Turns out the new Titans don't have the resonator on the exhaust anymore so I'm stuck with it. Thinking about the JBA and then adding a Vibrant resonator or maybe just a Borla ProXS and resonator.
I was torn between the Stillen dual out the back with black tips, and the JBA kit. Decided on the JBA due to better departure angle and ended up painting the tips black with high temp engine enamel. It will probably chip pretty quickly, but it looks great for now. Should be installed soon. I don't want a loud exhaust, and the JBA gets high marks for drone control. I'll add the Vibrant resonator if it's too obnoxious.


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Were you able to adjust the Billys up to 1.1? Your making me want to buy the 6100 over the 5100. You see any benefit of the 5160 in the rear over say the 5125?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Were you able to adjust the Billys up to 1.1? Your making me want to buy the 6100 over the 5100. You see any benefit of the 5160 in the rear over say the 5125?
Unfortunately we had some heavy rain and storms last weekend in Phoenix and the power was out in the shop. I should get it done this weekend. Saturday I'm getting the new tires installed, so I'm planning on adjusting the struts Sunday morning. I don't know if the 5160's are worth the extra $ unless you plan to tow or if you're doing a lot of offroad. The 5160 is rebuildable unlike the 5100. The 5160 also has a lower charge pressure which is supposed to give a smoother ride. I have not ridden in a half ton with 5100's, so no point of reference. The 5160 shocks cost about $150 more, and the upgraded reservoir brackets are another $90.

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