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4 Hi considered a bad idea in a straight line and nothing but? For example 4 Hi launch for drag racing, Although it is stated not to go over 62 mph or something like that in the owners manual. Don't see much driveline bind in that perspective other than the front axle / tires are under power of the engine as well, not just free rolling.
 

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4 Hi considered a bad idea in a straight line and nothing but? For example 4 Hi launch for drag racing, Although it is stated not to go over 62 mph or something like that in the owners manual. Don't see much driveline bind in that perspective other than the front axle / tires are under power of the engine as well, not just free rolling.
If you tire/rim specs are the same on all 4 corners (and you're confident they're all wearing evenly), then sure - 4X4 bind in the drivetrain would be negligible in a drag racing application (i.e. straight line).

Not that knowing this would make me feel any more comfortable about it...the real issue here is you're using 4X4 to minimise loss of traction from a full throttle launch (on a high traction surface)... the probability of breaking a drivetrain component is possibly higher than from 4X4 bind up anyway :crying:

In any case, a 4X4 launch is much preferred over a 4X2 launch as the stresses in the rear drivetrain will shared with the front drivetrain... which leads into an interesting question; what is the load distribution in this instance 50/50, 60/30...80/20 ???
 

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I took a look at the t-case picture, and I'm firmly of the belief there's a whole lot more to the story than what's been alleged. I've driven 4x's for something like 30yrs, abused them in all sorts of ways, taking them places they had no business going. I even managed to get an old Bronco of mine into a catywampus position that proved to exert enough force on both front wheels to shut the motor down in 4hi, no matter how much throttle I applied while releasing the clutch. Of course, 4lo worked fine (more torque) and I managed to get out without breaking anything significant. But shutting the motor down in 4hi (with some pretty high throttle attempts) certainly placed significant stress and bind on the old Dana 20 t-case. You'll all be happy to know that t-case handled it just fine.

It's my guess that there was very likely too much fluid in the t-case in that picture, and it was run hard on dry pavement through some very curvy areas, if that's what caused the failure. I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't significant impact to the case itself, as well. We'll likely never know.

Is it safe/good to run 4hi on dry pavement? No. Will it cause your t-case to explode? No. It might grenade a gear or trash some bearings, but the u-joint is going to give out long before the case breaks open. That's really the weak link, anyway, and partially by design. U-joints are cheap and easy to replace, so if they go, it saves expensive parts that are harder to replace. Kind of acts like a fuse in the system.
 
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I'm firmly of the belief there's a whole lot more to the story than what's been alleged.
Gotta say I wholeheartedly agree with you dubyam... as I stated in an earlier post
"I'd suggest this has occurred due to some other inherent issue like fatigue, heat or impact for which bind-up was merely a contributing factor to the actual failure."

What concerns me is that this thread is potentially generating a lot of unwarranted fear about using 4WD...

I think it should be cleared up;
Don't hesitate for a second to use 4WD if you're trying to prevent traction loss (really the only time you're going to need it anyway!)... Particularly if you're doing so for safety reasons (e.g. snow or ice).

Your vehicle has been designed around the conditions that would necessitate the use of 4WD and can be used accordingly.
 

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The thing that scares me is the gears in our front axles are supposedly aluminum!? What the heck is that!? Im afraid of blowin my front differential apart honestly, which usually only happens in trying to pull a stuck vehicle in reverse (big NO-NO with 4x4) or you get it to the point to where neither of the front wheels can break traction and the motor just over powers and tears stuff up.

In my opinion, make the differential strong, let me break something cheap like a CV first...
 

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Uhhh... I think you might be mistaken with the housing being cast aluminium (not the gears)... don't quote me on this, but it'd be very unusual to use aluminium (or aluminum for you Yanks) for any drivetrain gearset.
 

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Yeah i may be mistaken, but aside from that, the fact is we have weak differentials / axles. Scares me when going offroading for sure.
 

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Yeah i may be mistaken, but aside from that, the fact is we have weak differentials / axles. Scares me when going offroading for sure.
See I'm not so convinced about the 'weak differentials/axles' thing... and I'm definitely not trolling with this - hear me out.

When I first bought my Titan and started visiting the forums, I was FREAKED out I'd made a bad choice and started worrying I'm gonna blow the entire bottom end out the truck when I start working it hard in the snow... the more I read, the worse my anxiety became UNTIL; I read a post from an ex Nissan employee who kind of put things back into perspective.

The crux of what he was saying was;
YES - there are a SIGNIFICANT number of members in these forums who have, without doubt, had terrible experiences with the Titan's drivetrain and are incredibly frustrated with Nissan's response to their issues BUT, by the very same token there logically has to be a far larger percentage of Titan owners who haven't had drivetrain issues at all...

Keeping in mind that human nature dictates we're more likely to post a negative experience than a positive one, I'd happily bet that far less than 5% of all Titans made have experienced drivetrain failure (else there would have been class action, recalls etc) which leaves you with far better odds (95:5) of not failing a drivetrain component...

Again, if someone can provide evidence otherwise I'm happy to be proven wrong... I'm not suggesting for a second that these are the actual figures, just my own personal take!

Oh, and if it provides any support to the point I'm making - I have a Bachelors in Mech. Engineering and work as a Maintenance Engineer:)
 

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Yeah i hear what you are saying and i know that most people that post on forums are due to issues they are having. You are right the people posting on these forums are a small percentage of all the Titan owners.

I just have the thought in the back of my head because i have 2 close friends of mine that have had similar experiences to those on this forum. One of them being a Titan owner got stuck offroading and ended up blowing the front dif pretty bad and had to get a new front axle... the other has a newer body style Pathfinder who blew his rear dif out twice and the front dif 4 times...

When talking to an offroad shop who is very reputable and popular in this area about things i should know problem wise with the titan... the first thing that came out was be careful if you take it offroad the front dif's are weak and can fail if you get it to the point where the front tires are locked up and you cant break traction. They have replaced a number of them in both the pathfinder and titans.

Dont get me wrong i know things are going to fail if you are going to push it hard and see what its made of... good thing i baby my truck, but always one of my concerns when ever i decide to play around on some hill climbs or trails.
 

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I'm liking the discussion ATT... my interest is piqued on this topic. Did your mates have any mod's at all??
I know their are genuine cases where someone's driveline failed dropping their Grandmother off at church but I'm also not sure people understand the implications that even the most basic mods can have on mechanical components.
Tires are a classic example... the factory standard height tire for most Titans is ~32-33" and I'd hazard a guess the most common mod for the 4X4 Titan enthusiast (and even some 4X2's) is to throw a set of 35"s or larger on - more often for aesthetics than any real practicality from my observations.
Combine this with a lift kit and a new air intake to give it that little bit more oomph and you've now got;
- a tire that takes a little bit more torque to spin
- a tire that has a little bit more traction than stock
- an engine with a little bit more power
All those 'little bits' add up to a 'lot more' stress introduced into the drivetrain coupled with a lot more offroad capability and a sure fire recipe for failure... even if you only installed 35"s, the resulting drivetrain stress would quite noticeable.
There's quite a few comments in these forums about the noticeable lag in acceleration from a standstill after installing 35"s... that right there is the effect of increased stress (the engine isn't making any less hp).

This is one of the reasons I'll keep my Titan on 33"s, levelled and with minimal performance mods... just as a safeguard against over reaching when I do work it hard offroad.
 

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You do have a good point there... bigger tires = more rotational mass and more stress on the drive train.

I guess it would be good to point out the Titan had a stage 2 Pro Comp 6" lift on 35" Mud Grapplers, Banks Exhaust with a cold air intake. Pathfinder blew twice with 4" lift on 33's... the other times were with 6" of lift on 35's.. straight piped exhaust.

I guess my big thing is i cant lift my truck and take it offroad without having to worry about blowing something in the driveline vs my friend who has a 2004 9" lifted silverado on 36's.. engine swapped with 6.0 Vortec Max.. beats the crap outta that thing offroad. He has put everything to the test on that truck. Does not let off if he cant make a hill climb or mud pit literally will try everything to make it.... ive heard the rev limiter a number of times on a few different hills with the thing bouncin and jumpin all over. Only thing hes had to replace was the motor cause it sucked in water and a CV axle because they are at a terrible angle.

The Titan has tons of potential in 4x4 and definitely will make some things look very easy, but when it comes to being a little more aggressive on the throttle... i usually just back down :tongue:
 

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Just got my titan and I love it, its an 09 BIG OL CAB, no cruise control :( but still great looking!! Used them in the military when my buddy and I would off road on the tank trails on FT HOOD. Only got stuck once, sucked muddy watter in the engine, water coming in the windows. He sloshed around for about 1/4 of a tank and a few of our Tshirts as air filters and we were out!!

But to the broken case, for the most part (just numbers people can understand not actual gears) for a truck/car to work your engine drives a 2,000 rpm at the crankshaft your transmission slows it to 1000rpm at the drive shaft then the rear diff T's off spliting the power to 500rpm at the tires.
Thats 2 wheel drive...

Now here is 4x4 (4wheel drive) same as above except there is another transmission (for simplicity for non mechanics) this transmission is mounted backward.... 2,000 rpm from the engine 1000 from the trans (800 for 2nd trans) and 500 to the rear, here is the kicker the front and rear gears are not the same gear ratio you have a 1-1 or 1:1 on the rear but if it was the same in the front then the tires front and rear would be spinning a diff speeds well then you would split your case like that guy did. The front is 1-1.25 or 1:1.25 to make up for the 1000 and 800 rpm transmissions... Why you ask, thats crazy!! Well this way your slowing down more (on original manual 4x4s) while the engine is working a little bit harder. The engine puts its best torque and HP at a certain point, so when we build up your 4x4s we dyno for those numbers then do the math for the right tire size and gear ratios. So that when your manually shift into a 4x4 you get unstuck with ease. Some people who DIY things get info from a buddy on another car maker and use it for the car they have. Does not always work... They will take the front and rear gears out and slap the same gears in both. When all along the transfer case (2nd transmission was not made for that high/low of a gear.

All the time 4x4 cars/trucks have the same gears in the front and rear, and the 2nd transmission is made just so they spin at the same time. With a 4x4lo option that will work just like your original trans being put into 1st gear vr drive. Engine revs more, truck goes slower.

Now I said all that to say this.... This was I hope... to help get a better pic of how things are working under your car. All cars are a tad diff and very much the same. Thats why alot of mechanics are trained on everything and can fix anything (except those darn computers)

I had an 86 F150 manual locking hubs, transfer was stuck in 4x4 for 9mths (waiting for tax money to fix $$$) went 0-78mph with no issues for 6thousand miles. When march came, turned out the shift linkage was off... didnt need the money in the end. Just to lazy to get under and look i guess (to young to care then)
 

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I moved to South Carolina from Colorado about 2 years ago. The only time my truck has been in 4WD since then was to make sure it still worked. Never on dry pavement it feels like something could snap any minute.


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i put mine in 4 HI whenever i pull the boat trailer out of the water, just for a workout, and when needed offroad or in inclement weather.
 

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Wow, talk about beating a dead horse! I don´t know what they teach in school these days. I am a hs dropout and can smoke some green and watch the ceiling fan spin. Yes, the inside of the fan blade takes the same time to go around as the outside of the blade. However, the outside of the fan blade must travel over a larger area. Please look up! See the circle it travels is bigger. The inside of the fan blade made the same rotation in the same time but traveled less distance. Now, take the same idea when you are drunk driving around in circles late one night in wal-mart parking lot. When you make a circle the inside tires travel a shorter distance. Which means the inside tires turn less rotations than the outside tires. Try to do it with your smart phone. Grab it horizontal (long ways like your computer screen faces you) then flip it 90* (one quarter of a turn) Now, with your right hand only continue to rotate 45* (one eighth of a turn) BAMM!!!! Your screen broke. That´s like making a left hand turn when everything is locked in 4wd.
Of course there are other equations in the mix: VDC, anti slip, E=MC2.. But like I said I am a hs dropout. K.I.S.S.
 

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The Titan's diff's are much tougher then you think. I have done 1000's of burnoffs. Burnoff's that should have broke the rear end. Like wet/dry patches on pavement where the tire spins then grabs hard all of a sudden. Plus numerous 1/4 miles runs in 4WD. And I'm not alone. There was more than 1 Titan at the drags. StormTroopin was there also. He has done 1-110 runs in 4WD numerous times.

I stated over 7 years ago on this forum that I guarantied my rearend would not break. And guess what?? It hasn't. In fact it is very hard not to do burnoff's everytime I drive it. Sometimes on dry pavement it breaks loose in 2nd gear just going around a corner. Trying to pass someone at 40-50MPH on wet pavement more often than not it breaks loose. Towing on dry pavement anything over 1/4 throttle it spins from a stop. Burnoff's are normal with this truck. If mine hasn't broke most likely yours won't either. IMHO

I need a Tru-Trac bad.

But 1 thing to remember here I broke-in the rearend when it was new.
 

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I've been driving 4X4's my entire life and have never had issues with damage as long as you follow the speed rules and watch your turns. When it's raining I use it to pull out on curves or uphill. The same reason in ice and snow and it always helps. Unless you are making a very sharp turn you can do it. Reading some of the comments that using it in rain and snow won't help is bunk. And even with ice it does help. I've had my truck in 4X4 and switched it off on a curve on ice and all hell broke loose. In 4X4 you have the front wheel pulling the truck thru curves helping the rear(much like a front wheel drive vehicle). Without 4X4 you are just pushing thru and your front wheels can be pushed into loosing traction.
 

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Reading some of the comments that using it in rain and snow won't help is bunk. And even with ice it does help. I've had my truck in 4X4 and switched it off on a curve on ice and all hell broke loose.
Not sure who was making those comments dave, but I've got a hill right outside my driveway that I'd love to see anyone conquer in 2WD... I wouldn't have had a chance this morning if it wasn't for 4H; wicked ice/snow mix that even in 4H it was spinning every corner and trying to crab itself off into the drain!

And I've still not had any issues with the Titans front diff yet (touch wood)... through the Winter it's in and out at every intersection and I suspect I'll wear out the engagement solenoid before the diff goes. It's definitely a little grumblier in 4x4 but I've put that down as normal (impossible to hear with the radio on).

Will update this thread if it does fail prematurely.
 

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Some of the original posters made comments about the issues I addressed.


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