Boobsley - I like your new look. I want to do the same thing to my 2007 T 2WD. I currently have Bills set on 2nd perch. The 4x4 moogs are sitting the garage waiting to go into action. Before I install them, I have a couple of questions:
(1) Regarding the grey insulators that wrapped around the base of the springs that you were asking about, how did that get resolved?
(2) Does middle perch make the ride too rough?
(3) What are your measurements at the front and rear fenders.
Great job on the pics! My truck is also Brawny Red and KC too. Our trucks could be twins..Thanks for your posting.
Boobsley - I like your new look. I want to do the same thing to my 2007 T 2WD. I currently have Bills set on 2nd perch. The 4x4 moogs are sitting the garage waiting to go into action. Before I install them, I have a couple of questions:
(1) Regarding the grey insulators that wrapped around the base of the springs that you were asking about, how did that get resolved?
(2) Does middle perch make the ride too rough?
(3) What are your measurements at the front and rear fenders.
Great job on the pics! My truck is also Brawny Red and KC too. Our trucks could be twins..Thanks for your posting.
1. Has to disassemble OEMs to get the isolator.
2. I love the ride. Stiffer from the 08 springs, but smoother over potholes, speed bumps & such.
3. I’ll have to get measurements later & post them for you. To the eye it looks even, but I did a quick measure on the from driver side last night on uneven driveway. It was 38.75 I think.
I am not sure your results will be the same as mine is 4x4.
I haven't read the entire thread, but I see where a lot of people have had trouble compressing the springs. When I put Bilstein 5100 struts on my old Ram, I rented 2 sets of spring compressors. That allowed me to use 3 on each spring which made it a lot easier and safer IMO. I also have air tools and used a pneumatic rachet wrench which made it even easier. Just something to consider
Sorry if this has already been discussed... I skimmed though, but didn't read all 88 pages in their entirety.
Can anyone tell me the significance of the direction of the washers? I had a shop install 5100's w/Moog 08+ springs (81198), and they put the washers in the opposite direction than what is shown here. They also have the springs oriented differently, than specified here. My understanding is the spring orientation is to avoid possible contact issues, but I'm not having contact issues and don't see anything that could possibly make contact with the spring/perch.
I want to make sure I avoid any potential issues, but I'm sure a shop isn't going to redo the work because a washer is backwards or the spring isn't oriented how I'd like, if it's not actually causing an issue, or I can prove a potential issue.
I'm just trying to understand how these can effect ride quality, or longevity, etc...
Spring orientation would not be a big deal, however, if the washers are not placed correctly and in the correct order, the strut will push through the top of the bushing and ruin the struts. If they followed the directions supplied by Bilstein, and did not reuse the OEM washer in the correct position, the install is wrong.
....With the 5100's set on the bottom setting, it was a much improved ride over stock. Soaked up bumps amazingly with less sway in the corners, but it was still a little too much for me.
My current setup is with the 5100's set on the middle perch and the ride is amazing. Minimal lean with a very solid feeling over bumps. Extremely happy with it.
With 08 4x4 springs and 5100's on the second setting I was at 39.5." I added a 2" spacer but dropped the spring to the first setting and now i'm at 41." So the springs only added .5" from bottom to middle setting. The ride is noticeably better on the first notch, but it still has that "truck" feel to it. I also don't run my swaybar.
Spring orientation would not be a big deal, however, if the washers are not placed correctly and in the correct order, the strut will push through the top of the bushing and ruin the struts. If they followed the directions supplied by Bilstein, and did not reuse the OEM washer in the correct position, the install is wrong.
Everything is in the correct order... only the washers are flipped in the opposite direction, so that they contour the rubber bushings, rather than what is shown here, where the contours of the washers face opposite the rubber bushings.
I just installed these tonight. They would have been easy had I jacked up both sides at once. Because I had only one side up I had to disconnect the sway bar. Once I jacked the other side up and got the pressure off the bolt went right back into the hole almost on its own.
There's an old abandoned shopping center with a parking lot bad enough to rival some serious mud holes. Before, due to lack of upward travel in the suspension, I had to crawl through it and could feel the truck bottoming out on every hole. I was able to drive over 30mph through it tonight and only bottomed out on one really large hole. The truck ride is GREATLY improved to the point I wonder why Nissan didn't do this from the start.
Anyway, the current 5100s gave me 2" lift in the front which brought it to a half inch lower than the front. I'm very happy, so thanks to the OP since that's what gave me the courage to do it!
I was able to get my 5100's installed in the Seattle area for $228 from a reputable off-road shop.
I like the 5100's, but they seem about as good as my OEM were when new.
The only thing the OEM didn't handle well was rebound (the OEM struts in front could handle the initial impact of a speed bump well, but going over the bump when the suspension would be rebounding the truck would make a "whack" or "thud" sound), I need to get some more miles on my 5100's to see how they handle rebound.
I was able to get my 5100's installed in the Seattle area for $228 from a reputable off-road shop.
I like the 5100's, but they seem about as good as my OEM were when new.
The only thing the OEM didn't handle well was rebound (the OEM struts in front could handle the initial impact of a speed bump well, but going over the bump when the suspension would be rebounding the truck would make a "whack" or "thud" sound), I need to get some more miles on my 5100's to see how they handle rebound.
If I pulled into my driveway at a moderate speed my truck would thud. I looked years ago and there was only about an inch and a half of travel between the stops.
So is the consensus with the 5100's on a stock 4x4 to use the lowest setting in front or should I go to the middle setting? If I go to the middle setting will I need an alignment afterwards to adjust camber? I have a 2015 SL Crew Cab and am getting ready to do the 5100's front and rear.
If you change the struts, wisdom is to get an alignment (regardless of where you set the height). Changing out front suspension pieces will affect geometry most of the time, and the strut is a suspension piece.
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