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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm ready to get my truck lifted. The only thing that's holding me back is whether I can fit my truck into my garage once it's lifted.



How many of you out there that has a 6" lift with the 35" tires fit their truck into their garage?



Thanks.
 

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Your truck will be 82"-84" at the highest point once you lift it. How high is you garage door opening? My guess is about 7ft so you are not going to make it. Some folks have bigger door openings so I would definately measure and then just lift your truck anyways and park it outside like the rest of us.
 

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TitanTailGator said:
it's a truck...lift it, leave it outside and don't wash it. 'cept for holidays like the watermelon parade or when someone's gettin hitched.
Haha, can I use this quote on our new site?
 

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i have 6" pro comp and 35's and a small garage door,Mine fits no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
deviantpines said:
i have 6" pro comp and 35's and a small garage door,Mine fits no problem.
By small, I don't know if you're referring to a singkle car garage or that the height of your garage door opening is small. The standard opening is 7' I believe. My truck which isn't lifted fits with about 4 inches to spare.
 

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my stock titan doesn't fit in my garage, but the door height is only about 6.5'

typical garages are 7' as mentioned but with the SUV trend being what it is, architecturally i've been trying to make the garages taller.. if the client wants to pay, and jack the first floor up.. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DeadRiver said:
my stock titan doesn't fit in my garage, but the door height is only about 6.5'

typical garages are 7' as mentioned but with the SUV trend being what it is, architecturally i've been trying to make the garages taller.. if the client wants to pay, and jack the first floor up.. good luck!
So are you an architect or in home construction?

If so maybe you can give me some advice...

I have high ceilings. 10' high 1st and 2nd floor.

Gararge is probably more like 11-12'. It's just the entry point that is 7'. I wouldn't think it would have much impact to the structural integrity just to cut a foot higher in the garage entry since it's vertical and there is plenty of space to increase.

I spoke with a contractor, and he indicated that I would need a structural engineer to certify the modification and would cost around $700 for this. The actual job would be close to $2000. This seem kind of high to me. Any advice?

Thanks
 

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kotackchi said:
So are you an architect or in home construction?

If so maybe you can give me some advice...

I have high ceilings. 10' high 1st and 2nd floor.

Gararge is probably more like 11-12'. It's just the entry point that is 7'. I wouldn't think it would have much impact to the structural integrity just to cut a foot higher in the garage entry since it's vertical and there is plenty of space to increase.

I spoke with a contractor, and he indicated that I would need a structural engineer to certify the modification and would cost around $700 for this. The actual job would be close to $2000. This seem kind of high to me. Any advice?

Thanks
I'm an architect doing 99% commercial work. The prices you've been quoted are actually very resonable. A typical engineer will bill himself at 125-150 per hour and by the time he comes out and looks at your structure, does his calcs, draws a plans and seals it, you can bet it'll be at least a days worth of efforts. Basically the engineer has to size the header for above the garage door to carry the load of the structure above. I would think the same size member could be used since the span hasn't changed. In addition the engineer will probably also include shoring details, so while they are removing the header your home doesn't colapse. The contractor needs the engineer because most townships won't accept a structural change without a design professionals seal, it'll make the project go smoother.

Just make sure the contractor is covering everything including repairs to interior finishes damaged as a result of construction. It's not a huge job, just a complicated proceedure. Does that include a new garage door and associated hardware? Does it also include fixing the exterior materials and trim? If so you're getting a pretty sweet deal. It should only take him 2-3 days at the most. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
DeadRiver said:
I'm an architect doing 99% commercial work. The prices you've been quoted are actually very resonable. A typical engineer will bill himself at 125-150 per hour and by the time he comes out and looks at your structure, does his calcs, draws a plans and seals it, you can bet it'll be at least a days worth of efforts. Basically the engineer has to size the header for above the garage door to carry the load of the structure above. I would think the same size member could be used since the span hasn't changed. In addition the engineer will probably also include shoring details, so while they are removing the header your home doesn't colapse. The contractor needs the engineer because most townships won't accept a structural change without a design professionals seal, it'll make the project go smoother.

Just make sure the contractor is covering everything including repairs to interior finishes damaged as a result of construction. It's not a huge job, just a complicated proceedure. Does that include a new garage door and associated hardware? Does it also include fixing the exterior materials and trim? If so you're getting a pretty sweet deal. It should only take him 2-3 days at the most. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for that info. I guess my lift would have to wait since it doesn't justify spending $3000 for the lift and tires + $3000 for modifying the garage. I can buy a pretty decent used car for that money....:p
 

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kotackchi said:
Thanks for that info. I guess my lift would have to wait since it doesn't justify spending $3000 for the lift and tires + $3000 for modifying the garage. I can buy a pretty decent used car for that money....:p
you could get a cheap truck cover though!

my neighbor and I share a 2 car garage at our duplex.. she parks her car on her side and my side is full of surfboards, snowboards, atv, and my tools, plus an old snowblower... but it's organized and clean!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
DeadRiver said:
you could get a cheap truck cover though!

my neighbor and I share a 2 car garage at our duplex.. she parks her car on her side and my side is full of surfboards, snowboards, atv, and my tools, plus an old snowblower... but it's organized and clean!
You lose the convenience and security with a car cover. I need to find one of my old friends that I lost touch with...she an architect. :D
 

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I just lifted mine a week ago 07,BT,OR, using the 6 inch procomp lift, and 35 inch Cepek's FCII's and it fits with a little room to spare in my 7' garage door. The antenna hits the door a little but thats it. :evillaugh
 

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HEY BIGJ,

how you like those tires?? they loud?? do they ride smooth?
thanks,
fd
 

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I am usually a Bfg fan until I saw these. I wanted something a little more aggressive than the At's. So far I like them, they handle well and the noise is very minimal. I haven't had them in any weather yet (rain, or snow), been a little dry here. hopefully they will be good in snow and ice.
 

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BigJ said:
I am usually a Bfg fan until I saw these. I wanted something a little more aggressive than the At's. So far I like them, they handle well and the noise is very minimal. I haven't had them in any weather yet (rain, or snow), been a little dry here. hopefully they will be good in snow and ice.
I noticed they make those in 35 and 37 and it would be nice to have a quieter 37 - but like you wanted more aggressive than the BfgAT - thanks for the info. Fd
 

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A little late of a reply, but my Titan has a fabtech 6" lift with 35's and it will clear 6'9" comfortably. 6'8" may be a little too close for comfort.:cheers:
 
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