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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, looking for some help. You may notice the same post on club titan, but just looking for as much help as I can get.

I have a 13 cc 4wd. I put a 6" RC with 6" RC Lift struts last week and I have a few issues. First the lower control arm nuts and washers are garbage, I swapped them out with grade 8 and put the stank on them (just for information for those who have a popping sound over bumps or turning/braking, the controls arms will move with RC hardware).
My current problem is as follows. The truck has not be aligned yet, but she sure is sketchy to drive. Bump steer, memory steer and a general wonkyness to drive.
I'm wondering if those with experience could telle if this is just the jacked up alignment (or lack thereof) or am I missing necessary upgrades like prg end links (what would those do to improve anything anyway?) Or do I need a drop pitman or idler arm? ( Does this truck even have those?)
I know ignorant, I'm new to Titans but I'm willing to learn and own some wrenches. Guidance would be much appreciated.
The plan is to fit 20x10-24 w/ 37x12.5
Thank you for your help and letting me join the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update for those interested.

So the pop was loose cam bolts on the lca. They need to be TIGHT AF. Torque standard is 1/2 round before breaking.

Truck rides sweet, same or better than stock. There is a little body roll, nothing crazy. The lift makes your truck feel 2x the size, like driving a F350.

No tires yet. Wheels are 20x10-24. Would like advice on 37s if anyone can share.
 

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Update for those interested.

So the pop was loose cam bolts on the lca. They need to be TIGHT AF. Torque standard is 1/2 round before breaking.

Truck rides sweet, same or better than stock. There is a little body roll, nothing crazy. The lift makes your truck feel 2x the size, like driving a F350.

No tires yet. Wheels are 20x10-24. Would like advice on 37s if anyone can share.
Got any pictures?! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the question is 35 vs 37. It's gonna b tight on 37s....we'll see

Also the RC cam bolts are Straight garbage. They have been torqued to hell and they still slide. So you will need new cam bolts with this kit, or reuse stockers, I junked a stock one during removal and wallered it out.

Over all, the RC kit is good, but some things need to be upgraded. For the $, even with the needed upgrades it's still the way to go.
 

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Man tha
So the question is 35 vs 37. It's gonna b tight on 37s....we'll see

Also the RC cam bolts are Straight garbage. They have been torqued to hell and they still slide. So you will need new cam bolts with this kit, or reuse stockers, I junked a stock one during removal and wallered it out.

Over all, the RC kit is good, but some things need to be upgraded. For the $, even with the needed upgrades it's still the way to go.
This is the witness marks from the bolt sliding just FYI
Okay! I am at work at the moment. I will reply some more later today! I have the RC 6 inch kit I will be putting on this weekend. Now, on to the LCA’s the best fix. If you have around $80 laying around. I would highly recommend you purchase these cam bolts from PRG


This will be a great fix for that issue. I will be putting my lift on this weekend. I will let you know how it goes! I have some questions for you, but they can wait until this afternoon!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To me it seems jacked, it a major difference from stock, but with tires it will sit 2-3" taller than it does now. I was looking to make the truck useless, at the current height the bed is still usable to me. At 10" the truck is just a toy.

I did not want a body lift, it borderline on the mullet requirement as is.

I bought moog cam bolts from AutoZone with 20% off, available in stock and a lifetime warranty it seemed like a better fit for me. They are the same D channel style as those shown from PRG.

I keep hearing to leave the seat bar off. I may try that and see how it drives.

Word of caution, if your truck is a daily... Be prepared to replace the struts. There is a high probably that your stock strut nut will be seized and not removable. One of my broke and yes we used pb blaster.

Given the cost, I ordered the RC lift struts... And it is what I would recommend. They remove the strut spacer, which can fail and also does not ride as nice. With the RC struts and shocks I couldn't believe how nice the truck rides... Better or same as my stock SL, which to me is a posh riding truck already.
 

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Pictures do no justice, but man it looks kinda low to me. I would like my truck higher. We will see once the kit is installed!
To me it seems jacked, it a major difference from stock, but with tires it will sit 2-3" taller than it does now. I was looking to make the truck useless, at the current height the bed is still usable to me. At 10" the truck is just a toy.

I did not want a body lift, it borderline on the mullet requirement as is.

I bought moog cam bolts from AutoZone with 20% off, available in stock and a lifetime warranty it seemed like a better fit for me. They are the same D channel style as those shown from PRG.

I keep hearing to leave the seat bar off. I may try that and see how it drives.

Word of caution, if your truck is a daily... Be prepared to replace the struts. There is a high probably that your stock strut nut will be seized and not removable. One of my broke and yes we used pb blaster.

Given the cost, I ordered the RC lift struts... And it is what I would recommend. They remove the strut spacer, which can fail and also does not ride as nice. With the RC struts and shocks I couldn't believe how nice the truck rides... Better or same as my stock SL, which to me is a posh riding truck already.
Just to confirm. Did you load the n3 6 inch struts with the coil from the stock strut? Or did you buy new coils to put on the n3 6 inch struts? I am thinking about using my stock oem coil from my old non lifted struts and putting the stock oem coil on my lifted struts. As well as all the old hardware from the stock oem struts. I’ve never really heard of coil springs going bad... Either way, I am NOT using a lift spacer on my struts!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes stock SL coil, which is supposedly the same as the pro4x. Coils last long long time, no need to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
New strut comes with new hardware.

I forgot to mention my other issue. My truck had a nissmo 1" replacement strut cap. I had to buy new moog caps
 

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Th
And the RC hardware isn't perfect for that so I had to make a few little changes
The N3 6 inch struts I have came with two rubber insulators and the two washers. They didn’t come with any tower. Just a nut. Anyway I will be installing the kit this weekend. I will take pictures and post them. I am going to be installing the 6 inch lift along with the Dirt King Fabrication Upper control arms. I will let you know how it goes! If I have any issues at all I will ask them. Thank god I found someone who actually has the same life as me. Any questions I have at all, I will ask you. Thanks so much man!

Also, in the event it is not enough lift for me, I wonder what options I have to get more lift? Without a body lift of course!
 

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Also, how tight are the stock bolts and nuts!? I am getting a can of PB blaster, but I don’t have any impact wrenches. So I’m probably going to bust my a** if they are very tight. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Stock not that tight. The struts just get seized and will break the nut off. Nothing you can do if that happens. The torque spec that I used was 1/2 round before it breaks.

The stock hub bolts are tight as shiznit though. Just use two wrenches piggy backed to multiply torque. I thought about uca, but it's not necessary unless you plan to do alot of jumps.
 
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