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Discussion Starter #21
I don't know why my posts don't post on time...

You could stack a spacer but I think that jacks the preload. When we tried to put my kit together with the nissmo strut caps it wasn't happening. We might could have gotten the knuckle on to the uca but it would have ridden like garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Since the new bolts have washers on both sides it shouldn't matter which side is which should it? I thought I put them in right, but the RC cam bolts only have one washer on one side... Junk
 

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Since the new bolts have washers on both sides it shouldn't matter which side is which should it? I thought I put them in right, but the RC cam bolts only have one washer on one side... Junk
No man, both of your cam bolts need
to be facing forward I’m almost 100% positive! I will take some pictures when I install the kit.
 

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Since the new bolts have washers on both sides it shouldn't matter which side is which should it? I thought I put them in right, but the RC cam bolts only have one washer on one side... Junk
542690


Just a follow up. As you can see this is a front cross member.Cams are facing forward in the front with washer locked between adjustment groves. I remember reading about that. That’s why I brought it up!
 

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View attachment 542690

Just a follow up. As you can see this is a front cross member.Cams are facing forward in the front with washer locked between adjustment groves. I remember reading about that. That’s why I brought it up!
The reason you put the cam bolts facing forward is because those grooves on the cross member prevent the cam bolts from sliding around. If you tighten it the other way you are putting more torque on the front of the cam bolts and when in the wrong way will not go to together right.
 

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The RC bracket has the camber stops welded front and back.
We will see how it goes. Today I am getting my truck jacked up and on jack stands. Tomorrow I will start removing all the old stuff and putting lift on. How many hours did it take you man?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If you have all you need, it's probably a 14-16 hour job. If you've done one before probably a 6-10 hour job. We were very careful and second guessed everything, but I also had to order surprise parts
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My truck had nismo spacers which replace the stock strut cap, a spacer with the RC makes the preload insane and I just didn't want to go there.

I had to buy stock strut caps, 6" lift struts and I also upgraded the RC bolts to grade 8. The nuts and bolts they use are a little sketch.
 

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My truck had nismo spacers which replace the stock strut cap, a spacer with the RC makes the preload insane and I just didn't want to go there.

I had to buy stock strut caps, 6" lift struts and I also upgraded the RC bolts to grade 8. The nuts and bolts they use are a little sketch.
Oh man before I get started. Could you tell me the specs on the bolts and where you bought them in case I need them?!!? Thanks so much! Putting this on tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I can't remember specs but same just legit grade 8 from Tru value not Chinese grade 8. I stripped 3 of the RC nuts and bolts and said this is a hardware problem. You should not be able to strip grade 8 with a 1/2 drive.

I replaced and can't strip them with a 1/2 and 2.5 foot pipe
 

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I can't remember specs but same just legit grade 8 from Tru value not Chinese grade 8. I stripped 3 of the RC nuts and bolts and said this is a hardware problem. You should not be able to strip grade 8 with a 1/2 drive.

I replaced and can't strip them with a 1/2 and 2.5 foot pipe
So I’m in the middle of the install and Jesus! How did you manage to remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint? I’m beating on that thing so much right now and no luck?!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Sorry man just checked my email. You have to spread the joint. Hammer and pickel fork or some other prying object.

I changed my cam bolts. That was a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
You will need a spring compressor. Rent from AutoZone. You can get the pickel rental there also.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
This info is for those weighing options on other kits. I got my RC 6" with a discount for like $900 or something, spent $250 on 6" RC struts, $40 on bolts (could return some) $65 on cam bolts (moog), $60 strut caps (moog), $50 drive shaft spacer (eBay) $80 tie rod ends (moog).

Could spend another $120 on upper and lower ball joints but mine are still pretty good.

Most this stuff you would need to buy with any other kit as well.
 

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This info is for those weighing options on other kits. I got my RC 6" with a discount for like $900 or something, spent $250 on 6" RC struts, $40 on bolts (could return some) $65 on cam bolts (moog), $60 strut caps (moog), $50 drive shaft spacer (eBay) $80 tie rod ends (moog).

Could spend another $120 on upper and lower ball joints but mine are still pretty good.

Most this stuff you would need to buy with any other kit as well.
My back is killing me as well as my
hands. So this is a run down of what I did. Removed stock knuckles, removed upper control arms, as well as lower. Removed rear cross members. Installed RC front and rear cross members using the holes where the old lower control arms went. I also installed the skid plate while I was at it. The instructions suck, they really do. It took me an hour to just figure out what bolts and washers to use. Anyway she is lookin good. I will right up some more later!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yea instructions are not the best. Remember to switch and flip the tie rods. I couldn't find that in the manual. Also, any bushing joint that you can move with easy to medium effort by hand needs to be replaced.
 
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