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I just got off the phone with my local A.R.E. dealer trying to price a Z-series topper for the Titan. The dealer called A.R.E. and they told her that the mold for the Z-Series would be completed on April 13th and that they are taking orders NOW!!!

I placed my order on the spot for a Z-series with Keyless entry, cloth interior, 12v dome light, frameless glass, tilt-out front window, and clothing rack for $1450. WoooHooo!!! :cheers:
 

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kennyo said:
I just got off the phone with my local A.R.E. dealer trying to price a Z-series topper for the Titan. The dealer called A.R.E. and they told her that the mold for the Z-Series would be completed on April 13th and that they are taking orders NOW!!!

I placed my order on the spot for a Z-series with Keyless entry, cloth interior, 12v dome light, frameless glass, tilt-out front window, and clothing rack for $1450. WoooHooo!!! :cheers:
O.K., cool, I will get right on this! I want the roof rack too.

Is the boot at the front a good thing or no?
 

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bestatchess said:
O.K., cool, I will get right on this! I want the roof rack too.

Is the boot at the front a good thing or no?
I've had caps with boots before and they usually scratch the paint on the back of the cab after a while. They are good at keeping snow and rain from obscuring your view through the topper though. I opted for the fold down front window which allows you to easily clean the front window of the topper.

Jack,
Check out www.4are.com and look at the Z-series caps.
 

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The paint scratching depends on the truck and the cap. My 88 Nissan didn't have a problem because the boot sat against the window frame but my Dad's 84 Toyota the boot sat on the paint and pretty much went through to the metal.
 

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mtbendo said:
The paint scratching depends on the truck and the cap. My 88 Nissan didn't have a problem because the boot sat against the window frame but my Dad's 84 Toyota the boot sat on the paint and pretty much went through to the metal.
Ouch! The boot gets the boot!
 

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I'd take a look at how the boot fits first. The Titan has a huge back window so if the boot only rubbed the window, no big deal. Personally I liked having a boot (my shell didn't have a front window). That way I could grab things through the window instead of having to go through the back.
 

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kennyo said:
I just got off the phone with my local A.R.E. dealer trying to price a Z-series topper for the Titan. The dealer called A.R.E. and they told her that the mold for the Z-Series would be completed on April 13th and that they are taking orders NOW!!!

I placed my order on the spot for a Z-series with Keyless entry, cloth interior, 12v dome light, frameless glass, tilt-out front window, and clothing rack for $1450. WoooHooo!!! :cheers:
I am trying to determine if this is compatible with the utility track which runs along the inner side walls of the bed (utility bed package), as I fear it may block the conventional securing clamps. Did you get any info on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bestatchess said:
I am trying to determine if this is compatible with the utility track which runs along the inner side walls of the bed (utility bed package), as I fear it may block the conventional securing clamps. Did you get any info on this?
I've got an XE without the utili-bed package, so this is not an issue for me. However if the clamp installation is going to interfere with the tracks, you can have the dealer install the cap with bolts through the top of the bedrail.
 

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kennyo said:
I've got an XE without the utili-bed package, so this is not an issue for me. However if the clamp installation is going to interfere with the tracks, you can have the dealer install the cap with bolts through the top of the bedrail.
Yes, I'm looking into this now. The cap dealer is going to go over to a dealer and look at the utility bed and I have emailed ARE. Hopefully ARE has this all figured out.

The track is right below the bedrail, but there are plastic knock-outs in the bedrail covers in each of the corner regions in double-wall portions of the bed where it looks like something could get bolted down, although it looks like you might have to take the utility track off to get access, and then put it back on later. Hopefully a bolt in each corner would suffice.
 

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bestatchess said:
I am trying to determine if this is compatible with the utility track which runs along the inner side walls of the bed (utility bed package), as I fear it may block the conventional securing clamps. Did you get any info on this?
My truck hasn't been delivered yet so I can't check but I did notice before that the utilitrack didn't extend all the way to the back corners. If the front is the same they may be able to squeeze hooks in there. Either that or fab some brackets that mount to the track itself. I've only seen 4 points mounting most shells.
 

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mtbendo said:
My truck hasn't been delivered yet so I can't check but I did notice before that the utilitrack didn't extend all the way to the back corners. If the front is the same they may be able to squeeze hooks in there. Either that or fab some brackets that mount to the track itself. I've only seen 4 points mounting most shells.
O.K., I have received assurances from A.R.E. that the Z series won't interfere unduly with the utility track. It mounts with 4 clamps, one at each corner, so you are losing maybe 1 or 2 inches of travel at each end of the tracks. Also, you may need to take off the rear clamps (easy to do) to remove the sliding bed extender or bed divider. The dealer said that he could eliminate the clamps by drilling and bolting, but he didn't recommend that.

I placed the order for the Z-series with liner, remote lock, tilt out front window, clothes hanger, 12V light, & roof rack, installed for $1745, ETA mid to late May. The mold is supposed to be finished mid-April, and they are already taking orders, so the waiting list is growing. I went with a dealer-installed Yakima rack rather than the factory A.R.E. rack as it had more flexibility on the various attachments. You can take the rack off when not in use, and leave only the rails, which don't stick up vertically very far, maybe 1/4 inch. The Z-series is cab high, the rack sticks up 5 inches, and the attachments project further above the rack, depending on what attachment(s) you select. So if you have a standard 7 foot garage door, you can probably get in the garage with the rack on, but perhaps not the attachments.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
bestatchess said:
O.K., I have received assurances from A.R.E. that the Z series won't interfere unduly with the utility track. It mounts with 4 clamps, one at each corner, so you are losing maybe 1 or 2 inches of travel at each end of the tracks. Also, you may need to take off the rear clamps (easy to do) to remove the sliding bed extender or bed divider. The dealer said that he could eliminate the clamps by drilling and bolting, but he didn't recommend that.

I placed the order for the Z-series with liner, remote lock, tilt out front window, clothes hanger, 12V light, & roof rack, installed for $1745, ETA mid to late May. The mold is supposed to be finished mid-April, and they are already taking orders, so the waiting list is growing. I went with a dealer-installed Yakima rack rather than the factory A.R.E. rack as it had more flexibility on the various attachments. You can take the rack off when not in use, and leave only the rails, which don't stick up vertically very far, maybe 1/4 inch. The Z-series is cab high, the rack sticks up 5 inches, and the attachments project further above the rack, depending on what attachment(s) you select. So if you have a standard 7 foot garage door, you can probably get in the garage with the rack on, but perhaps not the attachments.
BestatChess,

My last three caps have all been drilled and bolted through the bedrail and this doesn't cause any problems. In fact, you may want to check with your insurance company because some of them wont insure your cap if it flies off using a clamped on installation (not that I think this is common). When I had my last cap installed the dealer specifically warned me of this.
 

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kennyo said:
BestatChess,

My last three caps have all been drilled and bolted through the bedrail and this doesn't cause any problems. In fact, you may want to check with your insurance company because some of them wont insure your cap if it flies off using a clamped on installation (not that I think this is common). When I had my last cap installed the dealer specifically warned me of this.
O.K., thanks. I will check with my insurance guy. I got rear ended several years ago while driving a 96 Toyota with a cap and going about 5 MPH in heavy traffic on the hgwy. A guy in a full size van doing 50 MPH was turned around trying to control his kids in the back seat and didn't notice that traffic had slowed. I woke up in the hospital and when I went to get my truck out of the impound lot a few days later, the bed was crushed forward about 4 feet and there was no cap. But I can't remember whether it was clamped or bolted. Fortunately, the guy with the van had insurance.
 
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