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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 Titan SE 2X4 that just clocked 90,000 miles. In those 90K miles I have had to do zero work to the truck, it just flat rocks! With the price of new trucks being what they are today and seeing how this one is almost paid off here is my question:

When pulling my bass boat (4000lb dual axle) up a wet boat ramp the traction gets sketchy at times. One time in paticular the back left tire was over some lake moss that had washed up and the truck wouldn't go anywhere. Not even with the trailer unloaded. Another time was when I was in a gravel parking lot trying to climb a small hill. Stuck.

I know I could go TrueTrac but is that the magic bullet? What about a locking rear end? What about something that I haven't thought of, like say a 4X4 conversion.

I am willing to spend some coin. The way I look at it if I can go another 100K miles then it paid for itself by not having to buy a new truck.

What is the answer? THANKS!
 

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What kind of tires are you running? I ran my older wide Terra Grapplers up some pretty slippery ramps with my boat which is heaver than yours and they gripped great...maybe something as simple as better tires?
 

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I agree, try tires first before getting into an expensive and major project.
 

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I have an 06 2X4 and pull a 20 bowrider. I take it easy and it comes out of the hole like a champ. What tires do you have?
 

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I too have the same year truck and 2x4 as well. I also have a tandem axle boat trailer when loaded is 5500 plus depending on amnt of gas. I have never had an issue since I switched to BFG A/T in 305/65/18. They absolutely rock in those type of conditions. Not to mention I have 50,000 and counting miles on them. Would be worth a shot before you go a more expensive route.
 

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Truetrac is a locker.

I suppose a 4wd conversion can be done mechanically but I an not sure if the electronics are there in a 2wd. Might have to have the ECU reflashed or just by a ECU for a 4wd. All you need a front diff with axles, t-case, 4wd front coil springs, 4wd hubs, front drive shaft and electrical parts. I would look at the cost of a conversion vs upgrading to a 4wd truck.

Maybe use better ramps?? Upgrade to some grippier tires maybe? Stay off the moss :)

Been in a 4wd truck since 1991 and never used 4wd to pull my boats out of the water except for the dirt shallow ramps where I have had to back the truck 10-15ft into the water to get the boat to float and even then I probably didn't need 4wd. Just lucky I guess :) My Dad turned 73 today, been towing boats since he was old enough to drive illegally and to this day has never owned a 4wd vehicle. He now sports a 2007 Titan 2wd and bust my balls for always having a 4wd.
 

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I know I could go TrueTrac but is that the magic bullet?
Yes, for a truck that is driven mainly on the street, that can be done at a reasonable price.


What about a locking rear end?
You could go with ARB or a replacement Dana 60 rear axle w/locker, but that is kind of spendy. I think somebody was making one with a Dana 60 center section and welding on the Titan tube ends to retain the tone rings & ABS brake functionality. Currie was also making one. Another possibility would be a newer model OEM e-locker rear axle with the bigger axle shafts, if you could find one used at a decent price. Just wire the solenoid to a switch and it should work. The older e-lockers seemed to fail due to powdered metal spider gears, whereas the newer ones reportedly went to a stronger design.


What about something that I haven't thought of, like say a 4X4 conversion.
Lots of money. Probably better to trade in on a 4x4. For OEM, you would need transfer case, front and rear driveshafts, different coil springs, different front hubs, front differential, CV shafts, harnesses, 4x4 switch, transmission tailshaft housing, different ABS actuator, maybe a different ECU, maybe other stuff I can't think of.

You could go aftermarket and do an SAS with an Atlas transfer case, but still spendy, and way more than you need for pulling a boat up a ramp. Plus there seem to be some complications getting ABS and cruise control to work.
 

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TruTrac with good tires should be enough for most ramps I would think... Terra Grapplers are quite impressive on those slippery ramps, maybe not a magic bullet but they do better than alot of other tires.
 

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Get your tires siped. My Terra Grappler A/T's had poor wet traction, but after getting them sipped before this rainy season they spin a whole lot less often.

Tire shops charge around $15 per tire for used tires you bought somewhere else, but you need to have some tread left.
Tire Siping - Discount Tire
My Toyo M/T's were siped from day one, and they still did great in the rain even when they were down to the wear bars.

.
 

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Truetrac is a locker.
...Uh no it's not....It's a LSD.....

The TT would be the best bang for your buck, a true locker being a bit agressive...The selectable ARB unit is great, but all that for getting up a boat ramp....
 

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Well Grnhead my dad has a 24 foot deckboat similar to a chaparral and he lives next to the colorado river and we always go the river. I bought a 07 crew cab 2wd non big tow brand new and the first time I towed my dads boat the truck pulled and launched the boat like a dream. However when I pulled the boat out my truck was spinning like crazy and I finally got it out after a little fish tailing. I then added a lift kit with 35" hankook dynapro MT's and the next time I went out I had aboslutely no problem getting the boat out with those new tires. Soon here I am getting 3.73 gears and a truetrac and I know it will be even better, however those stock tires + wet ramp + no LSD = embarrassing day on the launch ramp lol. :bangit:

Bottom line just get the truetrac installed because it will definately help and will probably save your differential from blowing up later anyways and get some good tires and go out and have some fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Probably should have given the tire info, sorry. I had the original good years and they were bad so I put a set of Michelin LT SUV tires on them and didn't have this problem until just recently. Granted the tires have 50K miles on them but they are not down to the wear bars yet, but probably don't have near the traction they did when new.

95% of the time I have no issues. It's just those couple times in the year when it pops up and irriates me to no end. The truck is perfect except for that.

I know I will need tires soon, and I will probably go the TT route. However if I get in the same situation I might set the thing on fire!
 

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Trutrac is NOT a locker rear diff...They are a positive traction unit that applies even power to both tires when driving in perfect situations. When traction gets limited the unit adjusts itself automatically to apply power to which ever tires is getting the most traction while still appling limited power to the one loosing traction.

A locker completely locks both tires and drive forward at the same speed at all times...A locker rear is not a street friendly unit, they will wear your tires out QUICKLY! this is why air lockers are the preferred method in off road use. THey are a posi unti till you get stuck, then you can lock int he diffs and really put down the pulling power. THen once your free you can unlock them back into a psitive traction style to save tire life.
 

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Not sure if this helps...but back when I lived in Port Lavaca a lot of folks had to use the propulsion from their boat motors to get their 2wd trucks up a local boat ramp.
 

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Not sure if this helps...but back when I lived in Port Lavaca a lot of folks had to use the propulsion from their boat motors to get their 2wd trucks up a local boat ramp.
I was told that's a good way to break the Impellar on I/O motors because they're not supposed to be driven with the transom lifted up in Trailer mode.
 

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I was going to say that sounded a little sketchy to me lol. I know alot of impellars will burn up quickly out of water. And just think if you were lucky enough to find a rock with your prop! I'd rather spend $500 on titan mods than a new prop lol.
 

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I was told that's a good way to break the Impellar on I/O motors because they're not supposed to be driven with the transom lifted up in Trailer mode.
I meant when the boat is still in the water...sometimes the trucks needed just a little push to get past that slick spot...not full throttle or anything wild like that. But yeah I understand its kinda risky anyways.
 

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I meant when the boat is still in the water...sometimes the trucks needed just a little push to get past that slick spot...not full throttle or anything wild like that. But yeah I understand its kinda risky anyways.
Doesn't matter if it's in the water or not... When you use the trim tab, its height is limited and isn't always high enough for trailering... When you use the Trailer tab, the I/O raises up further than the Trim Tab lifts it and you're not supposed to run the drive when it's raised that high because of the bind on the shaft knuckles and the backforce or pull force or whatever can somehow break the impellar, from what I was told.. The guy who told me said it doesn't make sense to him either why (of all things) it's the impellar that breaks, but he said it does and that the transoms are not designed to run in gear when in Trailer mode.
 
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