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Discussion Starter #1
Researched the forum and found similar threads, but thought I would check to see if anyone has had this issue recently.
When I start the truck, I just get the slip and diff lock lights.

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Then after driving for a few seconds at low speeds, the lights switch to ABS, slip and VDC. (Diff lock light comes off)
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I have scanned for codes with an OBDII code reader and no codes were found.
After the truck cools over night, the lights are gone. The next day, the same problem comes back. (start the truck, get the VDC and diff light..... drive and get the ABS, slip and VDC)
I'm hoping this is just a loose/dirty ABS sensor which I will try to check on all 4 wheels. Anything else to check for intermittent issues?
Thx.
 

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Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Don't check it, fill it.
 

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Make sure that's the right kind.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It has Nissan on the bottle.
I think it's half a bottle left over from the fluid flush I did 2 years ago.
 

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While chasing spring turkeys, I had a decent sized rock kick up and cut clean through the cable to the ABS on the rear driver side. Knocked ABS and 4WD out. Stripped the cable, slid a shrink tube on, patched it together, wrapped tight in electrical tape and shrunk the tubing over the splice. That was three years ago, no issues since.

Just another possible cause to search.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
While chasing spring turkeys, I had a decent sized rock kick up and cut clean through the cable to the ABS on the rear driver side. Knocked ABS and 4WD out. Stripped the cable, slid a shrink tube on, patched it together, wrapped tight in electrical tape and shrunk the tubing over the splice. That was three years ago, no issues since.

Just another possible cause to search.
Hmmm, we've had some recent seal coating completed on a road I frequently travel. Gravel and rocks/pebbles everywhere.
Did you have the exact same dash error lights?
 

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That was my recollection, same error lights. Could be bad ABS sensor, they're like $300 if I recall correctly. The shrink tube and electrical tape was much cheaper fix lol.
 

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same issue: abs sensor was the problem. "paboxcall" is correct to the 4wd will stop working as a result of one of the abs sensors being bad to.
 

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Did you top off the brake fluid, OP?
 

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4mula is right - start with the cheap/easy, and then move to the other issues. Top off the brake fluid, then start looking for broken cables on ABS sensors. Oh, and those are dirt cheap - like $20-25 apiece, on the high end, and from some vendors half that cost - so just get new sensors rather than trying to solder/shrink it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Did you top off the brake fluid, OP?
You bet, topped off the brake fluid. No change.
I rotated all tires, (it was due) so gave me a good chance to look at all the ABS sensors.
No damage by wires or connections that I could see, and I used a multi-meter to test all of them. They all read about the same OHM measurement of around .450 MOhms
I tried the AC voltage measurement too by spinning the wheel, but on all 4 wheels I pretty much saw 0 volts. So either I wasn't spinning fast enough, or I just couldn't get my meter to connect correctly.
I've also tried the "read codes" method by pushing the gas pedal 5 times, waiting and holding it down for 10 and so on.
I believe it's still not throwing codes. (according to this site)

Now, my battery is suspect.
It's the original battery, so probably close to 8 years old and there is some heavy blue powder on the positive terminal.
I'm going to give it a full cleaning and tender the battery back up to charge.
I will do some more tests and report back.

I might try to visually inspect the diff electronic connections (again) to see if there is any damage or dirtyness, but I highly doubt it.

I've also thought about buying the datascanII software. Perhaps it will read ABS codes?
I might just give up and take it to my Indy shop. :cry:
 

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If your battery is going, the appearance of strange lights is a near universal sign. These trucks are very sensitive to battery voltage. Bet a fresh battery resolves this.
 

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^^^^agree. Had my truck only a few days and I stopped hard enough for the ABS to pulse once and the dash lit up. The lights were off the next time I started it, after checking everything over my battery cables were soooo loose and that was the problem.
 

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I had the same thing happen when I changed rotors and pads,but the next day the slip light went off,never did figure out why
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update:

Checked the battery and oh man, there was a ton of corrosion on the postive side post. There is a fuse block attached to the main connector that has two wires clipped in. Even the clip leads were heavily covered in the blue powder crap. Cleaned it all up and the issue is immediately gone. I will run it for a few more days and see how it goes. I will likely replace the battery before Winter.
Thanks for all the help on this thread!
 

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Researched the forum and found similar threads, but thought I would check to see if anyone has had this issue recently.
When I start the truck, I just get the slip and diff lock lights.

View attachment 545680


Then after driving for a few seconds at low speeds, the lights switch to ABS, slip and VDC. (Diff lock light comes off)
View attachment 545681

I have scanned for codes with an OBDII code reader and no codes were found.
After the truck cools over night, the lights are gone. The next day, the same problem comes back. (start the truck, get the VDC and diff light..... drive and get the ABS, slip and VDC)
I'm hoping this is just a loose/dirty ABS sensor which I will try to check on all 4 wheels. Anything else to check for intermittent issues?
Thx.
I wonder if it one of those better ideas that Nissan always thinks is great. Before my 2017 Titan, I had a 2003 Frontier, that would turn on the brake light and the battery light when the alternator went bad. I could understand the battery light, but, not the brake light. Mechanic at Nissan told me that they did this to make sure that the driver knew there was a problem. Have not had any issues yet with the Titan, but, I am always learning something new about it. Such as the 10 amp fuses under the hood for the trailer lights at the 7 pin connector. That one took awhile to find, and fix. That was not documented anywhere in the service manual.
 

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That's so they can charge you $150 or so to replace a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update 2.0:

Truck still throws the same light errors. Damn! I honestly thought I had it.
I cleaned up the massive heavily corroded postive terminal, and decided to put in a new battery this morning. (I was due for one anyway)
Thought I was golden.

Took a 30 minute drive out to the lake, and bam, the diff lock and slip lights are back.
Eventually, the ABS, slip and VDC lights came on and the diff lock light off. Same as usual.

What's interesting, is that I started to think this might be heat related. The lights seem to be off more if the truck sits for a bit. Especially overnight.
I was at the lake, trying to check the positive side of the battery connections again and sat in the truck for about 2 minutes with the engine running. The diff light and slip were randomly shutting off and on with no pattern. I eventually came home and the lights were on full of course.
It makes me wonder that temperature somewhere might be contributing to my problem.

Once I got home, I decided to try something different. I went under to the rear diff and unplugged the two connectors. I'm not sure what they are for.
I assume one is to activate the diff lock, and the other may be a sensor, but I really have no clue.
I left both plugs unplugged and took the truck out for a drive.
No lights what so ever.
I even went to an open parking lot and did some speed tests. It was lightly raining out, so I could hammer the gas from a stopped position and spin the rear tires on the wet pavement.
The VDC kicked in as normal.
Tried again with VDC off, and the tires spun even more as it normally should. (the "cutting" of engine throttle was dis-engaged and thus working normally)
I was thinking in my mind, "I need to heat up the rear diff", but after about 20 minutes of driving around in the parking lot and through the streets on the way home, the dash lights never came on.

I will maybe pull the plug on the rear diff to see what the oil is like, but I just changed it 2 years ago.
Could there be a bad sensor in the rear diff?
FWIW, my axle seals are clean, and my diff breather should be working normally. I clean it a lot and make sure I can swivel it and move it slightly up and down.

Below is a picture of the two connectors I unplugged. You can easily tell which wire plugs into the correct connector.
It was also interesting to note that with both these connectors unplugged, there were no dash errors at all.
I did not try to put the truck in the 4Lo and activate the diff lock, but I assume it would have not worked. :)
For fun, I may try that tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks for any other feed back you guys can provide. Most appreciated.

Oh, and the Frontier is one my favorite trucks of all time!

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I noticed the slip light flickering on and off while driving on the Michigan autobahn
Not sure what causes it
 
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