I would make sure the parking brakes are ok first. Then start looking at wiring for an obvious signs of damage.

 

Parking brakes look good and the brake fluid is good. Guess it's time to start chasing wires. This should be a blast.

 

I would start by taking a close look at the connectors. Take them apart, inspect them, and use di-electric grease on them before you put them back together.
Also wouldn't hurt to unhook the battery overnight and check all the fuses.

 

Bam!

 

Some guys have had the exhaust pipe rust just behind the muffler and that compromised the wiring harness that is nearby. Is your exhaust OK?

 

My exhaust was replaced last August so unless it compromised the wiring then and it just took this long to register I dont think thats it (won't completly disregard it I've seen stranger things). So I'll start with the diaelectric grease and move on from there. Thanks

 

It's possible that it could be either a bad wheel sensor or one of those pressure sensors that are located below the brake cylinder reservoir. Disconnect each wheel speed sensor and ohm it out with a meter. A working sensor should read a steady 2.2M ohms (or very close to it), whereas a bad one will register around 2M ohms (or less).

 

I did have a bad sensor replaced it had the codes cleared and the light came back instantly. The garage put the scanner back on and it said open circuit to the RR sensor so i replaced it again had the codes cleared with the same result. I know its possible to get 2 bad sensors but unlikely.It goes in the garage monday for them to try and figure out whats wrong.
:stab:

 

do you know what they used to clear the codes? a normal handheld scanner wont clear abs/slip codes unless its a fancy dancy one. consult and uprev can/will def clear the codes. so you might actually be fine just need the proper method of clearing the codes.

 

The garage I took it has one of the fancy scanners from snap on. It read every wheel for the fault and came back as an open circuit. He reset it and as soon as it ran its test at start up it came back on

 

What codes are u getting? I found out that uprev or a snap on won't pick up all codes thrown, the computer that nissan uses picked up 10 other codes stored in my ecm and abs, I didn't believe in it till I didn't have a choice to take it in for proof to the shop that welded on my truck, it was worth it and something u shoukd do at this point. Check all ur wiring and there is a wiring harness running up the pass side frame of truck.

 

Did you check the abs ring? If they are missing teeth it can throw the code. When my parking break shoe came apart it damaged the tone ring and threw the code. My dealer did the consult hook up for free. Good luck.

 

The garage just called me and said they cleared the code and it came right back on. The scanner they use runs tests at every wheel sensor and it came back as an open circuit at the right wheel sensor. It also gives them various items to check. so after doing every check that came up on the machine nothing fixed it. It kept coming back as a bad sensor. So now I will get a 3rd sensor and see if this fixes the problem.

 

Update. Took the titan to the stealership yesterday for this issue. The same tech that originally told me it was a bad sensor was the one working on it. They asked about exhaust because the could see where the wire loom was brittle on the one end. They tried to sell me the whole harness for $180 along with 3 hours labor. I told them I just wanted them to find the broken wire and replace it. Since he originally told me it was the sensor and 3 later it still didn't work I was paying for a harness that I didn't think I needed. Turns out I was right they found a broken pin in the plug end fixed it and a $123 later my lights are off and I finally have 4 wheel drive again.

 

Good deal. Yeah, sometimes you have to watch these techs. However, a majority of these guys are pretty decent.

 

There is only 1 tech at the dealership I trust and mine has only been there for diagnostics when the electrical system was toasted.

 

I did check the connectors and used di-electric grease but I apparently overlooked the pin. The problem I see with most techs anymore is with all the computer crap they hook up the scanner and just throw parts at it with out really doing much diagnostic work.