I don't understand how you can still be getting axle wrap. The traction bars make the axle directly connected to the frame, so the axle should not be moving at all with the traction bars installed.
Added Traction Bar - Still Getting Axle Wrap
Wondering if anyone has any suggestions...you can see my setup in my signature...I've been really happy with the lift and coilovers as far as handling is concerned, however, I started getting a lot of axle wrap.
From the line, I couldn't push the pedal down more than halfway and if I punched it below 40mph, I'd get the shudder. So I added the Fabtech traction bars and I can't believe the difference they make. Overall handling is much better and I don't know if it's possible, but even the braking feels better.
Anyway the point of this post is even with the traction bars I'm still getting axle wrap if I hit it hard off the line and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions...
Sorry for the long post and thanks...
From the line, I couldn't push the pedal down more than halfway and if I punched it below 40mph, I'd get the shudder. So I added the Fabtech traction bars and I can't believe the difference they make. Overall handling is much better and I don't know if it's possible, but even the braking feels better.
Anyway the point of this post is even with the traction bars I'm still getting axle wrap if I hit it hard off the line and was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions...
Sorry for the long post and thanks...
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That's why I can't figure it out...They seem to be installed rock solid.AgTitan06 said:I don't understand how you can still be getting axle wrap. The traction bars make the axle directly connected to the frame, so the axle should not be moving at all with the traction bars installed.
They're welded to the frame on one end and attached to the bottom of the U Bolts on the other...
Maybe you are sensing slack in the drive shaft U Joints, not the axle. How is your Carrier drop setup?
TitanBlue said:Maybe you are sensing slack in the drive shaft U Joints, not the axle. How is your Carrier drop setup?
The kit dropped it 2 inches...maybe it has to be dropped another inch or two?
The Fabtech is definately higher than being called a 6" lift. It came with a 2 inch spacer for the front and a 3 inch for the rear. The truck didn't sit level so the shop replaced the 3 with a 5 inch in the rear, so it's pretty obvious why I was getting the axle wrap initially...
I don't think the carrier bearing bracket is the problem. Other people have run much larger lifts with just the standard cst carrier bearing drop with no prob.bills1974 said:The kit dropped it 2 inches...maybe it has to be dropped another inch or two?
The Fabtech is definately higher than being called a 6" lift. It came with a 2 inch spacer for the front and a 3 inch for the rear. The truck didn't sit level so the shop replaced the 3 with a 5 inch in the rear, so it's pretty obvious why I was getting the axle wrap initially...
Have they been running really wide tires and 2WD or 4WD...from what I understand the driveshaft is different... I think the 4WD is a single piece and the 2WD is two...AgTitan06 said:I don't think the carrier bearing bracket is the problem. Other people have run much larger lifts with just the standard cst carrier bearing drop with no prob.
I don't believe the 4WD kit drops the carrier bearing at all. I may be wrong though...
Well there is no carrier bearing to drop, so you'd be right. I'd say a lot of you problem stems from those 5" blocks. I would think some Deavers and a milder block would help improve things.bills1974 said:I don't believe the 4WD kit drops the carrier bearing at all. I may be wrong though...
I remember seeing a mod from JetTech (i think) with the springs to eliminate axle wrap, do you think that would help (I remember it being pretty cheap), or you think I should go straight to the deavers or dropping the block an inch or two?Sammy Sandbag said:Well there is no carrier bearing to drop, so you'd be right. I'd say a lot of you problem stems from those 5" blocks. I would think some Deavers and a milder block would help improve things.
Thanks,
Bill
It would kind of be redundant to have helper springs and traction bars, limiting articulation as well (not to mention traction bars should work much better than helper springs to begin with.) Personally I'd ditch those tall blocks. 4" seems to be the max anyone is recommending to run these days. Someone with a little more experience might chime in. I have PRG's traction bars with 1" blocks with absolutely no noticeable axle wrap, wheel hop, or other strange rear axle anomalies (obviously you need to go much higher though.)
Sammy Sandbag said:It would kind of be redundant to have helper springs and traction bars, limiting articulation as well (not to mention traction bars should work much better than helper springs to begin with.) Personally I'd ditch those tall blocks. 4" seems to be the max anyone is recommending to run these days. Someone with a little more experience might chime in. I have PRG's traction bars with 1" blocks with absolutely no noticeable axle wrap, wheel hop, or other strange rear axle anomalies (obviously you need to go much higher though.)
Thanks man, maybe I'll have them put on the 3" that came with the kit...I don't actually need the 5", I think there is plenty of clearance...they did it on their own because they thought it leveled much better...
Thanks again...
The FT traction bars use a floating forward mount that makes them more of a cosmetic upgrade than a traction bar. Basically, after a bunch of a ale wrap, the bars finally start to kick in.
PrerunnerGreg said:The FT traction bars use a floating forward mount that makes them more of a cosmetic upgrade than a traction bar. Basically, after a bunch of a ale wrap, the bars finally start to kick in.
Do you think yours would eliminate it? Because, if you do, I'll see if I can have the shop take back the Fabtech ones...I'll also be pretty upset due to the fact that they highly recommended them and they weren't cheap (even at their cost)...
I'm editing this because I'm actually now wondering why Fabtech would create a lift (that pretty much creates axle wrap) then sell a traction bar, that doesn't fully eliminate it?
Two things you need to do. Swap out your 5" block for a 2.5" Deaver pack and 2" block, and get the PRG traction bars. Problem solved.bills1974 said:Do you think yours would eliminate it? Because, if you do, I'll see if I can have the shop take back the Fabtech ones...I'll also be pretty upset due to the fact that they highly recommended them and they weren't cheap (even at their cost)...
I'm editing this because I'm actually now wondering why Fabtech would create a lift (that pretty much creates axle wrap) then sell a traction bar, that doesn't fully eliminate it?
You went with Fabtech
Problem created.
Problem created.
loufish said:You went with Fabtech
Problem created.
Wow, thanks for the helpful response. Outside of the axle wrap, I've been very happy with the lift and the DirtLogic coilovers, the ride is far better than I expected on road.
Sorry, I couldn't resist...:crying:Wow, thanks for the helpful response. Outside of the axle wrap, I've been very happy with the lift and the DirtLogic coilovers, the ride is far better than I expected on road.
You don't have a 4 link, so as you've already been told a set of 5" blocks is asking for axle wrap...You said it yourself, why would they(Fabtech) sell the blocks knowing axle wrap would be an issue...
Someone suggested the 2.5" Deaver Mini-Pak and just a 2" block, I agree that would be away to go...Unless you want to call Deaver and have them whip you up a set of custom 4" lift spring paks...
Couple things to ask, Im assuming you have a 2wd? Did the shop install a carrier baring drop bracket? If not you NEED one. If its a 4wd and your getting the bad tranny issue, the trans mount is probably broken and will need to be replaced. Did the shop install the dreaded FT add-a-leaf that comes with your kit, or did they just install a huge block? If they installed the spring AND the block, its just too tall and will need to come down. Also, if its 2wd, the FT coilovers use too stiff of spring...FT will tell you this too as the front will sit at full extension and there is no way to adjust the front down. Since you want the truck to look level, it just wont happen with out some major issues form the rear on a 2wd. Also, if its 2wd, did the fab shop cut off the lower fornt diff brackets on the subframe, they look horrible just hanging there if there is no diff, but very clean if they are removed. I have a very long list of upgrades to the FT kit to make it work as well as the other kits, it has a ton of potential and can be very tall though.
PrerunnerGreg said:Couple things to ask, Im assuming you have a 2wd? Did the shop install a carrier baring drop bracket? If not you NEED one. If its a 4wd and your getting the bad tranny issue, the trans mount is probably broken and will need to be replaced. Did the shop install the dreaded FT add-a-leaf that comes with your kit, or did they just install a huge block? If they installed the spring AND the block, its just too tall and will need to come down. Also, if its 2wd, the FT coilovers use too stiff of spring...FT will tell you this too as the front will sit at full extension and there is no way to adjust the front down. Since you want the truck to look level, it just wont happen with out some major issues form the rear on a 2wd. Also, if its 2wd, did the fab shop cut off the lower fornt diff brackets on the subframe, they look horrible just hanging there if there is no diff, but very clean if they are removed. I have a very long list of upgrades to the FT kit to make it work as well as the other kits, it has a ton of potential and can be very tall though.
No worries loufish...
Greg,
Yes I have a 2WD and they did install the carrier bearing drop bracket.
They didn't install the FT spring. Just the 5" block, instead of the 3" that came with the kit.
Overall, IMO, the shop did a very solid install and appeared to be pretty meticulous about every detail...They do a ton of Fabtech installs, granted, they are mostly on Fords...It appears after talking to you guys that the rear block really is what seems to be the source of the problem...I'm probably going to have them remove that...
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate it.
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