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Hey guys sorry for the long wait. I have been super busy with my family, kids, my newborn, new job, and house hunting!! So i have a 2015 CC 4X4 SV with the Rockford Fosgate system. Since I have Nav and backup camera etc, I opted to not install an aftermarket HU just to be able to add subs and wind up losing all functionality of the aforementioned items!!!! I spent a couple WEEKS on the phone with Crutchfield, Kicker, and Rockford. The Rockford rep was helpful but told me they have NOTHING to do with the system in our truck. He said that Nissan designed it and keeps them out of the loop, to the point where he said he cant even look up the schematics. On top of that he says Nissan withholds the schematics until the particular vehicle its in reaches 4 years old so people cant mess with it and add aftermarket stuff. Could he have been blowing smoke, sure, but as we all have seen its d*mn near impossible to find schematics anywhere. When I called Crutchfield the rep said the same thing, they said until they get a vehicle in the shop and tear it apart, they have no wiring diagrams and they make their own as they work on the truck. I did get a diagram from them for the 2015's. Ill attach it.
So first things first I had to add bass control knobs because wifey doesn't like too much base lol. So I custom installed them in two of the blank spots on the center console. Took a lot of time and fabrication. I had to cut the stock knockout apart and cut down the side of the dummy ports to get the circuit board to fit, the pictures will be easier to see what I did. The end result they look so clean and stock. I was surprised at how good they came out.
Ok so all three companies suggested to NOT add the RCA's BEHIND the HU because they weren't sure if the built in crossover would mess with the signal going to the woofer and didn't want to lose any part of the signal. They all said to use the 4 Stock Sub woofer Wires under the drivers seat. Bingo because there's plenty of room down there after you tear the sh*t stock sub out. Plenty of room to cool down and its out of the way and looks great. So I used the Kicker KISL's for my two amps (Kicker CX600.1). With this setup you DO NOT need to run a remote wire, I know that sounds crazy but for the first time ever I didn't need a remote wire!!!! The amps both turn on AND off with the truck! So for the KISL's the GRAY wire is (+)POS and the BLUE is (-)NEG. The subwoofer wires are as follows: WHITE (+)POS, BLACK (-)NEG, BROWN (-)NEG, BROWN W/WHITE STRIPE (+)POS. So I soldered all the wires and used heatshrink tubing, came out perfect.
I neatened up the wires after the picture and reinstalled the seat. I made a custom upfired subwoofer box for under the rear seats that came out great and doesn't stick out anywhere, so no leg room lost and the seat sits where it always has, it isn't raised up at all. I countersunk the subwoofers (Kicker CompR 10" 40CWR102) so that they wouldn't hit the bottom of the seat. They hit BEYOND hard, and are wired at 2 OHM's. I hope I'm not missing anything and I hope this clears up this situation of adding after market amps and subwoofers, also you could add another amp for the interior speakers and bypass the stock one. I included the wires colors for all the interior speakers as well!!
So first things first I had to add bass control knobs because wifey doesn't like too much base lol. So I custom installed them in two of the blank spots on the center console. Took a lot of time and fabrication. I had to cut the stock knockout apart and cut down the side of the dummy ports to get the circuit board to fit, the pictures will be easier to see what I did. The end result they look so clean and stock. I was surprised at how good they came out.
Ok so all three companies suggested to NOT add the RCA's BEHIND the HU because they weren't sure if the built in crossover would mess with the signal going to the woofer and didn't want to lose any part of the signal. They all said to use the 4 Stock Sub woofer Wires under the drivers seat. Bingo because there's plenty of room down there after you tear the sh*t stock sub out. Plenty of room to cool down and its out of the way and looks great. So I used the Kicker KISL's for my two amps (Kicker CX600.1). With this setup you DO NOT need to run a remote wire, I know that sounds crazy but for the first time ever I didn't need a remote wire!!!! The amps both turn on AND off with the truck! So for the KISL's the GRAY wire is (+)POS and the BLUE is (-)NEG. The subwoofer wires are as follows: WHITE (+)POS, BLACK (-)NEG, BROWN (-)NEG, BROWN W/WHITE STRIPE (+)POS. So I soldered all the wires and used heatshrink tubing, came out perfect.
I neatened up the wires after the picture and reinstalled the seat. I made a custom upfired subwoofer box for under the rear seats that came out great and doesn't stick out anywhere, so no leg room lost and the seat sits where it always has, it isn't raised up at all. I countersunk the subwoofers (Kicker CompR 10" 40CWR102) so that they wouldn't hit the bottom of the seat. They hit BEYOND hard, and are wired at 2 OHM's. I hope I'm not missing anything and I hope this clears up this situation of adding after market amps and subwoofers, also you could add another amp for the interior speakers and bypass the stock one. I included the wires colors for all the interior speakers as well!!
