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2008 kc se 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently added power folding mirrors to my 2008.5 Titan SE and I imagine someone else out there is thinking of doing the same thing. The info I include here will be 100% relevant for any Titan from 2004 - 2015 that has the square shaped mirror switch. If you have the knob style one, then connections to the mirror switch will use different pins, but everything else should be the same.

If you have the LE trim your install should be very simple, maybe even plug and play simple. If you have the XE or SE trim like me, you will have to do some custom wiring.

I've included 11 pictures with notes to detail the connections that are made.

A word of caution when looking for the mirrors to buy. The diagrams on the Nissan website do not differentiate between the different mirror options, it just shows a generic diagram. It also doesn't list the options each mirror supports. I originally bought two mirrors, one from Amazon and one from eBay. The Amazon one was a Doorman brand after market and the one from eBay was a OEM Nissan mirror. They both claimed having power fold in their descriptions, the eBay one listing it in multiple locations. Neither one actually had power fold and I had to return them both. You gotta have a solid part number to go by.

So after that fiasco, I did some more research. I came to the conclusion that all Titan and Armada mirrors before 2016 will bolt up and work. So I went on eBay and found a 2013 Armada Platinum which listed power fold mirrors. I took its VIN over to the Nissan website and got some part numbers.

96302-9FK0A (driver side mirror)
96301-9FK0A (passenger side mirror)

I wanted brand new OEM mirrors, and I found the best price at DealerDirectParts (I am not affiliated), they had them for $179. Not cheap, but I have to park in the garage every time I'm home. It requires me to fold in both mirrors when I go in and pull them back out when I back out. So it was still worth it to me.

The mirrors have every option available. Tilt position sensors, chrome cap, heated, puddle light, electric anti-dazzle (auto dim), turn signal and of course, power fold.

I also ordered a used mirror switch from a 2006 LE Armada that had the power fold switch and even included the plug that went into it, ready to be spliced into the truck (if needed be). Come to find out later I could've bought a brand new one for the same price 32$, but it wouldn't have came with the pig tail which I salvaged pins out of to add to the harness that was in my truck.

Here's the factory part #

25570-ZA320 (Door Mirror Remote Switch/with power fold)

So after getting everything, I tested the mirrors and they indeed had power fold and removed all doubt that I was right about the original two not having that option. The power fold ones are noticeably heavier and actually have the wires for the power fold. (Surprising!) (Note: You can still manually fold the power fold mirrors.)

The mirror switch I expected to be straight forward swap, minus having to add a couple extra wires to the vehicle harness, but boy was I wrong. After looking at wiring diagrams, I quickly realized that the LE mirror switch worked completely differently from the SE switch when it came to tilting the mirrors. The standard SE mirror switch tilt circuit works just like any other old school mirror switch, it's connected directly to the mirrors and sends power to the mirrors 2 motors and reverses the polarity to go in the opposite direction. In the case of the LE mirror switch, it sends a signal to the Automatic Drive Positioner (A.D.P.) and that in turn actually moves the mirrors. My Titan SE doesn't have the A.D.P., that is the option where you have 3 buttons on the door labeled "1", "2", and "set" which will automatically adjust the pedals, seat position and mirrors to what you have saved in the pre sets. No SE trimmed Titan/Armada will have the A.D.P.

I was fairly certain at this point that I would have to abandon my plans for a factory looking setup and would have to install a aftermarket switch in the dash instead. So holding the two mirror switches in my hands they appeared identical minus the fact the LE one has a mirror fold switch, and my original SE one has a blank in that spot, just showing a mirror symbol. I took them both apart and to my surprise the SE switch had the sliding contacts for the fold mirror switch inside of it.

This was huge, Nissan apparently had designed the switch so it could be used with out the ADP and still have the power fold option. What is surprising is that this was possible, but doesn't appear to have ever been a factory offered setup since none of the service manual's wiring diagrams show this configuration nor is there a mirror switch sold thats plug and play.

Looking at the circuit board it was obvious that the 2 switches differed electrically when it came to tilt. Which confirmed what I had gathered from the wiring diagrams. So I took the plastic top part off the LE switch with the buttons and switches, and combined it with the electrical guts and button membrane of the SE switch. I then added the very top plastic trim piece from the LE switch which had the hole for the fold switch.

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- *Note The button membrane is that soft rubber with electrical contacts on it to make connection when the tilt button is pressed. It's the same thing you find in keyboards and calculators underneath the actual plastic buttons. Unfortunately I didn't get it in my picture of the 2 switches apart side by side.

After that I added the 4 wires for the fold option to my truck's factory mirror switch harness. Two of those wires I ran to the passenger side mirror and the other 2 went to the driver side mirror. I tested it and It worked perfect, I had power fold. (See pictures for the wires and their pin locations that I added to the harness.)

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Here is a technical pin out of the connections.
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- Note 2: Both mirror switches look like they use the same plug, but the LE one I bought has a brown colored plug and is keyed with plastic strips on the side differently from the one that was in my truck (SE) which is a white plug with the key plastic strips positioned differently. In other words you can't plug the wrong switch into the wrong harness. Which is a good thing since even though the power fold output uses the same pins, the tilt output is a completely different setup.

- Note 3: There are no relays or any other devices connected between the mirror switch's power fold output and the mirrors. It is a simple direct wire setup.

- Note 4: Any double pole, double throw switch can be wired to control the power fold on the mirrors. Doesn't need to be momentary contact either. When testing the electric folding ability on my workbench, I hooked a amp meter up in line between the power supply and mirror, the mirror stops drawing power after it reaches its end of travel. When the voltage polarity is reversed the mirror will draw current and move in the opposite direction and stop drawing power when it reaches its other end of travel. Not sure exactly how this is accomplished inside the mirror, but that is how it works.

So even though my only real goal for this project was to have power folding mirrors, I wasn't going to leave the other abilities of the mirror unused. The heated mirror circuit was already present in my door's six pin connector for my original mirrors. I cut the 6 pin connector off my old mirror and spliced it to the appropriate wires on the new mirror. I did have to add two pins to the old mirrors 6 pin connector for the defrost, because my old mirror did not have that function, even though it was available in the doors wiring harness. Also the other 3 wires in the 6 pin connector controlled the mirror tilt function which obviously I needed.
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Doing it this way allowed me not to have to chop up the truck's factory door harness. If I could change one thing about this project it would've been to acquire a couple of the door side 16 pin mirror connectors and running all splices to that. This would've allowed me to swap mirrors quickly in the event one was destroyed. Plus I wouldn't have to void my brand new mirrors warranty immediately. I recommend if you do exactly as I did that you test all the mirror functions before splicing it. Yet what I really recommend is that you get yourself the door side mirror plugs, then you don't have to chop the mirrors up or chop up the wiring harness in the door. There are a lot of of Titans and Armada wrecks parted out on ebay every day. Also you may have a U pull it yard near you which would be the cheapest option if available. Any LE trimmed truck from 2004 onward will have the right connector, you may have to insert some pins in it if they are not all there, but that is very easy with the way the connectors are designed. You will have to have a sacrificial plug to harvest pins from though which can be harvested from pretty much any Nissan I imagine.

Hooking up the puddle lights was a little less straightforward than I initially expected. You would think I could just tap into the step light in the bottom of the door. Unfortunately that light is only on when the door is actually open. It is on the "step lamp circuit" which also runs the foot well lights (if so equipped).

In the logic diagram for the lighting circuits, it shows the puddle lamps run off the "interior light circuit", and should be on whenever the interior lights are activated, such as when you unlock the truck with the remote. Which makes sense since the puddle lamps would be fairly pointless if the door has to be open for them to work. The logic diagram also showed a Battery Saver line which all interior lights and the bed light are connected to. It is the positive side for all the lights. This circuit automatically shuts off after 30 minutes of the Body Control Module (B.C.M.) not detecting any change of state from the door open/close switches, lock buttons, ignition key insertion switch, or key fob use. So I tapped into the Battery Saver circuit via the red with green stripe wire that went to the step light in the door. I connected the other puddle light wire to the interior light circuit by running a wire into the cab and connecting it to the interior light output on the B.C.M. The B.C.M. is located behind the driver side kick panel which is below the steering wheel. Once the kick panel is removed you will find it mounted behind the OBDII port. The B.C.M. will have multiple connectors plugged into it, you are looking for the connector colored black. More info in the attached photos for wire colors, and the connector pin out.

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The mirror turn signals have a shared ground with the defroster circuit which I already wired into the old 6 pin mirror plug. There's only one wire connected to that pin, meaning the ground is shared internally in the mirror. So I only had to run one wire (per mirror) for the signals into the cab and that connected to one of the 2 mirror turn signal wires (left or right depending on which door) on the B.C.M. Those outputs on the B.C.M. are for the mirror turn signals only I believe, and I thought it was strange that the wires were already present on the B.C.M. I could not figure out where they went to and checked the extra connectors that are hidden behind the plastic kick panel located to the left of your feet will sitting in the driver seat. I figured for sure I would find the left turn signal output there, but did not. So I used a easy splice connector to hook into the wire coming out of the B.C.M. for each signal.

The anti-Dazzle (autodim) feature of the mirrors require that you have the inside auto dimming rear view mirror already in the truck. Which I do not. The wires would connect directly to the interior auto dim mirror and it would control the outside mirrors. After looking into the wiring diagrams for this, it looks like it would be very straight forward to add the autodim interior mirror to the truck. It works completely stand alone and does not need to be connected to anything but ignition power, always on power, ground, the reverse light circuit and direct to the side mirrors if you have the dim option in them.

WARNING do not apply 12 volts to the the auto dim wires you will fry that feature out of the mirror. Ask me how I know. I found out later they work on a max of 1.2 volts and I don't know but there might also be a current limit. My recommendation if you're dying to try it out or to verify your wiring is to use a half dead AAA battery.

I figured out ahead of time how many wires I would have to run into the cab from each door and ran them all at once. I used a bicycle brake cable sheath to snake my way through the rubber hose in the door jam and taped my wires to the other end of it and pulled it through. I did this in steps though, first from the cab to outside, then into and out of the rubber hose and finally into the door. It was a pain in the arse. So make sure you run enough wires the first time so you don't have to do it all over again.

The tilt position sensors account for the last 4 wires left coming from the mirror. These are only used by the Automatic Drive Positioner (A.D.P.) that my Titan SE doesn't have. I looked into what it would take to add that feature, and the amount of wiring and having to replace the front seats is way more effort and money than I care. So I just cut them off.

Indulgences and assumptions:

I noticed that the manual for my 2008 had two sets of wiring diagrams for the mirrors. Each set included a diagram "with power fold and A.D.P." and another diagram "without Power Fold or A.D.P." The 2 sets differed entirely on the pin outs for the mirror switch's fold and mirror tilt output pins and even power. After digging through Titan service manuals from 2004 - 2015 I realized these following things:

2008 was the only year with both sets of diagrams. where 2004-2007 only had the 1st set and 2009 - 2015 only had the second set.

I would think that means 2004 - 2007 have compatible Remote mirror control switches and 2009 - 2014 are compatible. 2008 will be compatible if it looks like your factory switch and not the new joystick looking mirror switch.

Also the power fold option first came available in 2006 but can be retrofitted to 2004 and 2005 without doing anything differently then if you were actually just adding it to a 2006, 2007 or 2008. This is also true if you have the A.D.P. (Auto Drive Positioner)

I also noticed that the wiring pin-out for the mirrors doesn't change at all 2004 - 2015 so all first generation TItan/Armadas have electrically and physically compatible mirrors. All that matters is, if you have the 6 pin harness or the 16 pin. Or in our case that doesn't even matter because you can't get power fold on the 6 pin connector so you're going to be doing some splicing.

Also, because of the fact their is no actual wiring diagram of the way I set mine up, that even though they produced the parts in a way it can be done they never actually used it in practice. In other words, If your truck had power fold then it also had the A.D.P. even though the A.D.P. has nothing to do with the power fold circuit. I imagine the power fold option only came default on the most accessorized models. Which if you had a fully accessorized Titan it would've had the Big Tow Mirrors anyway.

All you need to find, is a switch that looks like the one in your truck, but with the power fold switch on it. I know they used this square style switch on 06 thru 08 Armada, Titan and the Maxima. I also know that some titans continued to use this switch even after 08 and some used the new style. If your truck has the A.D.P., you just plug the new switch directly into your mirror switch's harness and maybe have to add the pins for the fold output. If you don't have the A.D.P. you do what I did and swap the guts around and you definitely have to add the 4 pins to the mirror switches harness.

Another thing I noticed when looking at interior photos on google is that some titans after 2008 have a new style mirror switch with a new style door panel, and some have the old style switch and door panel like mine. I would think the new mirror switch wiring diagrams would correspond with the new style switch and the older diagrams would correspond with the trucks that have the older style switch. I mean why re-invent the wheel for no apparent reason? Yet if that is the case why do they not include the older wiring diagrams in the service manuals after 2008? It's the Chewbacca defense, it does not make sense. If anyone has any info on this please post.

Everything in the Indulgences and assumptions area is only to the best of my knowledge.

I have included all the info for what connects to what in the attached photos, which I gathered from looking through a lot of wiring diagrams in different sections through out the service manual. If you would like to see the factory wiring diagrams they can be found in the service manual which is available here.

Nissan Titan Factory Service Manuals

The picture I included of the 6 pin and 16 pin mirror connectors photographed from the front with pin info came from 2 separate pictures I found somewhere on the forum. I do not know who originally created them, but if anyone does I would like to give the original contributor credit.

I can only upload 5 pics at a time that is why they are broken up into multiple post.

I hope you have found this guide helpful.

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This was probably the first thread I ran across when I wanted to swap out my big tow mirrors to power folding ones. It was helpful in confirming what part numbers I needed to order and that things would work. Mine's an '11 SL, and used the same part numbers for the mirrors but a different switch:


Don't know if they're identical or Nissan made minor changes. Either way, they both should work because if you search for one, the other will also show up as compatible and being replaced by.

For my truck it was plug and play and required no modifications to wiring with all the functions working as factory. I did need to make a trip to the hardware store to get 6 M6x1.0 flange nuts. The big tow mirrors use 3 long bolts and one short bolt that uses a flange nut to secure things.

The smaller mirrors use 4 short bolts that are secured by the flange nuts. The mounting points are still the same, just a different method of holding things together. I forgot to snap pictures, but once you get that cover plate open on the inside of the door it'll make sense. Long story short, you won't use the long bolts and you'll need to get 6 M6x1.0 flange nuts. I didn't bother getting a cover plate because I'm not going to see it when the doors are shut.

Also wanted to point out that the only reason you need to remove the door panel is to access the wiring harness for the mirror. One trick I read on another thread regarding mirrors was to tie a string to the harness so when you pull it out from the door, the string threads along. Now tie the string that is now outside to the new harness and pull it back in from the door panel. This ensures that the wiring follows the original path and won't get in the way of the window.
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