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Discussion Starter #1
I know there have been quite a few discussions on this topic, but I couldn't find anything that quite fit what I need. The alignment shop hasn't been able to get my alignment within spec for quite a while and I can't quite figure out what the issue is. I have had a popping or clunking sound coming from the right front side when I turn to the right for quite a while. I haven't been able to figure out what the issue is, but I think it's related to the alignment issue since they're having trouble aligning the right side - the left side is within spec.

First question - does anyone have the recommended alignment specs for a 4" CST spindle lift? I also have Bilstein 5100s but they are on the lowest setting. PRG cam bolts are installed.

Second question - Any thoughts on what the clunking could be when turning right? It only happens when turning sharp such as turning into a parking spot. I haven't been able to see any visible signs of metal-metal contact.

Third question - I'm considering doing a good amount of suspension work to reset everything and try to address some of the issues I've been having. My truck has 73K miles and everything is original except for the spindles, 5100s (installed at around 30k miles, so might just replace them too), cam bolts, and end links. What upper/lower control arms and tie rod ends would work best with the 4" CST spindles? Any suggestions on what else I should replace while I'm in there other than new 5100s?
 

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With a 4" lift, UCA's are the first thing you needed. You have serious coil bucket contact.
 

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Alignment specs shouldn't change much because of lift. You'll still need the same caster, camber, and toe.

With a spindle lift, I don't think the UCAs will contact the coil bucket, because the spindle length is where the lift is, so the UCA is (roughly) in the OEM position.

As for what will work best, my suspicion is your lower control arms are shot, and that's the popping you're hearing. It's also why you can't get her aligned. I'm betting your alignment issues are camber and toe? A good test is to have someone else sit in the driver's seat, and while holding the brakes, in park, turn the wheels from center to full right, and then to full left, and back to center. While they're doing that, lay down where you can watch the LCA bushings/mounts at the frame. My guess is, yours are moving a lot. Could be ball joints or tie rods, but my money is on LCAs. With your spindle lift, your LCAs are getting stressed more anyway (they're out of parallel with your UCAs so they're taking a beating).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
With a spindle lift, I don't think the UCAs will contact the coil bucket, because the spindle length is where the lift is, so the UCA is (roughly) in the OEM position.
Correct - I looked at both sides today and there isn't any sign of UCA / coil bucket contact

I'm betting your alignment issues are camber and toe?
Right now the right front camber and caster are out, but after the previous alignment it was the camber and toe.

I did notice that I have quite a bit of contact between the LCA and knuckle/spindle on both sides. Are there any LCAs that will prevent this contact, or will I just have to grind out this area on whatever I install? Also, any thoughts on the end links? I've always thought that they should be longer, but they are the correct length for this lift and it doesn't seem to change any of the noises I've been hearing when I have lengthened them in the past
545745
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Well, I think I see your alignment and noise issue. Your spindles are clanging on your LCA. I'm guessing there's a tie rod misadjusted or some such. This is why I don't care for spindle lifts. This particular design isn't "longer" than the OEM spindle, it just moves the wheel hub mount (the big part of the spindle) down 4", making the bottom of the spindle large enough to strike the LCA. Compare your spindle to a stock one, and you'll see the stock one is only as wide as the ball joint mount plus a little on each side, where your lift spindle is as wide as the hub mount plate (much wider). I'm thinking there should be some limit screws at the rear of your lift spindle which can be adjusted to prevent this, but doing so causes you to lose some turning radius, and these trucks have a fairly wide turn radius as it is.

My advice? Since you're 2wd, get some OEM spindles, new UCAs, and the correct spacer/shock combo to get you back to a reasonable lift, and I suspect all this will go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks dubyam - I'll definitely think about swapping out the lift since I likely need to replace a lot of these components anyway. The LCA / spindle contact is definitely what I've been hearing when the wheel is at full turn or when I'm turning and going over large rocks/bumps off road, but it's not what I'm hearing when turning at slow speeds. Any chance this could be related to a cam bolt? I only ask because I had one strip out a while back and that kept them from being able to align it. I don't know how it could happen, but the bolt eventually stripped out the flat portion of the washer and was able to spin within it. It makes me wonder if I could be hearing the bolt straining against the washer as it's trying to rotate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just wanted to post an update since it seems like the issue is now resolved. The popping sound when making a sharp turn at slower speeds was coming from the CAM bolts. The alignment shop installed them incorrectly, so I got them swapped around according to the install instructions that are now shown on the PRG website. Greg at PRG also said it sounded like they weren't torqued properly, so I got that taken care of. With the correct orientation and proper torque specs they were able to get it aligned, the popping sound is gone, and I no longer have any contact between the LCA and spindle since the new orientation on the CAM bolts moved the LCA.
 
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