So I have searched and found no straight answer to this ?......If I lift my truck with more than a leveling kit on a 2006 then I need the camber bolts?
Allignments, Camber Bolts, & Leveling Kits
Can someone make this a sticky perhaps. It seems to come up rather often!
Taken completely from PRG's post over on CT:
'Since this seems to be the latest concern amoungst Titan owners, I'll address it here. Shown are 3 pics of three different bolts. The bolt on the left is a Procomp replacement bolt (with more adjustment than stock), the middle is a stock alignment cam bolt, the last is an '06 bolt. The bolts sit in a slotted hole and can move inward and outward to push the lower a-arm. You can use regular 9/16 bolts and get the same result, but you cannot use the markers that are on the cams and holding the postition can be difficult while tightening. Nissan quite using the alignment bolts after '05 in all trucks (Frontier, Pathfinder, Xterra, Titan, Armada) as the factory alignment (caster and camber) will be within spec in stock form. You can still adjust the toe on any of these vehicles. We build our leveling kits to a modest height with which you should NOT need the alignment cams, but some trucks may (very rarely) need them. Most leveling kits out there just want max height without regard to any other variable. Your dealer will replace the bolts with the alignment cams on a a stock truck, but with a leveling kit (or any lift for that matter) they will charge you. Hope this clears things up just a bit. If you've bought one of our kits, you should not need the cams. If you have one of OUR kits and are having trouble aligning your vehicle, please call me. Also, be sure not to mistake a toe adjustment (which IS needed) for a camber/caster adjustment.'
Maybe I should explain what an alignment consists of. There are three adjustments to the front of your titan, caster, camber, and toe. The first two you adjust by rotating the lower a-arm bolts (alignment cams) the toe you adjust using by lengthening or shortening the tie rod. Caster is the amount of angle between the upper and lowerball joints, you will not be able to change this much and you cant see if its off, so we wont even worry about it here. Camber is the difference that the top of the tire sticks-out or in, relative to the bottom. Remember the old VW bugs, the rear always had camber issues if you raised or lowered them. If you raise your titan too much as with many leveling kits, the top of the tire will be farther out than the bottom (looking from the front of the truck) and you will need to adjust the lower a-arm bolts to push the bottom of the tire outward so it is closer to verticle. Keep in mind this adjustment is usually blamed for bad tire wear, but the culprit is usually improper toe. Look at a brand-new BMW, the rear tires have a ton of neg camber (top in more than the bottom) and this is from the factory and supposed to be this way. Toe adjustment is most critical, this is one makes the tires parrallel going forward. If they are off, tire wear is imminent, usually on the outside or inside edge. If you adjust either the caster or camber, your toe will be off excessivly and need to be corrected again. Anytime you raise or lower a stock titan, the toe will need to be adjusted thanks to Nissan giving us rather piss-poor steering geometry (called bump-steer). Toe can easily be set/checked with a simple tape measure. Also, if the steering wheel is slightly turned and you are going straight, that is NOT an alignment issue. It is a steering wheel adjsutment that is done using the tierods, but the alignment can be perfect and the sterring wheel off to one side.
I'll add this information:
MOOG Part # K80276 {Cam Bolt Kit}
Frt Susp; Lower Strut Mount; 2WD; adjustment range from -2 to +2 Deg.
Frt Susp; Lower Strut Mount; 4WD; adjustment range from -2 to +2 Deg.
Price was about $30
SPICER Part # 6111192
{Includes 2 bolts, 4 cam washers & 2 lock nuts}
Front Suspension; Plus or Minus 2 Degree Camber / Caster
Price was about $40
Those part numbers were from rockauto.com
Here is a link to the Genuine Nissan parts:
http://www.yournissanparts.com/cata...rsville&DeptID=188899&ItemID=9619767&detail=1
Taken completely from PRG's post over on CT:
'Since this seems to be the latest concern amoungst Titan owners, I'll address it here. Shown are 3 pics of three different bolts. The bolt on the left is a Procomp replacement bolt (with more adjustment than stock), the middle is a stock alignment cam bolt, the last is an '06 bolt. The bolts sit in a slotted hole and can move inward and outward to push the lower a-arm. You can use regular 9/16 bolts and get the same result, but you cannot use the markers that are on the cams and holding the postition can be difficult while tightening. Nissan quite using the alignment bolts after '05 in all trucks (Frontier, Pathfinder, Xterra, Titan, Armada) as the factory alignment (caster and camber) will be within spec in stock form. You can still adjust the toe on any of these vehicles. We build our leveling kits to a modest height with which you should NOT need the alignment cams, but some trucks may (very rarely) need them. Most leveling kits out there just want max height without regard to any other variable. Your dealer will replace the bolts with the alignment cams on a a stock truck, but with a leveling kit (or any lift for that matter) they will charge you. Hope this clears things up just a bit. If you've bought one of our kits, you should not need the cams. If you have one of OUR kits and are having trouble aligning your vehicle, please call me. Also, be sure not to mistake a toe adjustment (which IS needed) for a camber/caster adjustment.'
Maybe I should explain what an alignment consists of. There are three adjustments to the front of your titan, caster, camber, and toe. The first two you adjust by rotating the lower a-arm bolts (alignment cams) the toe you adjust using by lengthening or shortening the tie rod. Caster is the amount of angle between the upper and lowerball joints, you will not be able to change this much and you cant see if its off, so we wont even worry about it here. Camber is the difference that the top of the tire sticks-out or in, relative to the bottom. Remember the old VW bugs, the rear always had camber issues if you raised or lowered them. If you raise your titan too much as with many leveling kits, the top of the tire will be farther out than the bottom (looking from the front of the truck) and you will need to adjust the lower a-arm bolts to push the bottom of the tire outward so it is closer to verticle. Keep in mind this adjustment is usually blamed for bad tire wear, but the culprit is usually improper toe. Look at a brand-new BMW, the rear tires have a ton of neg camber (top in more than the bottom) and this is from the factory and supposed to be this way. Toe adjustment is most critical, this is one makes the tires parrallel going forward. If they are off, tire wear is imminent, usually on the outside or inside edge. If you adjust either the caster or camber, your toe will be off excessivly and need to be corrected again. Anytime you raise or lower a stock titan, the toe will need to be adjusted thanks to Nissan giving us rather piss-poor steering geometry (called bump-steer). Toe can easily be set/checked with a simple tape measure. Also, if the steering wheel is slightly turned and you are going straight, that is NOT an alignment issue. It is a steering wheel adjsutment that is done using the tierods, but the alignment can be perfect and the sterring wheel off to one side.
I'll add this information:
MOOG Part # K80276 {Cam Bolt Kit}
Frt Susp; Lower Strut Mount; 2WD; adjustment range from -2 to +2 Deg.
Frt Susp; Lower Strut Mount; 4WD; adjustment range from -2 to +2 Deg.
Price was about $30
SPICER Part # 6111192
{Includes 2 bolts, 4 cam washers & 2 lock nuts}
Front Suspension; Plus or Minus 2 Degree Camber / Caster
Price was about $40
Those part numbers were from rockauto.com
Here is a link to the Genuine Nissan parts:
http://www.yournissanparts.com/cata...rsville&DeptID=188899&ItemID=9619767&detail=1
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Stage 1 or Stage 2 PC Lift??ZMoney520 said:
Well, obviously, the alignment is off and it sounds like it's severely off. Do you trust your alignment shop? Has the same shop done the alignment every time?? Maybe they don't have a clue what they're doing since it's a lifted truck?? Was the alignment correct before you installed the lift kit?
What has me puzzled is how you guys seem to have the difference in wheel position in the wheel well from side to side. Unless something's bent, it's virtually impossible too have that much of a difference, you're claiming 1" or more of difference, sure you're not exaggerating the amount??
Yes, Nissan, for some reason designed the lower control arms to be able to slide back/forth within the mounts. That is likely where your creaking/cracking is coming from. PRG Products can hook you up with some Delrin spacers that you can install in there to take up the slop and center the arm within the mounts. He used Delrin so it would sorta 'cushion' it some, but you could probably just slap some washers in there of appropriate thickness. I did somewhat of an experiment: drove my truck around awile, came back to my apartment and pulled straight in to the parking space which is bound by a 10" high curb. As soon as I 'bounced' off the curb, it made the creaking sound, which I believe was the arm sliding in the mount, although it wasn't really visible that it had moved???
Other source of the creaking/cracking would be the stock coilovers OR, if you have the wheels cranked hard one way or another, the spindle's steering stops will rub on the LCA.
Mine has creaked/cracked since day one as well, haven't had any problems as a result though. I have new replacement longer coilvers to put on, but haven't had a chance yet. I hope this solves my issues.
Steering stop shown below, you can grind circled area off.
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Interesting!!! Good info to process!!!gnonice said:
so PRG doesn't have them? I'm gonna need them to crank my front saws up high when I get them.... guess I can call Bodean as well
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