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Anothe boring amp question

871 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  P-Dizzle
I'm not completely new to the car audio world, but not far from it. I am curious what the end effect is if I put a 5V (or higher) signal to an amp with a 4V sensitivity max (like Alpine MRP series)?

Does anyone know what the factory equalization is (settings, etc) on the RF systems?

Is the RF sub crossed at the amp or the sub? For that matter, the rest of the speakers.

Speaking of the amp, is it a 4 channel, 5 channel, more? That may be a dumb question since I know it's not that good.

Before I begin the arduous process of building a system for this truck I'm trying to understand all the nuances I'll encounter keeping the stock HU.

I know there are several good LOC's out there which would suit my needs, I'm trying to get a feel for the overall performance and schematic setup on the RF system.

Thanks in advance for the help. This site was extrmemly helpful the last time I built a system for my previous Titan.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-interior-discussion/20908-kc-sub-box-amp-rack.html

I still have that box. I'm debating whether or not to put it to use.
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Soonerdude said:
Does anyone know what the factory equalization is (settings, etc) on the RF systems?

Is the RF sub crossed at the amp or the sub? For that matter, the rest of the speakers.

Speaking of the amp, is it a 4 channel, 5 channel, more? That may be a dumb question since I know it's not that good.
The factory amp is a 7 or 8 channel, left and right dash (dash center speaker is piggybacked mono off the left/right dash outputs), left and right front doors, left and right rear doors, and a dual voice coil sub. I've read here (or at CT, I can't remember) that it's all crossed over in the amp. The dash is high passed, the front doors are band passed, the rear doors are full range, and the sub is low passed. This makes sense to me, but I'm not sure if its true because Tech and P-Diz advocate installing the REQ post amp in the RF system but I don't think they've said which outputs to tap. If it is crossed over in the amp, it seems that the only outputs to tap would be the rear doors as they would be the only full range outputs.
travelship said:
The factory amp is a 7 or 8 channel, left and right dash (dash center speaker is piggybacked mono off the left/right dash outputs), left and right front doors, left and right rear doors, and a dual voice coil sub. I've read here (or at CT, I can't remember) that it's all crossed over in the amp. The dash is high passed, the front doors are band passed, the rear doors are full range, and the sub is low passed. This makes sense to me, but I'm not sure if its true because Tech and P-Diz advocate installing the REQ post amp in the RF system but I don't think they've said which outputs to tap. If it is crossed over in the amp, it seems that the only outputs to tap would be the rear doors as they would be the only full range outputs.
You want to tap after the amp in the Rockford system. The write up on the REQ is for the NON Rockford system...
P-Dizzle said:
You want to tap after the amp in the Rockford system. The write up on the REQ is for the NON Rockford system...
Right, but which amp outputs do you tap?
travelship said:
Right, but which amp outputs do you tap?
I would tap at the sub and the door jams.
P-Dizzle said:
I would tap at the sub and the door jams.
Should I be concerned with "summing" the signals? I've seen a couple LOC's that sum the signals to get that full range signal back. Just in case I'm dense, summing won't correct the factory set EQ, correct?
Re: Another boring amp question

This diagram helps. I found it on RF's web page (who woulda thought?).

Any idea on my voltage question? I'm trying to narrow down my choices and I can't figure out what would happen if I put 5V (or higher) to a 4V amp.

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Should be fine. You may have to gain down the Alpine amp...
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