This is actually the site I used to locate my transmission...
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market It was $1,250.00 plus $175.00 for freight. Replacing it was a royal PIA- I did it the hard way...transmission and transfer case removed together in my garage using 2 floor jacks and minimal help. I'm sure it would have been easier separating the transfer case from the trans but it is very difficult to get to all of the bolts. Once you have it out and can see where all the bolts are and which direction they go in from- (most go in from rear to front but the ones on top go in front to rear).
Issues:
1) Time consuming to get all of the clips released securing the wiring harness without destroying them- I wanted it all to go back together properly so I took my time.
2)Bell housing bolts very tight and difficult to get to. My Kobalt 1/2” drive impact gun was not up to the task. My harbor freight ½” drive 30” breaker bar had so much flex and would wind up so much I would run out of room to turn it without it breaking loose the bolts. The bolt at 10:00 position almost beat me. Thought I was going to have to buy a very expensive high power impact gun to get it loose- persistence (over multiple days) finally won with the tools I had. Ended up with the floor jack handle slid over the breaker bar to get enough leverage to break it loose (again- running out of room to rotate due to limited space).
3)Could not get the slip fitting on the exhaust under the transmission to come apart- ended up cutting the exhaust to remove it so I could drop the trans down. More $$ at muffer shop.
4)Transmission/transfer case assembly very heavy and extremely awkward. Made a cradle out of 1x3’s and plywood to surround the trans pan to protect it from being damaged by the floor jack. Truck with 6” pro comp lift was just high enough off the ground to work on and be able to slide the transmission out from under- barely cleared the frame rail to be able to slide it out from under the truck.
5)Discovered it is about impossible to flush out the factory trans cooler to any degree that I would be satisfied that ALL of the debris from the failed transmission were removed. The inlet and outlet lines both come out of the top of the cooler. Gravity sucks I’ve been told…I was afraid metal shaving could possibly be trapped in the bottom of the cooler. I had read that replacing the cooler was always recommended when replacing the transmission anyways. Since removing the cooler and being able to turn it upside down and flushing it out seemed like more of a project than I wanted to get into I opted to bypass both the in radiator cooler (a good idea anyway- know issues with cracking radiator mixing coolant/transfluid) and the factory cooler (located between the radiator and the A/C condenser) and installing a Long Tru-Cool LPD4589 cooler. Just more $$$ but worth the piece of mind knowing your not pumping metal shavings thru your new/used/rebuilt trans after going thru all the work.
Tips:
1)Have help available
2)Have quality tools available
3) Lower the rear of the trans down as far as possible to allow access to bell housing/transfer case bolts
4)Make sure you flush the transmission lines out thoroughly
5)Spray exhaust pipe bolts with PB Blaster a day or two in advance and let it work
6)Have lots of patience
7)Have lots of beer on hand :big_grin:
