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Discussion Starter #21
I"ll have 2" leveling kit coming off my truck soon'ish...solid billet prg kit
I decided not to use blocks to lift my 04. I will be installing a set of 08 Moog 4x4 coil springs with a Bilstein 5100 and UCAs. According to present users of this combo ... they get 2.75-3.5 inch lift without using blocks and the advantage of increased travel.
 

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I love my Deaver C-10 rear springs. I got them from PRG too. It does lift the truck quite a bit. I recommend the shackles unless you want the rear really high. My shackles are at the lowest setting. Check out my pics.

kartdriver8
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I love my Deaver C-10 rear springs. I got them from PRG too. It does lift the truck quite a bit. I recommend the shackles unless you want the rear really high. My shackles are at the lowest setting. Check out my pics.kartdriver8
I got a nice surprise yesterday ... Just got delivery of my Deaver C-10 rear leaf springs from PRG 2 weeks ahead of their advertised shipping time of up to 4 weeks.

Anyway kartdriver, How much lift did you get from the C-10s at the regular shackle height? I was going for the original "raked" stance ... If I am getting 2.5-3" front lift (from a combo of '08 Moog 4x4 springs + Bilstein 5100 + UCAs) ... Do you think I still need the PRG adjustable shackles to lower the lift down a bit?

I'm gonna have a mechanic brother from church help me install all these this coming weekend.

Thanks bro
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Installed my Deaver C10 (from PRG ... thanks Greg) today and I totally scrapped the idea to install "lift shackles". I had an old set on hand I've ordered a years back then I saw an Ad by Max Trac and the picture looked stronger than the one I had so I purchased their set. THE PLAN was to install LIFT SHACKLES if the C-10s did not give sufficient lift I wanted ... BUT LO AND BEHOLD: The Deaver C-10s had an excellent lift that my son and I (for a combined weight of 450lbs) had to stand on the bed so that my mechanic could slide in the bolt of the bottom of the Bilstein 5100s (from TAP). I hope it settles a bit more after I drive it around a few miles. Rear is presently sitting at 42" ... No Blocks ... No lift shackles
 

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It seems like I read somewhere that these will help with axle wrap as well. I currently have rc traction bars, but the clanking over bumps is driving nuts. I am considering just changing out to the C-10 pack and getting rid of the bars and the 2" block as long as the wrap isn't too bad. Just thought I would ask before I order the C-10s.


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Installed my Deaver C10 (from PRG ... thanks Greg) today and I totally scrapped the idea to install "lift shackles". I had an old set on hand I've ordered a years back then I saw an Ad by Max Trac and the picture looked stronger than the one I had so I purchased their set. THE PLAN was to install LIFT SHACKLES if the C-10s did not give sufficient lift I wanted ... BUT LO AND BEHOLD: The Deaver C-10s had an excellent lift that my son and I (for a combined weight of 450lbs) had to stand on the bed so that my mechanic could slide in the bolt of the bottom of the Bilstein 5100s (from TAP). I hope it settles a bit more after I drive it around a few miles. Rear is presently sitting at 42" ... No Blocks ... No lift shackles
tease! more pics:crying::crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It seems like I read somewhere that these will help with axle wrap as well. I currently have rc traction bars, but the clanking over bumps is driving nuts. I am considering just changing out to the C-10 pack and getting rid of the bars and the 2" block as long as the wrap isn't too bad. Just thought I would ask before I order the C-10s.


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I personally believe that may be true because if you move something away from where it is anchored (like with the use of lift blocks on an axle away from the leaf spring) by law of physics movement by leverage is increased thus at full throttle from dead stop, axle wrap is potentially more possible. With the C-10s the axle is in direct contact with the leaf assembly minimizing that possibility. For what it's worth, I also used the same OEM C-clamps ... Meaning the axle itself was close to the OEM distance from the spring assembly
 

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I personally believe that may be true because if you move something away from where it is anchored (like with the use of lift blocks on an axle away from the leaf spring) by law of physics movement by leverage is increased thus at full throttle from dead stop, axle wrap is potentially more possible. With the C-10s the axle is in direct contact with the leaf assembly minimizing that possibility. For what it's worth, I also used the same OEM C-clamps ... Meaning the axle itself was close to the OEM distance from the spring assembly
That was the thought process I was following as well. The extra leafs would firm up the existing pack providing more support where as the block acts more like a fulcrum allowing it to flex easier.

Oh well, guess I will have to get a set and just test it out. Hopefully I still have my original ubolts. I think the ones I have on now will be too long.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
That was the thought process I was following as well. The extra leafs would firm up the existing pack providing more support where as the block acts more like a fulcrum allowing it to flex easier.

Oh well, guess I will have to get a set and just test it out. Hopefully I still have my original ubolts. I think the ones I have on now will be too long.
Smart minds think alike :rockon You could always cut them bro ... but cut them with the nuts already threaded in ... so you won't have difficulty setting the nuts into the newly cut threaded bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Rear height achieved with Deaver C-10 is unchanged at 42" after driving around on rough for 10 miles. My little Titan 4x4 is finally growing looking up to his big older brothers. Pictures below (L) after the Deaver C-10 and (R) stock suspension with Hellwig taction springs.
 

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My C-10's in action :)

 

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may have been addressed already, but what is the difference between c-30's and c-10's?


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may have been addressed already, but what is the difference between c-30's and c-10's?


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C30's provide a little more lift and provide more load handling than the C10's and are said to be just a little stiffer than the C10's as well.
 

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What rear shocks are you using?
Like my sig says, SAW's 2.25" piggys......The C-10's for me ride better then stock, but the overload leaf is long gone and when I tow heavy the back will drop up to a couple of inches depending on the tongue weight of the trailer...but that's for like a 20ft enclosed trailer...It's all good though because my custom shock mounts allow more compression travel then most (of course at the cost of droop travel) and even with the rear end dropping that much, I still have a couple of inches before hitting the air bumps....
 
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You're not using the RC cast metal extended end links are you? If you are, then get rid of those things as soon as possible. They're junk. Get the PRG heimed adjustable end links. They are much better and safer too.
 
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Discussion Starter #39
You're not using the RC cast metal extended end links are you? If you are, then get rid of those things as soon as possible. They're junk. Get the PRG heimed adjustable end links. They are much better and safer too.

You mean the front sway bar end links? You're right ... they're cast, looks junk but I already had them installed. No worries ... they're the next to go after I get rid of my Bilstein 5100 rears with the 5125 or the King rear shocks ... wherever my budget is at ... at that moment I decide to purchase from PRG.

Well, we all have to live and learn
 

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