your wallet will take a beating.
everything else is worked out.
everything else is worked out.
Anyone Experience Damage from Lift/Leveling Kits????
Hey guys. The stock tires on my 2012 SV 4x4 are about to the end of their life (thank goodness) and I’m thinking about doing a lift/leveling kit along with some new bigger tires. I have about decided on PRG’s “3.5 w/Rear” kit that includes Bilsteins all the way around, a 2” block in the front and a 1.5” block in the rear along with cam bolts, end links, UCA’s, etc. I have read hundreds of posts from others talking about their setups and most everyone seems happy with their results, but I am curious if anyone has had any damage or premature failure of CV joints, ball joints or the like from running these kits. I have read threads on other forums saying you should stay away from these kits because they will mess up your front end, so I would like to hear from some of you that have a lot of miles on one of these kits to see what your experience has been. I hope this is just an over exaggeration because I think the kits look great and would like to have one on my truck. My tire size of choice would be a 295/70/18 on stock wheel. If that won’t clear without rubbing or needing a pwm, I will drop back to a 295/65/18. Thanks for any feedback!
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Wallet can handle the kit and the tires but I don't want it to be a money pit after that. Thanks for the feedback. Anyone else have any opinion? Do you think the 295/70/18 will fit without any rubbing or pwm?
I had a level kit on my 05 Titan with zero issues.
I have a 9" lift and the only thing it wears out is wheel bearings a little quicker than usual, but nothing terrible, and theyre cheap and easy enough to change when necessary.
I think you would be safer doing a 2.5" or 3" kit instead of the 3.5". Front CV axles don't like anything over 3", too much of an angle. I would also bet with 3.5", your going to have some CB contact on the 4wd.
Thanks for jumping in. I've read a bunch of your posts on this subject! So, that's kind of what I was wondering (if this kit takes it too high in the front). From what I've read, the Bilsteins on middle setting give me ~1 inch. Add the 2" block and that = 3" right? Are you saying that would be too much? Also, you think CB contact would be an issue even with the aftermarket UCA's?
Like Fishing said 3 inches max with out dropping the front differential down. 2 inch spacer and bilsteins on middle setting would achieve this. You still might have CBC with stock UCAs but there are plenty of good priced after market UCAs.
he said he's getting PRG uppers, you won't have any issues with those.
i run through CV boots about every 60k miles on my pro4x with 3" of lift.
do prg's 3" front and 1" rear lift setup instead of the 3.5and1.5. or buy a billet 2" leveling kit and 1" block plus ubolts off the forums or eBay, DirtKing upper control arms, and the other small stuff from other vendors and you will get it all cheaper and you'll actually get your parts.
i run through CV boots about every 60k miles on my pro4x with 3" of lift.
do prg's 3" front and 1" rear lift setup instead of the 3.5and1.5. or buy a billet 2" leveling kit and 1" block plus ubolts off the forums or eBay, DirtKing upper control arms, and the other small stuff from other vendors and you will get it all cheaper and you'll actually get your parts.
Wow. CV boots every 60k huh? Yes, 3 is the max that I would do in the front. May bump the block down to a 1.5.
3" with DK or PRG arms and you shouldn't have any problems at all - Bilsteins on middle setting and a 1.5 or 2" spacer would be perfect, then slap on a 1.5" rear block. My setup has me at 40.5 all the way around (5100's mid perch, 1.5" spacer, 1.5" block, rear 5125's) I agree with Honda, buy your parts separate and you will get a better price, PRG has been known to take a long time to ship parts. Get solid billet aluminum blocks, spacers and rubber extended bump stops off ebay, buy your UCA's and Bilsteins from TAP, get some cam bolts and end links from performancelifts, there you go your done...
Sounds good. Thanks for the tips. If there's money to be saved by busting up the package between a few different vendors, I will check that out. As far as the tire size goes, I still haven't seen anyone with my proposed setup that's running a 295/70/18. I've seen some guys with Pro-4x's running them but not sure I could get them under my setup without any rubbing. Can anyone tell me for sure? If not I can drop back to the 295/65/18 I guess. I know someone who is running those with just a 1.5 block in the front and nothing else.
I have a 2011 Pro4X, PRG mini lift which is 1.5" spacer up front and 1" block in rear. Bilstein 5100's all around set on middle perch up front, RC UCA's and am running Cooper Discoverer STT Pro's in 295 70 18. I have slight rubbing and have been meaning to do the PWM. I do have slight frame rub when I turn hard. It's easily avoidable though. Sorry I don't have better pics. I have some in my garage. Some are pre Bilsteins some are not.
![Land vehicle Vehicle Car Tire Automotive tire]()
Very happy with the look, stance and set up! MPGs went from ****ty to ****tier! haha
Looks awesome Viking! How are those coopers?
Thanks man! I love em! I've run Coopers for a while now. Last set was the older model of the same tire only in Stock Pro4X size. The new ones are similar and called STT Pro's. They were expensive but I love em! They seem to be wearing well and evenly. I rotate them about every 6,000 miles.
Looks good! Thanks for the pictures.
i ran that size for 40k miles....loved them. i was running 3" of lift for a while, and then 2" of lift, and then back to 3". they cleared fine until i added 1.25 adaptors lol. then i had to trim the PWM more.Sounds good. Thanks for the tips. If there's money to be saved by busting up the package between a few different vendors, I will check that out. As far as the tire size goes, I still haven't seen anyone with my proposed setup that's running a 295/70/18. I've seen some guys with Pro-4x's running them but not sure I could get them under my setup without any rubbing. Can anyone tell me for sure? If not I can drop back to the 295/65/18 I guess. I know someone who is running those with just a 1.5 block in the front and nothing else.
they did barely rub the frame at full lock before the adaptors.
Thanks to all for the feedback. Time to go spend a bunch of money!
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