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Anyone Replaced their Engine Mounts? Any Tips? NOT Transmission Mounts....

17K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  patricktxfl  
#1 ·
Took my truck in to the dealership to have it checked out at 150,000 miles and replace some hoses. When they did a full inspection they made a list of some
other items I needed to consider replacing to bring it up to spec. One of those items was the Motor Mounts (2). HOWEVER, I noticed they want $982 to replace EACH one!!!! Are YFK Me?!?! I checked online and the Insulator-Engine Mounting Parts are $304 EACH, but PRG makes some that are $150/pair, so I think I'll be going in the PRG direction.

Anyone changed theirs?
Any good tips or instructions/videos how to do this, so I don't kill or injure myself doing it?

I recently had to replace my transmission mount for the 2nd time in 20,000+ miles. OEM Titan part lasted me 130,000 miles! At 130k, I made the mistake of using a crappy Amazon knock-off Frontier part(which was SUPPOSED to be better), but just replaced it back to an OEM Titan part and hoping it lasts as long as the original.

Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Bad motor mounts can cause the fan to contact the radiator. KaBoom.
Ask @RobKar here on this site.
 
#3 · (Edited)
DEA makes good motor mounts ~ $50 and they are every bit as good as OEM.

The hard part is taking the original mounts out, because of location. Where are you located, maybe I can recommend a shop?
In San Diego:
Phantastic Auto Repair ... Peter knows what he is doing with our trucks.
10223 Mast Blvd
Ste A
Santee, CA 92071

Phone number (619) 596-5809

As far as what Walrus said... Exactly! Fan contact is bad... Ask me how I know...
 
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#4 ·
I can't imagine they are harder than my xk8 I did. I bet there is a video on youtube. Tool at harbor feight
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
Might have to have a few tools not in the normal tool box but nothing crazy.

Might be able to rent the for the day somewhere. Simple concept the feet go on either side where fender meets engine bay, two chain points, simply crank on the big wing nuts until you get enough clearance. I didn't have to take any hoses lose.

If you don't have any mechanical skills might want to get some help for this one be safe.
 
#5 ·
And a gorilla arm ;)... Them bolts are tight and in a hard access point on the drivers side. Now, don't get me wrong, if you replaced headers this could be a walk in the park :big_grin:.
 
#6 ·
Thank you gents, appreciate the assist. Think I'll buy the PRG replacement mounts and give it a try.
Going to need a long ratchet extension, a u-joint fitting, and my breaker bar to get those bolts loose I'm sure.
Having a lift on my truck gives me more room, so it may not be as bad as installing on an all OEM truck.

Patricktxfl, always glad to find an excuse to get a new tool. That can come in handy.....thanks!
 
#9 ·
Feedback on one of the PRG mounts indicated that it was too stiff and transmitted a lot of vibration into the cab. I don't remember if it was the transmission mount or the motor mount. Either way, if the OEM mounts lasted more than 100K miles I would be inclined to go with OEM. RobKar's recommendation aside, if I couldn't find a long term review of an aftermarket part I would be very reluctant to go with it. You don't want to have to do this job more than once every 10 years.

Replacing motor mounts is not a job I would look forward to on a 4x4. I loosened the bolts on the motor mounts when I did my headers and even that was a pain. The dealer replaced the exhaust manifolds about a year before I did my headers and they failed to replace one of the bolts in the motor mount. That _may_ have contributed to the destruction of my brand spanking new CSF double row radiator.

On a 4x4 it may be easier to drop the front differential/axle down to get access to the motor mounts. Once the bolts have been removed it is _very_ difficult to get them lined back up. A misaligned bolt can get cross-threaded. There are a couple guys on the forum that dropped the differential/axle to do their headers and reported that it was much easier that way.
 
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#10 ·
Hmmm, now you've got me rethinking HRKTD......... I had heard about the stiffness of the PRG mount, but that was on their transmission mount. Given that they use urethane for absorption, which is more rigid than rubber, I can understand why. I'm really going to have to think about this and do a mock breakdown/install before I order anything. All I know is that OEM parts cost more than 3x what the PRG do.....BUT, like you said, I don't want to have to do it again in less than 10 years. Thx.
 
#13 ·
Don't cross thread a motor mount bolt, you'll end up like me and have a bad time.
 

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#14 ·
Well after all that crap, I crawled under there and had my wife rev the motor in Park. Rock solid at 150,000 miles. Stealership was full of crap!!!