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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
update, changed a couple weeks or a week ago to Peerless SLS 8"s and they have more impact and output down into the sub bass region enough for easier location of the rattling :) disconnected every speaker in the truck besides this one side to test ;) I also glassed my rings non hardening clayed them and the drivers to the doors and think that's about it. besides the addition of the 4" mids in glass pods I made a while back and running a full 3 way front stage all active :)

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=55302531

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=54797511

here's a short of the 4" mids doing their thing also..

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=47974987

I got a set of DLS refrence's I put in mine, I'm kinda happy with them... smoother than my MBQ's and similar midbass to my Hifonics Atlas 6x9"s... pretty efficient too, overall not bad imo... I suppose if I could do it again I'd get higher end ones... I'll probably upgrade eventually, for now I'm happy with them though :D





late! oh yeah, I used the stock passive and 1" soft dome tweets... not as loud as some others I've used, like the Critical Mass T-1A tweets, but those tweets cost more than this comp set :lol: plus they can be harsh since they're part titanium... not full soft, they're a hybrid silk/titanium tweet... still not too bad, selling them actually so I can fund more toys :D
 

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That is COOL!!! I have been thinking about doing the same thing. Install the 8" woofers (midbass) in the front doors, 6.5" (midrange) in the kick panels, and tweeters in the dash or the kickpanels. What is the mounting depth of your 8's, and does the door rattle???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
rattle.. no, I think they're about 3-4" if I had to guess.. I used two 3/4" mdf rings to space it, and they clear everything... u could probably get more than that... nothing rattles I don't think I have deadener in my door that I put in there when I bought the truck....
 

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You should seal up the doors. It really helps out with the midbass.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
their sealed, I have ALOT of deadener in there... I just didn't waste alot around the edges... play some loud midbass and only have your door speakers on, have the panels off... and feel where it flexes the most, the middle not the edges ;) check out the threads on deadener on like the diy forum or ca.com maybe google search, a guy did a review on a whole crapload of different ones. basically, it helps with midbass deadening the doors, and if you do it right on the outer skin of the door, you can lessen distorting backwaves for upper frequencies...

and those little holes have wires threw them, that was my test fitting :D but I put deadener over all but the mounting holes, just don't have pix there... thanks for the comment :D I made a vid of it rattling my window but I couldn't catch it on the camera then ran out of memory on the card LOL

I'm actually more interested in trying to do like a home audio removeable type grill taking up to where the tweet is and down below the 8" so the entire cone has a more clear pathway unobstructed, but I'm gonna pitch the scheem to someone who does cleaner work than me for that LOL I figure if I can get an inch or two clear around the entire 8" I'd be stoked... we'll see how much it'll cost, I may do it myself, but I don't want to screw it up...
 

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The 6.5' iridiums are excelent but I want to try the 8" Nobelliums myself. Just can't justify the upgrade :)

It's all in the install, at a small local meet, my 6.5's had more bass and sounded better and imaged better than another guy with the 3 ways and 8" mids (both DLS Iridiums). Titan Vs Miada though, I think the tweeters in his doors were too directional and he was getting nasty cancelation, it sounded much better with his doors open than closed, my install is the oposite..
 

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Justintoxicated said:
The 6.5' iridiums are excelent but I want to try the 8" Nobelliums myself. Just can't justify the upgrade :)

It's all in the install, at a small local meet, my 6.5's had more bass and sounded better and imaged better than another guy with the 3 ways and 8" mids (both DLS Iridiums). Titan Vs Miada though, I think the tweeters in his doors were too directional and he was getting nasty cancelation, it sounded much better with his doors open than closed, my install is the oposite..
Sounds like yours is the way to go. Not very practicle driving down the road with the doors open.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't think I caught the window rattling, the vid is higher res on my computer but myspace made it smaller/compressed I guess or de-resolutionized :D idunno, they made it suck like my sig vid basically...

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=19799904

you can kinda see the door deadened, I was just trying to record the window rattling from the midbass LOL I disconnected my subs to test the mids and to my surprise it actually hits and rattles things, so I made a small vid... I'd love to try nobeliums, you can find them and iridiums cheap online sometimes... I think I'll try the Peerless XLS 8"s if I want more midbass and move to higher end comps and the dome mid from the 3 way or run different mids doesn't have to be DLS DIY gets more props anyway :D from the people in the know so long it's tuned right and performs ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
got me a little DLS CA31 amp to run it all now, sounds about the same I guess... was using an old skool zed amp... so I suppose it was already fine...
 

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How much did you have to space them out if any? Did it affect the door panel going back on? One more, Does the inside of the panel look like it will conflict with the excursion?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
inside panel doesn't conflict at all... I have it spaced 1.5" so the basket cleared the door without cutting it... I'm planning to get a cloth grille and tear the door apart since it blocks half the mid and make the grille opening larger than the driver and more acoustically transparent :D

and the stock 6x9"s are facing straight out, since the spacer was angled down and the doors are angled up, now the drivers fire upwards, and I didn't space it out as much as the stock spacer on the upper side so yeah, all clearances are fine... these trucks were made perfect for it besides blocking half the driver :lol:
 

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Hawaiianbasshead said:
inside panel doesn't conflict at all... I have it spaced 1.5" so the basket cleared the door without cutting it... I'm planning to get a cloth grille and tear the door apart since it blocks half the mid and make the grille opening larger than the driver and more acoustically transparent :D

and the stock 6x9"s are facing straight out, since the spacer was angled down and the doors are angled up, now the drivers fire upwards, and I didn't space it out as much as the stock spacer on the upper side so yeah, all clearances are fine... these trucks were made perfect for it besides blocking half the driver :lol:
Yea I completely removed that stock POS Plastic Rattle Trap as well, just made and MDF spacer and sealed it too the door with Weatherstripping tape to ensure a good seal. Even with 6.5 you can definately rattle the interior.

Might as well keep the DLS mids and add some more dedicated midbass drivers for the extra impact if your looking for more bass.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nah, better midbass drivers did it for me ;) updated 1st post with vids. Peerless SLS 8"s gonna be selling the DLS 8"s to a guy this week locally for $70 w/passives no tweets tho... blew one thus the blau vc100s. plus the reference series DLS tweets sucked anyway LOL. just was never too into mids and highs before going and researching on diyma for a couple years. now I know what is what a little..
 
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