Nissan Titan Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here goes. I have a 2010 Titan SE, which runs great (226,000 + miles on it) Recently, I took a trip for funeral and upon arriving at my destination, my brake pedal went all the way to the floorboard. Fortunately, I had slowed down enough to stop.

I replaced the master cylinder (new) and power booster (new). After bleeding, etc, my brakes lock up......all 4 wheels.

My mechanic checked the new part installation and said it was all correct.

There is no error code and we've tried every angle we can think of......except replacing the calipers. However, I don't want to continue to replace parts on a "maybe this is the problem" type of venue

Has anyone else experienced this?

Greatly appreciate the feed back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Sorry I don't have the answer, but try to just bleed off the line pressure at the caliper. that will tell you if the caliper is bad/Frozen. the issue May have something to do with traction control, so try turning traction control off. Best of luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
If you bled the brakes the conventional way (someone putting pedal pressure) you may have an airlock in your ABS system. Either use a pressure bleeder (Motive Products) or get Nissan or some other brake shop with the right computer connection to cycle the ABS pump to bleed it.
 

·
Registered
2021 Titan Pro4x
Joined
·
823 Posts
If you bled the brakes the conventional way (someone putting pedal pressure) you may have an airlock in your ABS system. Either use a pressure bleeder (Motive Products) or get Nissan or some other brake shop with the right computer connection to cycle the ABS pump to bleed it.
This x2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you bled the brakes the conventional way (someone putting pedal pressure) you may have an airlock in your ABS system. Either use a pressure bleeder (Motive Products) or get Nissan or some other brake shop with the right computer connection to cycle the ABS pump to bleed it.
At this point, I may have to take it to a Nissah dealer for a fix.

I guess $1500 is better than a car payment.

Thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Shouldn't be $1500 to bleed them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I am sure you already know you have a great Truck, over 200K miles. It is worth fixing. I just traded in my 2012SL for a 2021 SL, sometimes wish I kept the old one. The new one is nice, most mechanical are the same, just new electric's. But it is a nice truck too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am sure you already know you have a great Truck, over 200K miles. It is worth fixing. I just traded in my 2012SL for a 2021 SL, sometimes wish I kept the old one. The new one is nice, most mechanical are the same, just new electric's. But it is a nice truck too.
[/QUOTE
I want to keep the truck and don't want to trade it in. I know things are going to need upgrading, however it' been a great truck. Driven to Florida from Central Texas numerous times; Kansas, etc. I love the ride and comfort, not to mention the power still on the engine.

Mostly, I want to park it and buy something more economical and keep it for camping trips, etc.

I appreciate the feedback.

Regards,

Daniel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I had a similar experience with my 2005. The aftermarket master cylinder didn't have a deep enough pocket for the boisters pushrod. I had 2 space the master cylinder away from the booster using a washer or two. I had to add an o-ring around the base of the master cylinder to ensure it sealed tightly on the booster.

I discovered that it's a common problem with the after market cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Here goes. I have a 2010 Titan SE, which runs great (226,000 + miles on it) Recently, I took a trip for funeral and upon arriving at my destination, my brake pedal went all the way to the floorboard. Fortunately, I had slowed down enough to stop.

I replaced the master cylinder (new) and power booster (new). After bleeding, etc, my brakes lock up......all 4 wheels.

My mechanic checked the new part installation and said it was all correct.

There is no error code and we've tried every angle we can think of......except replacing the calipers. However, I don't want to continue to replace parts on a "maybe this is the problem" type of venue

Has anyone else experienced this?

Greatly appreciate the feed back.
100 % agree on spacers on Master Cylinder. I added two washers to each side to space out appx 1/8 inch. Cut them into a C shape to drop over the bolts so i did not have to remove the Master Cylinder. Known issue on aftermarket Master Cylinders. you may have to play with spacing, but move it out just enough to release the brakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I had to replace the booster on my '05 and that pushrod has to be in there just right. Mine BROKE SOMETHING OFF inside the booster. Thankfully O'Reilly replaced it. It's pretty fiddly up under that cowl blind and all.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top