[MuyCaliente]

ok gentlemen,

It appears (like tires) I need brakes. Tires I got (or gonna get) but, i'm contemplating on what "brand" of brakes I should get.

I dont tow (much) with it, and I get a discount on EBC brake pads. so I want to get EBC break pads.

as far as the rotors, I'm thinking of going with brembos, or even stillen or summit cross-drilled. (not sure if can turn slotted rotors)

now, the caliper(s). I'm thinking of baer or wildwood calipers. preferably dual piston.

my oem BOSCH calipers are fine, but, might as well change everything at once.


any comments/suggestions/advice/opinions are highly encouraged. I just hope wilwood and baer do in fact make the calipers for my T, since only certain sites can "special order" them.


thanks!

 

[StormTroopin]

The only real kit that I've seen is the Stillen Big Brake Kit. I'm not sure changing calipers individually is very popular on these trucks due to limited aftermarket...

For rotors look up Frozen rotor's and hawk pads. BlackBeauty has an install/review thread somewhere

Edit: There ---> http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-faq-howto-area/84176-installation-frozen-rotors-hawk-pads.html

 

[frozenrotors]

MuyCaliente,

I guess my first question is. Why do you want to spend a pant load of money on a BBK? Unless you're towing. (which you say you don't) the only possible reasons for NEEDING a BBK is you're after that "fill up my wheels' look. You're a Professional Off-Road Racer and plan on doing some dessert racing, You road race you're 4x4x or You would like to empty you're checking account! The point I'm trying to make is simple. Most people don't need em. I think they are beautifully crafted, functional, and do look cool....but they're expensive! $3-10 k expensive!
I sell alot of them, but to racers, and they usually need them. You can do much better than the stock system, by maximizing what you already have. A majority of the my customers opt for using Frozen Slotted rotors. Slotted, because they channel water off of the face of the rotor and away from the pads. That gives you better pad 'bite' and much better pedal feel. They also dissipate heat much better, and allows the layer of gas that develops during braking, to escape. Again giving you better pedal feel, and pad bite.
We have found through extensive testing, that the Titan's and a vast majority of SUV's work best with the Hawk LTS (Light Truck SUV) pads. They have very minimal dust, stop VERY well (hot and cold) don't fade, and are very quiet. Plus they don't kill you're rotors like ceramics will. Of course you don't need to slot them, however most people do.
And of course the Cryo-Treating adds alot of durability and longevity to the rotor wear life. Usually a minimum of 100% more rotor life. Obviously you can read what others have said about them on this forum and others. They WORK !

Hope this helps.
If you have additional questions or would like to place you're order. Please call me. I can offer a 15% discount on 4 rotors and 2 axle sets of pads, but the discount has to be applied manually. The website isn't recognizing the the discount at 'check out'. Software problem. Just ask for me.

Thanks again for considering Frozen Rotors.

Keith
[email protected]
1.888.323.8456 / 952.746.8880 M-F 8:00am - 5:00 pm CST

 

[gweasel77]

I went with a set of "cryo" slotted Frozen Rotor's & Hawk LTS Pad's & i absolutely love them!!! I highly recommend them!!!

 

[Teh Wicked]

Disc Brake Rotors & Pads | R1Concepts.com

I just installed the drilled and slotted rotors and a set of there ceramic pads on my Titan yesterday, Best mod I have ever done by far. And it only cost $130 shipped to my front door when I ordered them off Ebay.

Why spend $4,000 on a big brake kit when you dont need it? Thats alot of money on just a brake kit when your stock ones perform just fine.

 

[Milehigh Titan]

The last set of Power Slot rotos I had said that you cannot turn these rotors

 

[frozenrotors]

Milehigh Titan,

Three questions for you.
Where did you purchase you're Power Slots? And who told you couldn't turn them ? And why do you think you need to do so?

Keith

 

[etalian2005]

FrozenRotors,

I understand the difference in looks between cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs. slotted rotors. I think the cross-drilled look is awesome, but do you think it is necessary for a Titan. Does it decrease pad life with the (cheese grater) effect? Will it cause excessive brake dust? I'm curious.

 

[frozenrotors]

Etalian2005,

I suppose it's time for some clarification in regards to cross-drilling and slotting. Cross drilling was introduced through the racing world back in the 50's and 60's just after disc brake's became common. The cross drilling did help reduce brake temperatures, but at the sacrifice of rotor wear and life. They are prone to heat cracking around the holes and will eventually fill up with pad material, rendering the cooling benefits useless. (unless you take the time to clean them out) Early on the factories could afford to use these, because of large budgets and the fact that in the racing world. These components are considered almost disposable! The rotors were engineered to last just long enough to complete 1-2 races or testing before they were thrown away.
Slotting entered the market in the same manner, only the benefits were, that they do not cause heat cracking if the are configured and machined properly. The slots also improve 'wet' weather braking (like the cross drilled) with out filling any holes up with pad material or heat cracking. They also serve as a 'wiper' slot, aiding in keeping the pad to rotor interface clean with each wheel rotation.
Unless you're using your Titan as a show truck, they are impractical and serve no real benefit except aesthetic purposes.(looks)
A majority of the Titan owners purchase the slotted frozen rotor for, improved wet weather performance, better stopping, lower brake temperatures, and obviously because they don't warp and last considerably longer than other rotors. (Cryo-Treating accomplishes this). They also choose Hawk LTS (Light Truck, SUV) pads. These are engineered for the weight and operating conditions of this type of vehicle. They out stop, produce very minimum dust, don't fade, and are quiet.

And YES, cross drilling can and will act like a 'cheese grater' on your pads if they are not machined properly or if you use the wrong pad compound.

Hope this helps.

Feel free to contact me if you have further questions.

Keith
[email protected]

1.888.323.8456
952.746.8880

 

[etalian2005]

Etalian2005,

I suppose it's time for some clarification in regards to cross-drilling and slotting. Cross drilling was introduced through the racing world back in the 50's and 60's just after disc brake's became common. The cross drilling did help reduce brake temperatures, but at the sacrifice of rotor wear and life. They are prone to heat cracking around the holes and will eventually fill up with pad material, rendering the cooling benefits useless. (unless you take the time to clean them out) Early on the factories could afford to use these, because of large budgets and the fact that in the racing world. These components are considered almost disposable! The rotors were engineered to last just long enough to complete 1-2 races or testing before they were thrown away.
Slotting entered the market in the same manner, only the benefits were, that they do not cause heat cracking if the are configured and machined properly. The slots also improve 'wet' weather braking (like the cross drilled) with out filling any holes up with pad material or heat cracking. They also serve as a 'wiper' slot, aiding in keeping the pad to rotor interface clean with each wheel rotation.
Unless you're using your Titan as a show truck, they are impractical and serve no real benefit except aesthetic purposes.(looks)
A majority of the Titan owners purchase the slotted frozen rotor for, improved wet weather performance, better stopping, lower brake temperatures, and obviously because they don't warp and last considerably longer than other rotors. (Cryo-Treating accomplishes this). They also choose Hawk LTS (Light Truck, SUV) pads. These are engineered for the weight and operating conditions of this type of vehicle. They out stop, produce very minimum dust, don't fade, and are quiet.

And YES, cross drilling can and will act like a 'cheese grater' on your pads if they are not machined properly or if you use the wrong pad compound.

Hope this helps.

Feel free to contact me if you have further questions.

Keith
[email protected]

1.888.323.8456
952.746.8880

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Keith. How much pad/rotor life would be reduced with the cross-drilled. I think they look awesome, but I don't need something that looks cool that is going to wear out too quickly and end up costing me more.

 

[Titanistic]

The Brembos are beastly in terms of performance, weight, and price. The additional weight of the 14'' rotors & the 8 piston calipers add a ton of unsprung weight. Enough to throw off your ride quality actually. Plus you will have to ALWAYS deal with fitment issues for wheels. But I wouldnt trade them for anything!

The cross drilled gives out a certain noise too when braking. The best I can explain it by is a cricket chirping. If i were to do it again I would choose the slotted over the drilled.

Make sure you take into consideration ALL the variables here. Because a simple click of the mouse can turn into more money having to be spent later.

 

[frozenrotors]

Etalian 2005,

It depends largely on the way you drive you're vehicle and where you drive the vehicle. But in most cases an average cross drilled rotor in a 'spirited' or performance diving environment can usually expect the pads and rotors to wear out 2x's as fast as non cross drilled rotors. I can't comment on any noise issues with x-drilled or slotted rotors, because I've never had it happen in over 30 years of high performance driving. Rotor and Pad quality plays a big part in this equations well. Low cost, low quality pads and rotors will greatly reduce the usable life cycle of the brake system. X-drilling accelerates this process.

 

[Titanistic]

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Keith. How much pad/rotor life would be reduced with the cross-drilled. I think they look awesome, but I don't need something that looks cool that is going to wear out too quickly and end up costing me more.

Honestly pad life with the cross drilled isnt anything to worry about. I would say 5-10% difference in normal everyday driving. The benefits and looks make up for it in the end.

 

[etalian2005]

Interesting...when the time comes to replace my rotors, I'll have to take a look at this in more detail.

 

[MuyCaliente]

well, after much research, i decided to keep the oem bosch calipers, and stock rotors and just upgrade to EBC brake pads.

I've had HAWK pads on my altima se-r and my girlfriends 2.0 sentra and they wear out like crazy.

well hers i know she cant drive like normal people and she probably drove with the e-brake on or something. the altima just gobbled up the hawk pads and stillen rotors.

 

[Titanistic]

I was close. I figured you would end up going with a OEM sized new rotor and EBC pads. I think you will like the EBC pads. But as with anything its all about your application, and choice of parts.

Good luck!

 

[frozenrotors]

MuyCaliente,

What type of pads did you put on you're girlfriends car? Brake pads, like tires. Come in many different compounds. Usually the parking brake is a 'drum' type and is actually inside and part of the rear rotors. They use brake shoes for the E-brake and brake pads for stopping the car. If she's wearing out rotors and pads. She probably needs to change the type (compound) of pad she's using. She would also benefit from a set of Cryogenically treated rotors. Frozen Rotors - High Performance Brake Pads, Brake Rotors Cryo treating the rotors will greatly improve and extend the life of the rotors, while an appropriate pad compound will improve performance and stopping power and lengthen the usable life of the pads.
I think it's a wise decision to stay with the stock calipers and rotor size, but again, as you will find the rotors will eventually give up the ghost and start pulsing in the pedal, and shaking in the steering wheel.
If you want to end that problem, then let me know.

Hope this helps.

Keith
[email protected]

 

[gweasel77]

I agree.

The OEM rotor's are the problem. They warp very quickly & that's what causes the steering wheel wobble.