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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didnt know where I should post this but thought this was the best area since most people on here would know more about the electrical components.

I want to move my battery to the bed on my 08 and noticed that there is a sort of fuse on the negitive cable that runs into the battery. I was planning on running the postive cable all the way back to the bed from the engine bay but for the negitive I wanted to just ground it off the frame in the rear. Anyone know what that fuse or sensor is on the negitive terminal and if it will affect anything but disconnecting it?
 

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I'm getting ready to do it too Nick seeing as I don't have fender wells any more. I have to do it this weekend. I was planning on grounding it to the frame in the rear too so I will let you know if I run into any problems or not. I was going to order the kit thing that Bobby used but I have access to all the wire and everything that I need at work so I'm not going to waste the money. I'll take some pics of what I do.
 

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Where did you get that box? Looks pretty sturdy. I am considering the same thing.



i was going to mount a optima under my bed in the holddown below. then mount remote terminals off the back so i can charge it or jump easier
 

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Funny how we must all be thinking of the same thing around the same timeframe... Couple of weeks ago, I bought two new non-lead terminals and 15 feet of braided 4 guage copper wire ($70). Last week, I ordered a vented battery box to mount in the bed of my T. Once I get the box, I plan on leaving the OEM terminals intact and securing them somewhere out of the way inside the engine bay. Now I'm wondering if I should upgrade to 2 guage wire... I was planning to the positive wire down and along the frame up into the passenger front corner of the bed. Once I mount the battery box, and re-install the battery, I was going to run a secondary ground from the battery to the frame as well... tying in the ground from the forward position is a must as well... hhhmmmm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Funny how we must all be thinking of the same thing around the same timeframe... Couple of weeks ago, I bought two new non-lead terminals and 15 feet of braided 4 guage copper wire ($70). Last week, I ordered a vented battery box to mount in the bed of my T. Once I get the box, I plan on leaving the OEM terminals intact and securing them somewhere out of the way inside the engine bay. Now I'm wondering if I should upgrade to 2 guage wire... I was planning to the positive wire down and along the frame up into the passenger front corner of the bed. Once I mount the battery box, and re-install the battery, I was going to run a secondary ground from the battery to the frame as well... tying in the ground from the forward position is a must as well... hhhmmmm...
Do you have that current sensor as well? So you are gonna run both cables from the engine bay to the bed?
 

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Do you have that current sensor as well? So you are gonna run both cables from the engine bay to the bed?
I was actually hoping not to have to and just wire it directly to the frame, but will check when the ole' man gets back with my T after droppin off the lil tikes at school... as for the battery cables, I am not sure what the OEM cable is and will also verify that... From AII's picture, they look huge, like 2 ga. but I bought the 4 ga. because it also looked thick at the time... After thinking about it more, I'm confident the 4 ga. should be fine though.
 

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So Im guessing it would be bad to leave that out and have the gound in the rear of the frame?
I dunno what would happen. It is a Hall effect current sensor and I assume they detect the current flowing through the negative battery cable and use that to control the field coils in the alternator to try to save a little gas when demand is low. So if current detected = 0 what happens?

1. alternator operates at a minimum level and battery discharges if you you have a high power stereo?

2. it throws a code?

Perhaps contact one of the high output alternator vendors and ask them about this issue. Or maybe the folks at Active Tuning might have looked into the issue of bypassing the sensor in connection with their ground kits.

If you have an assistant and a DC clamp meter, you could try replacing the factory negative battery cable with an ordinary cable and see what happens at various RPM with the stereo cranked by measuring current in the battery cables and the cable from the alternator. (obviously be careful to stay clear of moving belts & fan when the engine is running)
 

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Ok, just got done looking under my hood and my 2006 CC Does Not have a sensor on the ground, so I will just run a ground to my frame... And after inspecting the OEM ground cable, it does in fact appear to be 4 gauge as well... Just got my battery box in last night and will try and do this project tomorrow morning, since the rest of my weekend is all booked starting Fri morning... I have my digital camera charging and will take pictures as I do the relocation... here's my current OEM ground...
 

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