Looking for opinions on a great oil and specific weight to use in the Titan with cams. Any help is greatly appreciated! I was thinking a 5-40 as i go from daily driver to race truck all the time. I just want to protect this engine the best i can. Thanks
Best synthetic oil and weight for a cammed VK56
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I use the T as a DD and a drag truck. I've been using Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic (or what Mobil 1 considers fully synthetic) at 35k we pulled the heads for some work and everything looked great! Keep in mind that I change my oil at least every 2500 miles or whenever I feel the truck needs it.
I will be switching to all amsoil for motor, trans and diffs starting this race season. I like the fact that amsoil is a true class 5 synthetic, which is approved for aviation use.
The switch is more for piece of mind, knowing it's has the highest class rating as far as synthetics go. I'll stick with 5w30 for now as I haven't had any issues to warrant changing viscosities.
The other option I have been throwing around is using a straight 30 during the summer race season and switching back to 5w30 in the fall. I maybe wrong on this, but the base stock for 5w30 synth is 5 weight and the friction modifiers give it the 30w properties at running temps. so as the additives wear out the syn oils get thinner and thinner. The straight 30 would not thin out as fast and possibly protect the engine in a situation where the oil is a bit used and put under extreme use (racing). But I'm kind of superstitious about switching, as the truck is running very well right now.
I will be switching to all amsoil for motor, trans and diffs starting this race season. I like the fact that amsoil is a true class 5 synthetic, which is approved for aviation use.
The switch is more for piece of mind, knowing it's has the highest class rating as far as synthetics go. I'll stick with 5w30 for now as I haven't had any issues to warrant changing viscosities.
The other option I have been throwing around is using a straight 30 during the summer race season and switching back to 5w30 in the fall. I maybe wrong on this, but the base stock for 5w30 synth is 5 weight and the friction modifiers give it the 30w properties at running temps. so as the additives wear out the syn oils get thinner and thinner. The straight 30 would not thin out as fast and possibly protect the engine in a situation where the oil is a bit used and put under extreme use (racing). But I'm kind of superstitious about switching, as the truck is running very well right now.
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I use RP 5-30. Used in all my vehicles since day one. you can find it at performance shops for bout 8 bucks a qt. mobile 1is a great oil/standard oil in new Chevy's, my bro went to uti and the did a test with rp vs leading competitors and rp out performed. Amsoil is awesome but pricey. 0-40 might not be a great dd oil as I'm sure that gtr isn't exactly the grocery getter haha.
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Wait, wait, wait... Those 800 hp engines are going for what, an hour or two or three? You're pulling that sled for 30 seconds? I don't see the need for a 40 weight oil.
At the very least, pull a sample of your oil and have it tested. While I use AMSoil in just about everything (Titan, ATV, snowblower, etc) I would be willing to be that any synthetic 5w-30 will be optimal for your situation.
I would be a heck of a lot more concerned about the transmission than deviating from the OEM spec 5w-30 engine oil.
At the very least, pull a sample of your oil and have it tested. While I use AMSoil in just about everything (Titan, ATV, snowblower, etc) I would be willing to be that any synthetic 5w-30 will be optimal for your situation.
I would be a heck of a lot more concerned about the transmission than deviating from the OEM spec 5w-30 engine oil.
See i hate choices...You would think that JWT would recommend an oil that would be a perfect match for their cams...
Should i use a break in oil like Jon recommended for the first few hundred miles? Makes sense to me. I just dont want to hurt my cams.
Should i use a break in oil like Jon recommended for the first few hundred miles? Makes sense to me. I just dont want to hurt my cams.
im hearing that its not safe to break in cams on Synthetic oil? And i should be using conventional to let the cam break in before switching to synthetic. Im lost....UGH:frown:
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Just food for thought....your high end vehicles ie: corvette, porsche etc. come new from the factory with synthetics.
Very true but i also was told those engines are all started and undergo a break in before hitting the dealers?? Not sure if this is true.
I know that some lubricating systems are high volume while others are high pressure. It all depends on the mfg clearances. I have no idea what the Titan's system is, so I have stuck with 5w30 to keep the same cushion of oil between parts as Nissan engineers have called for.
I have run synthetic on my cams since day one, the only break in I did was let it idle for a while after install and I took it easy for a few hundred miles after that.
I guess if you really want to change viscosities, I would do an oil analysis using 0w40 and 5w30 and see what the reports say about the amount of engine wear that's occurring with each oil. Who knows maybe under your environmental and pulling conditions, the report may show that 0w40 is better suited for you or maybe 5w30 is ideal.
As far as a break in oil, I don't see a need unless the entire motor was rebuilt. Other than that, why protect the cams on breakin oil, all the while adding extra wear to your already broken in rings, bearings, gears, chains and such.
I have run synthetic on my cams since day one, the only break in I did was let it idle for a while after install and I took it easy for a few hundred miles after that.
I guess if you really want to change viscosities, I would do an oil analysis using 0w40 and 5w30 and see what the reports say about the amount of engine wear that's occurring with each oil. Who knows maybe under your environmental and pulling conditions, the report may show that 0w40 is better suited for you or maybe 5w30 is ideal.
As far as a break in oil, I don't see a need unless the entire motor was rebuilt. Other than that, why protect the cams on breakin oil, all the while adding extra wear to your already broken in rings, bearings, gears, chains and such.
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A lot of cars come with break in oils from the factory which is why they schedule an early oil change. My wrx did. I would think as long as you take it easy for a bit the cams should be fine. Break in oil is pretty cheap I believe so if you want give it a shot... I have always heard once you find the oil you want stick with it as its not good to change alot.
Just saw this on the Stillen SC thread. Check out yamahatitans post#2510.
His machinist recommended to not use thicker oil, bearing tolerances are already to tight.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/79604-stillen-supercharger-168.html
His machinist recommended to not use thicker oil, bearing tolerances are already to tight.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/79604-stillen-supercharger-168.html
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my opinion just like everyone else's here, I ran break in oil on my cams. Dino oil because it doesn't have additives and **** in it and has minerals that synthetic doesn't, cost the cam and intake springs in the break in oil, reason syn is not used because of glazing and issues with bucket to cam contact could POSSIBLY round out cam then u no longer have egg shape but a circular cam, this subject is an opinion based subject because some have their beliefs well mines been proven time and time again in my motorcycles and cars with multiple builds I have done and currently my T, I am running 5 40 castrol edge and my truck loves it and I trust it completely, mike runs it in his truck and proof right there it's a damn good oil if u don't believe me his truck has 185k on it and he was never easy on it....break in with 5 30, a lot of this is based off of our engines having such tight tolerances.
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The reason why you want to use dino oil to break in your new cams or anything new for that matter is the dino oil absorbs into the metal and creates a better lubricating surface to were synthetic is to slippery and wont absorb into the new metals. I worked at a jet maintenance facility at scottsdale airport and the mechanics would use mineral oil to break-in the piston prop engines after a rebuild or new engine install.
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