Due to the mileage you have, I'd be real careful spending my money. Powerstop is good stuff, EBC..good. Hawke...good. I'd be after value, bang for the buck rather than the cool factor of the best and greatest parts (spelled more 'expensive').
Due to the miles your dealing with....it could be much more than brake rotors causing your steering wheel wiggle. First...if the steering wheel is shaking but the foot pedal isn't pulsing, then there's more going on than rotors..but to be sure....go to Harbor Frt and get a dial indicator and an indicator stand. Jack the truck up and put the indicator set up so that you're checking each rotor, one at a time for run-out. More than 5 thou is a warp.
Now, before I replaced anything, I'd pull the rotors and take them to the auto supply that has a machine shop and have them check the rotors for cutting and dressing to see if they can take the warp out. They can do that at the counter...for free. Prob about 10 bucks rotor and one day if they can be refreshed. Re-install after they are back in spec. Toss if not.
Check the pads .... wearing on the inside pad faster than the outside pad....piston seize. Outer pad wearing faster....guides and pins worn out. Same in and out...new hardware with new pads.
Now...stop and inventory where you are at.....if you need to buy rotors because the ones you have can't be dressed...the best bang for the buck...Brake Motive on Ebay. Their rotors will last longer than you'll own that truck. Drilled and slotted F&R. Don't buy their pads if you want to stop on a dime. Get to Autozone and buy the semi-metalics they have for the Titan. Cheap and they have as much bite as Hawkes do. If you need calipers, I haven't seen anything that beats the ones Brake Motive has (bang for the buck again). It's all about the cost of the stop. They sell kits or bits...your choice, but I can't say I've found more value. Are there 'better' out there....probably, but what I've told you to do will stop better than stock. Buy the expensive stuff if you are going racing, or have more money than you need.
A tip that most fleet managers know from experience....rotors don't warp from heat. They warp from incorrect wheel torque and/or improper mount. Use a torque wrench and clean the crud from the hub before mounting the rotor. I've seen wheels come off miles down the road after mounting.....the rust breaks down and the lugs come loose and .........it's not pretty.
Lastly, when you're all done....bleed the brakes!!!~!~
Go for a ride and run in the pads so they're set to the rotors. There should be NO flutter sensation in the brake pedal. Once you've done that...if you still have wiggle....control arm bushings are most like likely the culprit. Possibly upper ball too. If so..replace the whole arm with new bits pre-installed.
Due to the miles your dealing with....it could be much more than brake rotors causing your steering wheel wiggle. First...if the steering wheel is shaking but the foot pedal isn't pulsing, then there's more going on than rotors..but to be sure....go to Harbor Frt and get a dial indicator and an indicator stand. Jack the truck up and put the indicator set up so that you're checking each rotor, one at a time for run-out. More than 5 thou is a warp.
Now, before I replaced anything, I'd pull the rotors and take them to the auto supply that has a machine shop and have them check the rotors for cutting and dressing to see if they can take the warp out. They can do that at the counter...for free. Prob about 10 bucks rotor and one day if they can be refreshed. Re-install after they are back in spec. Toss if not.
Check the pads .... wearing on the inside pad faster than the outside pad....piston seize. Outer pad wearing faster....guides and pins worn out. Same in and out...new hardware with new pads.
Now...stop and inventory where you are at.....if you need to buy rotors because the ones you have can't be dressed...the best bang for the buck...Brake Motive on Ebay. Their rotors will last longer than you'll own that truck. Drilled and slotted F&R. Don't buy their pads if you want to stop on a dime. Get to Autozone and buy the semi-metalics they have for the Titan. Cheap and they have as much bite as Hawkes do. If you need calipers, I haven't seen anything that beats the ones Brake Motive has (bang for the buck again). It's all about the cost of the stop. They sell kits or bits...your choice, but I can't say I've found more value. Are there 'better' out there....probably, but what I've told you to do will stop better than stock. Buy the expensive stuff if you are going racing, or have more money than you need.
A tip that most fleet managers know from experience....rotors don't warp from heat. They warp from incorrect wheel torque and/or improper mount. Use a torque wrench and clean the crud from the hub before mounting the rotor. I've seen wheels come off miles down the road after mounting.....the rust breaks down and the lugs come loose and .........it's not pretty.
Lastly, when you're all done....bleed the brakes!!!~!~
Go for a ride and run in the pads so they're set to the rotors. There should be NO flutter sensation in the brake pedal. Once you've done that...if you still have wiggle....control arm bushings are most like likely the culprit. Possibly upper ball too. If so..replace the whole arm with new bits pre-installed.
