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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, guys! Haven't been on the forum for a good while. Life is busy but that's a good thing. So I'm coming up on needing new tires, which is obviously the perfect time to lift the truck and go bigger. Right now I'm stock 2011 Pro4X. I'd like to go from the 275/70R18 size I've been running up to 295/70R18. Now, based on some conversations I've had with folks along the way, I'm pretty confident these will fit with a 2.5-3" front, 2-2.5" rear lift. I have a pair of PRG UCAs which will be going on the front, coupled with some 5100s on the middle perch and 1.5-2" spacers (haven't decided yet how high I want to lift it). Now, that's all good. On the rear, I'm going to go with a total of 2-2.5" rear lift using blocks. Pretty simple so far. But then I get to rear shocks. Based on the lift amount, I'm going to need 5125s, but I find two different 5125s which are the correct length and travel. The difference is shock valving. One is 255/70 valving, the other is 170/60. I have an understanding of the relative difference between the two (the first one is firmer than the second one on both compression and rebound), but I'm not sure which is appropriate for our trucks. I can't find anything on valving for the OEM replacement 5100 to compare, or I'd just go with whatever was closest to that. I know a lot of guys are running 5125s on their lifted Ts, so tell me which part number you're running and whether you feel like they're too soft, just right, or too firm.

Also, I'm having some trouble finding the bushing kit to get the right sleeve size. I can source the bushings, but not the sleeves, and nowhere seems to sell the bushing kit anymore. Any leads/advice on this? If I can't find the kit, I'm going to have to source some 3/4" .095 wall chromoly tubing and make my own, but I'd rather buy the kit if it's available. Nowhere local has the chromoly tubing, and I don't want to spend $50 on a couple of feet of it shipped to my door.
 

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Sounds like you have a great plan for the front. I am excited to see pics.

I dont know the answers to your questions about the rear shocks. My truck has Rough Country 2 inch blocks and the corresponding lifted rear shocks. Its rides good. If worse comes to worse, order the lifted rear shocks from Rough Country and forget the valving and bushing problems.
 

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I ran Bilstein shocks on my Titan for a while when my SAW shocks were being rebuilt. The difference between the two was minimal. I was not lifted so I used a stock height shock. I would look at the valving spec of the stock height shock and use that on your extended length shocks. If you deviate too far from the base valving, you may regret the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's precisely what I'm trying to figure out, HRTKD. Can't find valving specs on the OEM Ranchos, nor the OEM-replacement 5100s from Bilstein. If I had even an inkling to go on, I could work it out. I sent a request to Bilstein about it. We'll see if they respond with any guidance, or if someone else on TitanTalk does.

And it's looking like the bushings (or at least the sleeves) are a lost cause short of paying $50 for a length of tubing and cutting them myself.
 

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Give me the part numbers for the two Rancho shocks you're looking at along with the valving question. I might have a contact at Rancho that can help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What shows up as OEM fit is either the RS5304 or RS55394, depending on where I look. Extended and compressed lengths on either of these appear to work for stock height.
 

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What shows up as OEM fit is either the RS5304 or RS55394, depending on where I look. Extended and compressed lengths on either of these appear to work for stock height.
I sent of an email to my contact. I'll let you know when they respond.
 

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First off, my contact said that Rancho won't publish valving specs, claiming that it's their "secret sauce". Otherwise, here's what they had to say:

Ok the RS5000 series shocks are WAY softer ride feel than Bilstein. If he wants a firmer ride then the high gas charged Billie is the way to go.
The RS5000X is the shock i would choose. Have him compare the specs of the shocks to his ProX4. The Pro is a bit taller than "stock'.
I'm not aware of the Pro4x version being any taller than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's an odd response. First, the Pro4X has Ranchos from the factory, which I believe are RS5000s, but I am not 100% sure. Definitely Rancho, though. Second, I'm wondering which Bilstein he's referring to, since there are two different valvings available.

And you're correct - the Pro4X doesn't have any different ride height than any 4wd Titan of the same model year. I know because I compared several when I bought mine. Bought the Pro4X because I like the monotone look and it had the options I wanted and the color I like.

Hopefully Bilstein will respond, or someone who ran/runs the 5125s will respond. Thanks for your help so far.
 

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I run the 255/70 valving on my Frontier. I have a rear plate bumper with dual swing outs, full skids and sliders, and dual add a leaf spring packs, so I'm probably pretty close to your weight/spring rate (maybe even a bit heavier). The Bilsteins ride awesome, and I'd recommend the 255/70 for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, FinalFrontier. Good intel. If you're riding them in a Fronty which is likely slightly less weight even with your extras, and they're comfortable, they should be good on the Titan, I'd guess.
 

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Hey, I have a 2011 Pro-4X. I ran the 2" PRG Coil Spacers up front & 1.5" PRG Blocks in the rear with no UCA's and installed a set of 295/80/18's (34.4") on my stock wheels. It fits perfectly... Almost. You do have to remove the front mudflaps. Other than that, no rubbing @ lock to lock. Tiny bit of rubbing at full stroke lock to lock that's barely noticeable. These are pretty stout A/T's with a good amount of bitters on the side of the tire.

I now have a Rough Country 6" Lift, SPC UCA's, C-30 Leaf Sping Packs (3.5" of lift) paired with the same PRG 1.5" Lift Blocks (3.5" + 1.5" = 5" rear lift,) PRG Driveshaft Spacer, Kicker Bars, PRG Extended Adjustable Sway Bar End Links, Bilstein 5100's up front (on setting 0 for no additional lift; I wanted to retain the best ride quality after upgrading to 5100's from one of my Rancho's being shot & the other on its way out & severely underperforming) & Bilstein 5165 Remote Resevoir Shocks on the rear. I don't need the SPC UCA's, unless I buy adjustable coilovers & add in an additional 1"-3" of lift.

As for the valving & different part numbers for the same length.. You want the 170/60 valving, not the 255/70 valving. I was told this by Greg @ PRG & Chas @ TAP also suggest this. Honestly, I'm glad it's not any stiffer. I haven't towed with it yet, but with an empty bed, it's a tad on the stiff side in the rear.
The first number is for compression, the second is for rebound. It equates to how much force it requires to compress the shock on compression & how much force it takes to extend the shock on rebound. So lower the number, the less force is required to compress & lower the second number, the kess force is required to extend the shock.
Like I said, with an empty bed, I definitely did not find it lacking stiffness. Tad on the stiff side, but I JUST installed the shocks. I havent went but 5 miles on them & have been driving gently since I need an alignment after my lift.

If you're wanting the 5125's, you want these:
These are for 4WD models with 2-4" rear lift.


Here are your bushings:


I highly recommend going for the 5125's over the 5100's. It's not that much more for a better shock. I decided to go for the 5165 Remote Reservoir Shocks over the 5100 & 5125's.

I love Remote Reservoir Shocks. They don't suffer from aeration (overheating) & cavitation. Aeration is when the oil in the shock basically foams due to the heat generated by the shock, turning the kinetic energy of suspension movement into heat energy. The result is that the shock loses its ability to dampen. This allows that crazy spring motion to run unabated. This not only creates a bouncy ride but also scary handling.

Remote-reservoir shocks can help solve this problem. They're designed with an external reservoir that increases fluid capacity. This increase in capacity helps lower fluid temperature, thus offering the ability to blast over rough terrain without experiencing shock fade due to overheating.

The 5165's may be a little overkill for most, but when I say most.. I'm referring to people with "mall queens" aka; people who have pretty slightly lifted or lifted pickups that don't go off-road.

The 5165's arent crazy high though. I only spent only $177 per shock, so $354 for the pair from Summit Racing and made them send me the metric bushings after I played dumb, but I knew they were sold separately & came with 5/8" bushings. I told them, "Your rep told me they fit when I ordered them." Not really true, since they're more of a custom shock & I checked out online. Honestly, they should come with the right bushings. Thats my opinion. Atleast now if I buy a GM or Ram truck next, I have a brand new set of bushings in my toolbox.

The other great thing about the 5165's is that they are rebuildable & can be custom valved. So if you feel like you need different valving or say you even switch vehicles and want to use the high quality remote reservoir shocks on your new truck or SUV, like I plan to do when I trade mine in (I plan on putting on my Rough Country shocks that came with thr lift kit among many other things on my truck like the SPC UCA's & sell them) and say the new truck or SUBLV is better suited for different calving, you can have it done and since its being opened up already, they are automatically rebuilt.

I need to take pictures of my truck as it sits after my lift. I'll try to remember to take pictures & post them. But for now, all i have are pictures with just my 2"/2" lift with my 295/70/18's.

Oh, if you're close, I'm selling my Coopers. Only have like, 1500 miles on them. Comes with lifetime free rotation and I bought the Roadside Replacement Warranty all from Discount Tires. Ran me like, $1400 after tax (I have the invoice & Replacement Certificate filed away) & I traveled 4 1/2 hours just to see this Sales Manager as I always get my tires from him because he cuts me a hell of a deal.

I'm upgrading to a set of the exact same Cooper Discoverer ST MAX's, but in 35'sx12.50 & 20" rims. These are about the biggest set of tires you can fit on a mini-lifted Titan. Really fiils up the wheel wells nicely. I would've went with 305/65's or 315/60 or 325/60's, but I wanted better fuel economy from a slightly narrower tire & wanted the hifhest tire height to width combo ratio I could get.

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First off, my contact said that Rancho won't publish valving specs, claiming that it's their "secret sauce". Otherwise, here's what they had to say:



I'm not aware of the Pro4x version being any taller than stock.
The Pro-4X is taller than the 4WD.
Pro-4X is 1/2" taller than the 4WD & 1" taller than the 2WD. Hence why the maximum Coil Spacer on Pro-4X's is 1.5", 2" on 4WD and 2.5" on 2WD's. The Pro-4X has a stiffer coil spring than the 4WD & 2WD Titan's. Thats why people upgrade to the Pro-4X coil springs from their 2WD and even 4WD trim Titan's.
You can use 2" or 2.5" coil spacers if you have UCA's.

And I believe the rear leaf springs are slightly taller on the Pro-4X than the 4WD & 2WD as it makes sense if the front is taller, then the rear should be equally taller.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Pro-4X is taller than the 4WD.
Pro-4X is 1/2" taller than the 4WD & 1" taller than the 2WD. Hence why the maximum Coil Spacer on Pro-4X's is 1.5", 2" on 4WD and 2.5" on 2WD's. The Pro-4X has a stiffer coil spring than the 4WD & 2WD Titan's. Thats why people upgrade to the Pro-4X coil springs from their 2WD and even 4WD trim Titan's.
You can use 2" or 2.5" coil spacers if you have UCA's.

And I believe the rear leaf springs are slightly taller on the Pro-4X than the 4WD & 2WD as it makes sense if the front is taller, then the rear should be equally taller.
I don't think this is correct. The varied "level" heights without resorting to aftermarket UCAs are delineated by year and drive, not package. The guideline is pretty much this:

'04-'07 2wd: 2.5"
'04-'07 4wd: 2"
'08+ 2wd: 2"
'08+ 4wd: 1.5"

There's a pretty exhaustive write-up on the forum in a sticky, here, about this.

Now, there is some truck-to-truck production variation, so in some cases a truck may tolerate a little more or less lift in the front in terms of spacers than a seemingly identical truck of the same year/drive. For instance, I remember seeing a few people having CBC with 1.5" of lift on later model Gen1 Titans. But that was about production variation.

I also know when I was shopping for my T, back in 2011, I measured the Pro4X and an SL sitting side by side on the dealer lot, while I was choosing between the two. Ended up with the Pro4X because it had the options on my "have to have" list, some of my "want to have" list, and was in a color I liked. But there was zero difference on the tape measure in terms of ride height measuring ground to wheelwell lip, aside from a slight difference in tire diameter. Once I factored out half the tire diameter difference, the measurements were dead equal.

Thanks for the info on the shocks. I was able to contact Mike at ORW and he can get the bushings and the shocks, so I'll be placing that order shortly. Just need to get my remaining lift pieces acquired and find time to install. Then off to the shop for tires and a final alignment (which will no doubt be more precise than my string alignment in the driveway).
 
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