Borla XR-1?

TheHops · 2016-04-10

Quick question. I'm considering changing up my exhaust setup (one final time hopefully). I have JBA long tubes, catless bpipes and an MBRP Pro Series 304ss catback. I was thinking of swapping out the muffler and tip in favor of a Borla XR-1 with a dumped tip over the axle for a cleaner look and a deeper tone. My question: Is there any difference in sound/performance between the oval (40944) XR-1 and the round (40085) XR-1? Both are 304 stainless, and both are single 3-in/3-out. I was under the assumption that shorter mufflers will be louder. That being said, the oval is listed as 16" x 4.5"(narrow part of oval) x 7.88"(thick part of oval), and the round is listed as 15" x 5" diameter round. Any thoughts on differences, or anyone with firsthand knowledge on either one? I don't anticipate space will be an issue, so no worries there.

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gonfishin

· #21 · Apr 11, 2016

I will be honest. I didnt loose much tone with the UQ. Just deepened the tone. And the drone is 95% gone now. No more headaches on the thruway lol.

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SouthernLion

· #22 · Apr 11, 2016

TheHops said:
I ordered my UQ, but sent it back before I even put it on. I liked the sound of my current setup too much, drone/CIS and all so I just figured why take the chance. And it is my only (4 wheeled) vehicle, so that says a lot. It just sounds mean as hell. (On that note...my UpRev gets here TOMORROW!!! Can't wait to hear it after that!)

Well, I guess the clear solution is that I'm going to need to stalk you and stake out your vehicle until you start it up to drive somewhere, so I can listen and compare...

Haha. Need to find some time to meet up. I know I always like to see something in person if possible before going with a particular setup.

CURRENT 2018 Charcoal CC SL Midnight Edition
Interior: Weathertech Floor Mats, 5% Tint All Around, 50% Tint on Windshield
Misc: Rigid Front Grille w/ Rigid Midnight 20" Light Bar, Tinted Tail Lights, UnderCover Ultra Flex Tonneau Cover, 50 cal Stubby Antenna

SOLD 2017 Silver CC Pro4x

SOLD 2015 White CC SV 4x4
Suspension/Wheels & Tires: ProComp 6" Lift, Icon Bracket Lift Coilovers, Icon Rear Shocks, Fuel Octane 20x9 +1 offset, Toyo Open Country M/T 35's, Dirt King Heimed UCA's, PRG Ext Sway Bar End Links, CJD Racing Traction Bars
Performance: AirRaid MXP, Titanium Ceramic Coated JBA LT's, Cajun Catted Bpipes, Cajun Custom Catback, Borla XR1 40944, Uprev, 3.73 Front & Rear Gears
Interior: Weathertech Floor Mats, 20% 3M Tinted Windows
Misc: Northern Tool Black Toolbox, Royalty Core Grille, 50 cal Stubby Antenna

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citron

· #23 · Apr 11, 2016

TheHops said:
GalaxyPro4X11 said:

Your going to love your truck all over again once your tuned. I look forward to it for you lol

Click to expand...

I'm a little bit too excited. If I wasn't working night shifts, I would be awake first thing in the morning sitting in front of my apartment door in a lawn chair, with a pen in hand ready for the signature. I swear if I don't see this package tomorrow, I will find this mailman...

My major concern is my laptop, honestly. The battery is pretty much shot on it. When it's not plugged in, it only lasts 15-20 minutes. I hope that's at least enough juice to do a few runs at a time...because I really don't want to have to go buy a new computer, though if I have to I will lol.

If you end up needing a new laptop, I suggest Newegg. You can get a refurbished laptop from there for a few hundred. I have bought my last two from them. Or see if you can buy a replacement battery for your laptop, but you definitely don't want it dying in the middle of a flash. I have tuned, overclocked, and flashed bios on enough computers to know this much.

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GalaxyPro4X11

· #24 · Apr 11, 2016

It take2 two minutes max to flash your rom

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TheHops

Discussion Starter · #25 · Apr 11, 2016

Pale Rider said:
Hops, you def don`t want to mess with the tuning, downloading, or data logging with a poor battery in the laptop.

during the downloads you can plug your laptop from a power chord from the house. Maybe you can squeek in a data log run before the battery craps out. The Titans electronics are ultra sensitive to voltage loss or spikes...
whatever you do, don`t ever lose the connectivity while you are downloading a Tune.

this is important to have a good running laptop, or reliable laptop when tuning the truck...
a good investment in a new laptop will come in handy for future tuning should you need it...

in the end, you won`t be able to wipe that sheet eatin grin off your mug! :big_grin:

Yeah I was thinking about that too. I meant mainly for the purposes of logging, since I won't be near an outlet. I'll just be sure to get a full charge before I go to do anything critical.

I'll start with just plugging my cable in to get the info and see how it goes from there haha.

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

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nightowl

· #26 · Apr 14, 2016

The UQ will kill the Borla Drone.

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TheHops

Discussion Starter · #27 · Apr 15, 2016

nightowl said:
The UQ will kill the Borla Drone.

JBA LT > catless bpipes > 2.5 inch piping > 10 inch long y pipe > 40944 xr-1 > 3 inch UQ > 3.5 inch exit. Sounds like a solid setup?

Also, does anyone have experience with this y-pipe? I've been told vibrant is the go to but, it's so expensive in comparison. It's 304 stainless and seems to have reasonable length for the gasses to merge before the muffler.

Speaking of the y-pipe, is there any difference between welding it in closer to the cats, versus closer to the muffler? I've heard both...

:nerd: 2010 Pro-4x CC [Snoopy] :nerd:
Suspension: 6 inch ProComp, ATX AX181 teflons, 305/70R18 Cooper STT Pros, ICONs on all corners, DK UCAs, DK tie rod ends, sway bar delete.
Power: UpRev, Airaid MXP CAI, JBA LTs, Cajun resonated bpipes, SummitRacing y-pipe, Borla 40085, UQ res.
Body: Leer 100RCC (reinforced), RKSport ram-air hood, FabFours premium front bumper, Rigid grille, Bushwacker smooth flares, Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps, spray in bed liner.
Roof: Thule tracks, frontrunner roof racks. Front: 40" bar, L/R facing 10" light bars, MAXTRAX mounts, 20gal spare fuel brackets. Rear: axe/shovel, CVT RTT, 10" rearward light bar
Lighting: Full internal/external LED swap. Front: 40"/20" Amber/White LED bars, two 3" A/W pods. Sides/Rear: Three 10" white bars.
Misc: Mile Marker SEC9.5 (ES), Cobra 75WXST, 600W PSW Inverter, ARB CKMTA12, WeatherTech floor liners, DU-HA rear underseat tub, AVS in-channel visors, stubby antenna, seat mounted fire extinguisher, cajun axle vent.
Pending Install: Fab fours premium rear bumper, CJD trac bars, C-30s, DK variable height shackles.

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JauntyBishop

· #28 · Apr 18, 2016

Here is mine for reference.

DTLTs, 2.5'' catless B pipes into 2.5''/3.5'' Cajun Y pipe. Single 3.5'' piping with Borla XR1 40396 with Vibrant bottle reso dumped pre axle. Loud, drones like hell but it sounds good.

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JauntyBishop

· #29 · Apr 18, 2016

2

TheHops said:
JBA LT > catless bpipes > 2.5 inch piping > 10 inch long y pipe > 40944 xr-1 > 3 inch UQ > 3.5 inch exit. Sounds like a solid setup?

Also, does anyone have experience with this y-pipe? I've been told vibrant is the go to but, it's so expensive in comparison. It's 304 stainless and seems to have reasonable length for the gasses to merge before the muffler.

Speaking of the y-pipe, is there any difference between welding it in closer to the cats, versus closer to the muffler? I've heard both...

This is not a good Y pipe design.

This is a merge collector(Burns) Vibrant is used in the Cajun Y pipe kits. Vibrant is a near identical clone to Burns Stainless. There is a reason Jeff uses this product because it is the best available for the titan application. Save you're monies and pay to play :smile: Its worth it in the long run.

Granted I don't think anyone can match the miter skills of those by Burns Stainless.

However, Vibrant makes a noticeable difference in sound and performance over that summit style and (first hand experience) with those Flowmaster Y pipes.

You get what you pay for....

Also, take some time to read this below, it will help shed some light on Y pipe design.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...es-merge-collectors-pipe-size-great-info.html

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